Getting around on Lombok
Author: Shirlz
22 October 2021
There are a few tiny kiosks on Gili Gede where I am moored at Marina del Ray but major stocking up has to be done on Lombok itself. If I make an early start I can row my dinghy across to the beach on the mainland before the wind comes up and walk or catch a tuk-tuk to the small town of Pelangan about 2 kilometers inland. The main attraction is the big market for fresh fruit and vegetables.
I was there on Monday morning and the crowds were almost overwhelming. The narrow road absolutely crammed with motor bikes, most with 2 or more people and bags and bundles. The women modestly covered with flapping long sarongs and hijabs. The heat is intense. In the shade of the market narrow walkways separate the stalls laden with an amazing range of stuff from eggs, meat, fruit and vegetables, to clothing, kitchenware, machetes and tools. Herbs, spices, sweets, rice in open baskets. Everyone seems to be talking. I am trying to learn a little Indonesian and manage to catch an occasional word. Some wear masks but social distancing is quite impossible. Only cash is acceptable and the nearest ATM is in Sekotong about 20 minutes away by car.
The nearest supermarket is in Mataram about an hour away by car. I have been able to share the trip a few times with other yotties and it makes for an exciting day. The narrow winding road follows the coast and passes through a few small villages. Most of the traffic is 2 or 3-wheeled with a few carts drawn by ponies. Cars are the exception. The pace is frenetic. (And people think crossing an ocean is dangerous!)
On one of the trips, when our shopping was done, we visited a Hindu temple. A guide showed us around after tying yellow sashes around our waists. He kept up a running commentary which may have been very interesting and informative, but my hearing and his accent conspired to make it totally unintelligible.
No matter, I enjoyed just tagging along behind the others and looking about at the sometimes grotesquely weird statues guarding doorways and stairs and the elaborately carved and colourful shrines. It made a wonderful contrast to the vanilla flavoured shopping mall.
Another expedition was organised by Jürg whom I met in Savusavu on his boat Aurelia. This time it was to see a waterfall, or air terjun, Benang Kelambu, right in the centre of Lombok near the Rinjani volcano. Once again we had to have a guide and it was a beautiful walk through the jungle to reach the series of spectacular falls.
I had a swim in one of the pools at the final set of falls and the cool water was wonderfully refreshing. On the way back the path reached a track and a woman on a scooter was there and offered to give me a ride back to the entrance for a small fee. I would have been quite happy to walk but it looked as if it could be fun and I agreed. The track was steep and rutted and the ride turned out to be more exciting than I had expected, but what a thrill!
I waited for the rest of the party to plod their weary way back and we had lunch at a small restaurant in the park. Before we had finished eating, the clouds rolled over and there was a tropical deluge complete with ear-shattering thunder. Could this be the start of the rainy season?
But Jürg had yet another experience planned and off we were driven to Sukarara, a village where traditional weaving is done. Two women were seated at looms weaving busily away as we watched. Finished lengths of the intricately patterned cloth were displayed all round. We were whisked into a showroom and dressed up in fancy sarongs and sashes. The men all looked very dashing in their exotic gear. Many pictures were taken.
Another small island, Gili Asahan, is a short sail away. It is a better place for swimming and snorkelling with much less boat traffic. I spent a few days there moored near a beautiful ‘Eco Lodge’. The shore is crowded with outrigger boats waiting for visitors, but apart from a handful of yachts there is hardly anyone around.
I spent a few hours walking all the way around the island, deserted beaches, empty resort hotels, goats and cows. No roads or cars, just a sandy track. Quite blissful.
