Leaving Livingston
Author: Shirlz
The chain and anchor took a few days longer than promised to arrive back from being re-galvanised and I was getting anxious to leave. At last, after a bit of a scare when the wrong chain was delivered, it was back on board and we were ready to go.
I had enjoyed my relaxing time at Mar Marine and it was difficult to say goodbye to all the people who had been so friendly and helpful. It’s definitely a place I’d like to come back to if I’m ever in this part of the world again.
A final walk across the bridge to Fronteras for last minute shopping and at 10 o’clock Henry helped me to warp out of my slightly tricky berth. It was a cool and cloudy day. Very different to the hot sweaty weather that I arrived in. Motoring across El Golfete, I had to be careful to avoid the many fishing nets. Local fishermen in small dugout cayucas showed in dark silhouette against the misty water. For a while the drizzle turned into heavy rain and I was glad to be motoring as it meant I could leave the awning up which helped to keep me dry.
Almost too soon, we arrived at the entrance to Texan Bay just before the start of the canyon. I thought it would be a good place to wait for a day or two until the tide would be right for crossing the bar.
Wednesday, Dec 3, 2014
Texan Bay, also known as Cayo Quemado, turned out to be a really beautiful place. Very protected and plenty of room to anchor with a small, friendly marina offering meals, and free wifi. I was enchanted by the lovely surroundings and my only regret was that I hadn’t come here sooner.
I had a slow, lazy breakfast this morning before getting the dinghy down to row around the bay. I was surprised to see that friends of mine who had also arrived yesterday on two separate catamarans had already left. I worked out that the tides would be more in my favour for crossing the bar on Friday and felt justified in lingering for one more day.
My exploratory row took me up a narrow creek fringed with water lilies. Southern jacanas stepped delicately across the lily pads on their astonishingly long toes and when I approached too closely, flew off displaying lemon yellow wings contrasting with their russet brown and black bodies.
The marina buildings extend over the swampy ground on posts with wooden walkways between the cabins. Mangroves and palm trees and beautiful flowers. I began to wonder how I was going to adjust to life outside the tropics as I follow my plan to head north. Back on board, I watched as a couple expertly used a throw-net from their cayuca. A little later, with perfect timing, a delicate Mayan woman paddled up in her tiny dugout with two beautiful children and sold me tortillas filled with refried black beans for lunch.
In the evening I rowed across to the palm-thatched bar and joined some of the locals for a beer.
Thursday, Dec 4, 2014
I left quite early and motored downriver to Livingston. The current was quite strong and with the engine just ticking over we were doing 5 knots. A family in a big dugout cayuca were paddling ahead of me going just as fast.
Mangrove swallows flitted about inspecting the boat. Frigate birds swooped and had aerial battles with each other over their prey. I had to keep a fairly watchful eye on the echo sounder as the depth in the river can vary quite alarmingly. At one tight hairpin bend I had to really hug the shore to find enough water. The dugout family let me inch ahead of them before the bend and smiled and waved their encouragement. The vertical, jungle-clad walls of the canyon were as impressive as ever. Traffic was increasing as we neared Livingston. Lanchas roared past in both directions carrying tourists all dutifully wearing life jackets. The Maya quietly paddled their cayucas in the shadows cast by overhanging trees along the river banks.
I anchored a little way upriver from the main jetty where it was quieter and walked into town to clear out with Customs and Immigration. It took about an hour and, mercifully, I wasn’t clapped in irons for having let my visa expire by two weeks. I spent the last of my Quetzales on a can of WD40 and some tomatoes. The last bit of change going to the chap who was ensuring the safety of my dinghy.
As I was having my sundowner in the cockpit I watched as the fishing fleet left with the evening tide. Many small boats mostly with just a single all round white light, some with no lights at all. As they moved off into the darkness they looked like a swarm of fireflies. Two yachts also decided on a night-time departure. I was happier to wait till the morning.
A bit later that night the shore was ablaze with a magnificent fireworks display. I’m not sure what the occasion was.
Friday, Dec 5, 2014
The morning tide was conveniently timed and I cleared the bar comfortably at 06:30. The wind was light westerly and I could cut the engine and sail along on the smooth sea at 4 knots. It was great to be sailing again.
By 14:30 I was in Belize, the only boat anchored in a well-protected, uninhabited bay called New Haven. I had my first swim in the sea for more than six months. Pelicans, Frigate birds, dolphins and a very weird-looking jelly fish. No wifi. I decided to stay put for the weekend.
Monday, Dec 8, 2014
It was a rainy weekend and I was able to top up all the water tanks and my motley collection of containers. At one point, between showers, I was taking a look around when a swarm of literally thousands of swallows moved about above the trees soaring and thermaling high up to cloud base. Swooping and swirling back down and about en masse. It was an amazing sight. More like a swarm of bees than birds.
I left on Monday morning and was able to sail most of the way in a light SE wind. Unfortunately Placencia is wide open to the south and an uncomfortable swell was rolling in when I arrived, making the anchorage really unpleasant. About 7 other boats were there, rolling and bucking and straining at their anchor lines. I dropped the anchor and tried to settle in but after about half an hour decided to try getting into the sheltered lagoon behind the town. The chart showed a navigable entrance and there were no ominous warnings about needing local knowledge so I crept cautiously in and was able to find smooth water and a peaceful place to spend the night.
December 14th, 2014 at 18:08
What a fantastic blog you have! Thanks for all the effort put into sharing such a valuable info and all those great experiences. How I wish I had found it earlier, especially since I spent ten years in Bahia de Todos los Santos. I would have LOVED to sail my tiny catboat along Speedwell and beg to be invited aboard such a cool boat. Take care!
December 15th, 2014 at 07:56
Hi Shirlz , envy all over my face 🙂
I presume you are happy to be leaving – next comms will be after the festive season , so have an excellent sail, with lotsa fair winds , and may the seas be gentle.
Thanks for the email – big grinz
Thinking of you
Kris