On the Rio
Author: Shirlz
Monday, 16 June 2014
Being tied up in a marina is not really my favourite thing. I long to be anchored in the cooler breezes in a small cove, free to move along, without any fuss and bother, to the next interesting spot. But I feel unhappy about using the engine with the faulty water pump and have decided to stay stuck here until it is fixed. No luck with the repair of the old pump so far but a little research has turned up a small business that handles the shipping of imported parts and equipment. It seems straightforward and I need to get a reel of rope as well to replace the rigging so that’s what I plan to do.
The dock that I was tied to when I arrived is close to big trees draped impenetrably with thick creepers and dense undergrowth over shallow water. Very beautiful but alive with jungle creatures all looking for food. Mice, rats, lizards, iguanas, snakes, tarantulas, birds and insects of all varieties. My easily accessible boat was a natural target. Mosquito nets kept the small bugs at bay but I was plagued by rats and mice.
Traps were handed out but I couldn’t bring myself to use one. Then one night, in the pitch dark something woke me and as I groped around trying to find a light, a heavy, spiky body ran across me. I screamed thinking it must be a giant rat. Sleep was banished for the rest of the night. Next morning, bleary eyed and weary, I tracked down Marlene who runs the marina and told her of my distress.
She immediately recognised my description of the spiky legs running over me and said it must have been an iguana. I was stunned and more than a little intrigued. An iguana! A big one too. She immediately suggested moving Speedwell away from the trees where invasion might be less likely. Some marineros gave me a hand and we were soon settled in a more sterile berth. Unwilling to dispose of a trapped and agitated rat as the first job every morning, I have opted instead to close everything up at night so they can’t come below. With the help of an electric fan I get a peaceful nights sleep.
It’s an easy walk across the bridge to the little town of Fronteras, also commonly referred to as Rio Dulce. There is one main road leading directly off the bridge and a constant rumbling stream of trucks heavily laden with logs, cattle bound for the abattoir, massive articulated fuel tankers and the like, which makes walking along the narrow road quite challenging.
Whatever crumbling strip of pavement is available is totally taken up with little kiosks selling everything from mangos to cell phones. Apart from the big trucks most of the traffic consists of motor scooters and tuk-tuks.
Amidst the noisy confusion it’s business as usual. Dainty Mayan women dressed in their colourful traditional skirts and lacy embroidered tops calmly do their shopping with one or more children carefully herded out of the path of the giant wheels of the trucks. Music blasts deafeningly from a stall selling CD’s and DVD movies. It’s mango season and they are on sale everywhere. The going price (for gringos) seems to be 3 for 5 Quetzales – about 65c US. And they are the beautiful big, juicy, sweet and stringless type. Pineapples, bananas, limes and a variety of avocados are also on offer as well as a wonderful variety of beans, herbs, chillies and spices. I enjoy just strolling along absorbing the atmosphere.
As I don’t have a fridge on board and enjoy fresh fruit and vegetables, the walk to the shops is a daily exercise. From the bridge there is a magnificent view of the river and the jungle stretching to the horizon. The only visible road is the one that approaches the bridge and continues through the town. The river is the only means of reaching most places and there are many ‘lanchas’ motoring up and down as well as the traditional cayucos and, of course, the gringo yachts. If I have had a more than usually successful shopping spree I hop into a tuk-tuk for the trip back to the marina.
June 18th, 2014 at 05:29
Looks amazing!
June 20th, 2014 at 05:37
Ahh – the joys of a marina – hopefully the people you meet make it worthwhile , and the waterpump is sorted OK ….
As per usual – lovely post
Kris