Ponce, Puerto Rico
Author: Shirlz
I don’t have an actual cruising guide to Puerto Rico but from my charts it looked as if Puerto Patillas on the South East coast would be a good overnight stop on the way to Ponce. It was an easy 20 odd miles from Esperanza, Vieques, and we arrived in the early afternoon after a smooth sail between the islands. The anchorage is tucked in behind a big reefy area and I sailed carefully around it rather than trust what could have possibly been a shorter approach between the shallow patches. The wind was quite strong so I preferred to be cautious. There were a handful of other yachts anchored in the wonderfully protected bay, most of them appeared to be local boats. It was fairly shallow and I anchored in sand in just under 3m. The name is misleading as it is not really a port, just a scattering of small bars and restaurants and a stretch of beach with palm trees. The beach and swimming area were crowded as it was still the Easter weekend. I wanted to be able to contact the bank to sort out my problem as quickly as possible, so I couldn’t stay, and regrettably had to push on again early the next morning.
The next day started out with a gentle breeze and we drifted out of the anchorage at dawn just managing 2 knots with the full sail up. By 10am I was reefed right down and racing along at hull speed. No need to worry about getting in before dark!
The approach to Ponce harbour is well marked and it was a relief to get into sheltered water after the hectic day’s sailing. It took two attempts to get the anchor to set properly and I decided to wait until tomorrow before going ashore.
The very exclusive Ponce Yacht and Fishing Club does not allow cruising boats to use their facilities. At the head of the bay there is a long boardwalk lined with restaurants and I rowed along hopefully looking for a place to tie up the dinghy. The designated dinghy dock was not practical for me and would only be my last resort. It was my lucky day: as I rowed along to the extreme opposite end of the board walk, someone called to me. It was a local sailor who had come past admiring Speedwell the previous afternoon. He got permission for me to tie up to one of the docks of a smaller fishing club. It was an ideal spot for me and I was very grateful.
However, once ashore, I soon came to realise that this would not be the easiest place to get around. I had become so used to the ubiquitous minibuses in the rest of the Caribbean that I assumed there would be no problem getting into town. Wrong. The anchorage is surrounded by an enormous ‘recreational area’ which becomes a wasteland during the week and only comes alive at the weekend. It is designed for people who have cars. Very wide barren roads and acres of parking to be trudged across. I checked the map app on my tablet to find the nearest place to get some prepaid data time and started walking the 6.5km to the closest AT&T branch in Plaza de Caribe, a big glossy mall. I am used to walking but it was a long, hot, boring walk along the side of the motorway. Although, thankfully, and unlike other motorways that I have walked beside, there is a smooth, well-maintained pedestrian/cycle track running all the way along. Even some small trees to provide a bit of shade. I was quite impressed, despite the fact that the trees were mostly super-toxic manchineels.
The interesting part of town is centered around the Plaza las Delicias, nearly 8km from the anchorage.. I walked it once and then decided I might just be able to afford the taxi fare. It was definitely worth the trip as it is a wonderful contrast to the characterless shopping malls, motorways and parking areas that dominate the area. I enjoyed wandering about admiring the old buildings and the friendly, laid back atmosphere. I was included in a free tour of one of the old houses and then a trolley ride around all the points of interest. Just like a real tourist.
But time was moving on and I was keen to sail over to Cartagena as soon as there was a break in the rather rough weather. I was not getting anywhere with the bank so I decided to postpone trying to satisfy their demand for a proof of permanent residence and get ready to leave. I would need an official exit document to show the immigration authorities in Colombia, so next day I headed for the US Customs and Border Patrol people.
The customs office is in the old port, a mere 3.5 km walk from the anchorage. The old port is a bit of a ghost town with streets lined with solid old buildings, many of them gutted inside but with the exterior walls painted in vibrant colours. Some house engineering works or provide parking for customers. There weren’t many cars around. The customs building itself is beautifully maintained and I was graciously received. No long noisy queue to join. A pleasant conversation with the port captain who was interested in my travels. I got the necessary documents and was ready to leave.