Short stop in the Gambier Islands
Author: Shirlz
When I arrived in the anchorage at Rikitea, the beautiful sailing ship ‘Picton Castle” was there. What a romantic sight. As soon as I had settled in they sent over a launch with a big bag of very welcome fruit. They planned to leave the next day but when I told them about my problem with the self-steering gear they had me bring it over and did a great job of fixing the broken bit. So wonderful!
The little town stretches along a single coastal road and I had no problem finding the Gendarmerie to clear in. Unfortunately I did not have the necessary visa for French Polynesia and was only granted 15 days. Rather a pity but it would be enough time to sort out the batten, put the Navik together again and restock with food and water. Not the cheapest place to reprovision but the little shop had a good selection of imported French delicacies and I went a bit wild with good cheeses and other treats. Local Rum was a shocking $30 a bottle.
The short stay was probably a blessing as after my slow passage from Panama I needed to keep moving if I wanted to reach New Zealand before the start of the cyclone season. My worst job was cleaning the hull. The bright yellow top sides had become almost completely covered in black and green algae which was very difficult to scrub off. Then I had to tackle the goose barnacle forest on the underwater part of the hull. I had been colonised by a group of voracious remora fish but they seemed to have no appetite for barnacles.
Eventually the boat was starting to look presentable again and I spent a few days repairing the batten between rain showers. Luckily I still had a good supply of fibreglass cloth and epoxy and was able to line the batten up reasonably straight and fashion a sleeve of many layers of glass which seems to be holding it together. When there was a calm day I raised the poor tired sail and used contact glue to stick patches over the chafed area and moved the bottom batten, which looked like a good one, into the slot vacated by the broken one. The repaired batten went down to the bottom panel which will only really be needed in light winds.
Not much chance for sightseeing but the anchorage itself is quite beautiful and I was happy to just be there. People were very friendly and I was showered with gifts of local fruit – pomelos, oranges, bananas, papayas, breadfruit and coconuts. Absolute bliss after weeks of tinned stuff.
There is an enormous church in the village – the result of madly over-zealous missionary activity in the old days. The elaborate altar is entirely decorated with shells. Rather different to the overpowering gold decoration in many South American churches.
As my allotted 15 days is for the whole of French Polynesia I am planning to make my next stop at Rarotonga in The Cook Islands, about 1350nm further along.
August 19th, 2018 at 23:40
It’s been a long time since the Bahamas, and I have wondered where you have wandered over the years. So glad to hear you’re still living the dream!
August 20th, 2018 at 01:33
You’re a star. Anyone else would have bitched and whinged, you simply says well you’re a bit behind schedule so have to move on anyway. What a great attitude. Can’t wait to see you when you arrive in NZ! Bon voyage – I hope some of that fruit keeps well.
August 21st, 2018 at 17:21
You are AMAZING!!!!! You are my idol! Got our boat sold last year but I have a C-180 to learn to fly!!!! Really miss you. Keep the dream going!!!!! Lots of hugs!!!!
August 24th, 2018 at 18:01
So good to read you arrived safely and are on your next leg down to NZ. Keep living the dream.