On to Banggi
Friday, February 17th, 2023
February, 2023
The Duck Pond was becoming rather crowded with an influx of yachts arriving from the Philippines, many of them French. An interesting collection of boats; at one point there were three other bright yellow ones in the harbour. We were surrounded by a cat’s cradle of lines holding the boats stern-to the wall and anchors crossing over each other ahead, I had started to feel rather trapped. It was time to move on.
Tuesday, 7 Feb
I waited for a calm day and Tony on a neighbouring boat helped me untie my shore lines. I hauled on the Fortress anchor which had been set well ahead and Speedwell’s long keel slid easily over the other boats’ crossing bow lines with the engine in neutral. The Fortress had been set out one stormy day when the Delta had dragged, again with invaluable help from Tony. Now, it came up without any problem apart from lots of mud. We had definitely been in one place for too long, the stern lines were encrusted with growth and green slime and I left them piled up in the cockpit while I motored the short distance around to Kudat harbour. We moved smoothly through the calm water – the bottom and the prop had been very well cleaned by Craig – and we were soon anchored a reasonable distance from the fishing fleet and within rowing distance of the Police Dock where I was hoping to be able to get ashore.
Thursday, 9 Feb
I spent two days cleaning the shells and green slime off the lines. Not an easy job, which left the surroundings on deck in a real mess. At last all was shipshape again and I thought about getting ashore. But then the wind came up. Unless I’m really desperate I don’t choose to row my bouncy little dinghy in a busy harbour when the wind is strong and the water choppy. I decided to explore further up the bay and closer to the mangroves where there is a water-village on stilts.
Friday, 10 Feb
Further in, the water was calmer and I anchored in 5m in beautiful surroundings. Very happy to be in more open water again. I decided to just stay where I was for a few days. There are always enough little jobs to be done on the boat to keep me occupied and internet reception was good. I was anchored roughly opposite the stilt village but quite a way off so I was fairly suprised to hear a knock on the hull and someone shouting ‘hullo!’ It was a local guy who had swum out (about half a mile) with the aid of a blown up plastic sack for buoyancy and a pair of homemade flippers. He was very interested in my rig and didn’t seem worried about the possibility of crocodiles. Is this something they just tell the tourists?
I was planning to sail across to Pulau Banggi, an island about 23 nm away to the NE, but the wind was blowing steadily F4 to 5 from precisely that direction and there was some adverse current. I was hoping for a slight improvement as I did not want to arrive in the dark. I also needed to get ashore for supplies before setting off.
Monday 13 Feb
I moved back closer to the dock and found a good place to leave the dinghy while I went shopping. It was good to walk around the town with it’s lively market again and I stopped for a Kopi-0 at my favourite coffee shop. Everyone so friendly.
Back on board, I got the dinghy back on deck ready to leave early the next morning.
Tuesday 14 Feb
The wind had dropped a little and backed more towards the NW and it seemed about the best we could hope for at this time of the year. I set off quite early in the morning and was able to sail out of the harbour with the full sail up. Just wonderful to be moving again. We were able to maintain about 3 knots until nearly 2pm when the wind started to strengthen and veer more northerly. If I was going to get in before dark we needed help from the engine. So, reluctantly, we motor-sailed the rest of the way. As we approached Banggi I had to slow down a bit to allow a big ship to cross our path. The Navionics charts of the island are a bit vague and the satellite images that I had were also very indistinct but it seemed that it would be fine to enter through the channel NE of Pulau Patanunam. The sun was still high enough to see where the reef extended and the water was very clear. Plenty of room and no problems. I found a good place to anchor in about 12m in front of the water village and easy rowing distance to the ferry dock.
Wednesday, 15 Feb
A beautiful, calm day so I launched the dinghy and found a place to leave her on the shore next to the fish market. rubble-strewn, but safe. The main attraction in the little town of Karakit is the big ferry dock that extends over the water with an interesting market and some restaurants. A ferry had just arrived and the place was busy with people arriving from Kudat carrying lots of baggage. Some of the planks are a bit rickety and it’s a good idea to watch where you put your feet. Closer to the fish market there are also a few small general stores and I was able to find an edible-looking block of cheddar cheese.
Thursday, 16 Feb
I was busy making some toast for breakfast when a small open boat with a woman and four children came alongside to sell me a big polished conch shell for whatever I had to offer. I had been told about the sea gypsies who live on their boats in this area. The woman was very friendly and the kids were all smiling. What can one do? I bought the shell and gave them some biscuits, soap and shampoo which they seemed happy with.
They had not been gone long, when the wind started to pick up and within about half an hour a very intense squall blasted the bay. I don’t have an anemometer but it must have been at least F10. Fortunately it lasted less than an hour and much to my relief the anchor held. I had 50m of chain out in 12m of water and would have liked to let out more but it was too strong for me to do anything during the blow. As soon as the wind dropped a bit I put out more chain in case there was more to come. That old ‘stable door’…
I was quite happy that the squall also brought plenty of rain which helped to top up my water tanks.
