Speedwell of Hong Kong

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Posts Tagged ‘Lombok’

Leaving Lombok

Thursday, July 28th, 2022

July 2022

Life had become just a little too comfortable in the wonderful Lombok anchorages of Gili Gede, Marina del Ray, Gili Asahan and Gili Goleng. The SE monsoon was in full swing and it was time to shake things up and get moving again. My visa had been extended for another 60 days which was hopefully enough time for me to sail comfortably up to Malaysia. I planned to enter at Kuching in Sarawak on Borneo, making as many anchoring stops in Indonesia as possible along the way. Not being much of a forward planner, I decided to take things one step at a time. First stop would be the touristy beach town of Lovina on the south coast of Bali.

Siri Beach Sunset

In order to get there I had to cross the dreaded Lombok Strait with its fearsome currents. The easy way to do this is to head up to the Northern Gilis and maybe a bit further on to Medana Bay or Siri Beach, staying close enough to the west coast of Lombok to avoid the worst of the wicked southerly current.

I made my farewells at the marina and set off heading north. It was a perfect day and I had a lovely sail, hardly noticing any adverse current. I had thought of possibly stopping overnight at Sengigi on the west coast of Lombok, as I hadn’t yet tried that anchorage, but the wind was more South than East and it didn’t look too promising. I carried on to Siri and anchored in 14m in the protected bay, surrounded by white beaches and tall palm trees. An interesting mixture of traditional fishermen’s palm thatched houses with outrigger boats drawn up on the beach and some rather exclusive resort establishments.

I had a cooling swim and enjoyed the sunset.

A Walk Along the Beach

Next morning I rowed ashore early and had a walk all the way along the beach. The resorts all looked rather empty but the workers and fishermen were about and I found myself being shown a collection of beautiful locally produced pearls. Black, cream and pink. The prices were quite reasonable and I was tempted but I settled for some delicate macramé bracelets with tiny odd-shaped pearls involved.

A Last Look Back at Lombok’s Mount Rinjani

After a couple of relaxing days I decided to make the leap across the Lombok Strait to the north coast of Bali and anchor at Lovina which many people had recommended as a comfortable place to stop. It was a distance of about 73 nautical miles which would mean 24 sleepless hours for me. With strong currents and lots of traffic, both big ships and small fishing boats. I would have to keep a continuous, sharp lookout. To add to the problem, there are numerous FAD’s or Fish Attracting Devices scattered along the coast of Bali. These are strange constructions of bamboo and palm fronds with underwater nets. They are not lit and quite impossible to spot at night. So it was with some trepidation that I bravely set off.

A dreaded FAD

The crossing of the strait was easy with a useful breeze moving us along at a comfortable 4 knots, the full sail up and looking beautiful. It was great to be out at sea again. About half way along the north coast of Bali, the sun was getting low and the wind died completely. I had been expecting this and was ready to get the engine going. We were forced to motor the rest of the way. I was keeping a careful watch, sitting in the cockpit all night. A small bit of moon helped for a while but it was a dark night. I was about 5 miles offshore, hoping to avoid the FADs and had a beautiful view of the sparkling lights of Bali lighting up the mountainous coastline. There were many groups of small fishing boats out with very bright lights shining to attract squid, and were easily avoided.

By sunrise next day I was approaching Lovina. Perfect timing. I had recently discovered a wonderful app for my phone called Offline Maps which allows you to download satellite images of your destination and with GPS ability shows your exact position with respect to the reefs. A tremendous help in a place like this, where the sheltering reefs were not easy to spot in the early morning light and the Navionics charts give very little detail.

Dolphin Viewing Boats

As I neared the entrance I had to negotiate a flotilla of outrigger tourist boats loaded with hopeful dolphin watchers. They crowded around, chasing about towards any possible movement of the dolphins. I could see quite a lot of churning about in the water where there was obviously a group of the creatures. I turned to avoid the crowds and suddenly to my absolute amazement and wonder a perfectly choreographed group of four big gleaming dolphins broke the surface in an elegant arching leap, lined up with military precision, looking straight ahead. It was stupendous. It seemed as if they knew exactly what was expected of them and were happy enough to oblige. But, just the once, and then they were off, duty done.

Speedwell and Tropicali just visible between the letters

Lovina has a black sand beach which makes it difficult to judge the depth of the water by sight, but it was easy to find a good spot in about 9m of water and close enough for a short row ashore. The tourist industry is making a slow recovery after the Covid lockdown and one has to run the gauntlet of people trying to sell trinkets or taxi rides or guided tours. Many trendy restaurants line the colourful streets and the ornate Hindu temples make for an exotic scene. A tall column supporting a dolphin statue is a gathering place on the beach for locals and visitors to sit and watch the sunset before continuing with their more strenuous evening entertainment.

Dolphin Statue at Sunset

I was very happy to get the opportunity to meet up with Ruth again. She was anchored in the bay on her boat, Tropicali, and we were able to do some catching up.

Anchored at Banyu Wedang

Unfortunately the anchorage is a bit rolly and after 2 or 3 days I had had enough and moved 32nm further along the coast to a much more protected anchorage at Banyu Wedang. Again Offline Maps made it easy to navigate the reefs on either side of the fairly narrow entrance, but this time they were also easy to spot by eye. The anchorage is rather deep (19m) but perfectly sheltered with flat water. The wind had picked up and I decided to wait a few days for slightly calmer weather before setting off across the Java Sea.

Tags: Bali, Lombok, Lovina
Posted in Cruising, Indonesia | 2 Comments »

Gili Air

Saturday, December 18th, 2021

December 2021

I left Gili Asahan early on a rainy morning heading for Gili Air about 25nm away on the NW corner of Lombok. I raised the sail before dropping the mooring ball, ever hopeful, but I had to motor away from the mooring.

Gili Asahan Anchorage

Maybe there would be enough of a breeze once I was away from the shelter of the anchorage. A gentle North-running current was forecast so at least I would have this to help us along. Sure enough, once out in the channel, there was a little bit of wind and I switched off the noisy engine. We drifted peacefully along at 1.5 knots for about an hour by which time I realized that if I wanted to get in before dark we would have to do some motor sailing. And so it was until just 5 miles off when a southerly breeze picked up nicely and we were able to sail for the last few miles of the trip.

A Pink Boat to Brighten the day

The anchorage at Gili Air is well protected by reefs on either side, clearly marked by breaking waves. I picked up a handy mooring and enjoyed the sunset.

The next morning a local boat arrived and I paid for the use of the mooring. While we were settling up Das, one of the men, pointed out that my prop was fouled with a bunch of plastic bags. He very kindly managed to clear it for me with the use of my boathook. That could explain why we seemed to be moving more slowly than expected while we were motoring.

For the next few days it rained heavily and I stayed on board quite glad to be collecting rain water to fill my tanks and do some washing. A bright pink tourist boat, moored nearby, brightened the scene.

My Dinghy on the Beach at Gili Air

As soon as the rain cleared I bailed out the dinghy and rowed ashore to the beach. There are no motorised vehicles on the island so pony carts are used for carrying any heavy loads. They were lined up, patiently waiting, near the shore where the small ferry boats from the mainland arrive.

I needed the exercise so went for a walk all the way around the island. Practically all the tourist bars and hotels were closed with just a few catering for the odd stragglers or local visitors. The rest were boarded up and mostly slowly succumbing to encroaching waves or jungle. Not a happy sight.

Everything Closed Up

Back at the starting point I went looking for a shop, hoping for some fresh fruit and vegetables. I found the main ‘street’ that runs towards the centre of the island and a very good shop with all I needed. Plenty of ATM’s which was a pleasant surprise as there are none on Gili Gede and cash is still needed for most things here.

Unfortunately, the next day the wind strengthened and was blowing on shore and through the gap in the reef which made the anchorage very uncomfortable and almost impossible for me to get ashore in my light dinghy. I decided to move across to the mainland on the opposite side of the channel where there is another small bay which looked as if it would be much better sheltered.

Speedwell Moored Beyond the Local Boats at Gili Air

It was only about 2.5 nm across and I soon arrived at Teluk Nara which was beautifully calm and sheltered. The water was rather deep, about 25m, and I don’t have an electric windlass so I motored around looking for a mooring. All the shallower water close to the shore was crowded with local fishing or dive boats. At last I found an unused mooring which needed a bit of untangling. I sorted it out and tied up then tested it by reversing gently backwards. It seemed OK.

There is quite a big dock to cater for ferries taking people across to the Gili islands but only small boats were using it now. I left my dinghy on the beach and went exploring. Everyone I spoke to immediately knew that I was from the small yellow boat. All very friendly. As usual, all very amazed that I was doing this alone.

The View from my Favourite Restaurant

There was a very pleasant bar/restaurant overlooking the bay and I treated myself to nasi goreng and a beer for lunch. I enjoyed a few peaceful days, just messing about, doing odd jobs on the boat and making use of the warung ashore for lunch as it saved having to find a shop and cooking and was super-cheap. But trouble was looming. A very strong adiabatic gust off the mountain had me out on deck to see if all was fine, only to realize that the mooring, which I had obviously been too gentle in testing, had dragged a long way and we were very close to another big boat anchored out in the bay. I dropped the mooring and motored closer in hoping for shallower water. The best I could find was 23m. Dropped the anchor and let out 60m of chain. I’ve done it before so it shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

What was more of a problem was the dreadful toothache that had erupted. A dentist was essential. I won’t go into gory details, but it involved finding a driver to take me to the nearest small town with a ‘dokter gigi’ who did her best to help me and at least stopped the pain. Further treatment will have to wait.

Back to Gili Gede

It was time to head back to base at Gili Gede but now the wind was stubbornly blowing from the south which is the direction I needed to go. I managed to haul the heavy chain up and made the short hop back to Gili Air to do some shopping and was delighted to find a bottle of ‘champagne’ at a corner shop. Christmas is coming and I’ve been invited to join friends on Bali. I was also happy to stock up with some really good mangoes, papaya and avocados. What a treat!

Spider Boats Fishing with Volcano in the Background

Next day the wind was light and variable and I made it back to Marina del Ray. Mostly motor sailing but very pleasant. Rob from Lalamanzi came over to help me choose a mooring. He and Muzzi will also be going to Ruth’s place on Bali for Christmas. I’ll be taking a ferry across and leaving Speedwell at the marina.

Tags: Gili Islands, Indonesia, Lombok
Posted in Cruising, Indonesia | 3 Comments »

Second Jab and a Slinky Visitor

Monday, November 22nd, 2021

November 2021

Time was running on and I still hadn’t had my second Covid vaccination. It has become essential for any sort of travel and I decided to make an effort to get it done. Friends of mine had been told that foreign visitors had to go to a particular clinic in Mataram. I had been planning a trip there to get an extension of my visa so it didn’t seem like too much of a problem. However, when I mentioned it to Albert who was managing the extension procedure, he offered to make some inquiries and about half an hour later he had arranged for a friend of his in the police force to take me to a nearby village where I could get the shot. It seemed like a good opportunity and we roared across to the mainland in the marina dinghy where the policeman and his motorbike were waiting on the jetty. I climbed up onto the machine and we sped off down the narrow road that follows the coast. It was quite a long ride.

Just Jabbed at the Bush Clinic

At last we arrived at a cluster of small houses and a group of nurses and medics gathered in a ‘pondok’ which is a little raised platform with a palm-frond roof. They were quite happy to give me the jab, but only had Sinovac which I had been told I should not have in combination with the Astra Zeneca I’d been given in Fiji. After some consultation, involving Google Translate on my phone, and a mere half-hour wait, a special delivery of Pfizer was made. What wonderful service.

The next day I was feeling a bit washed out due to a reaction to the vaccine and spent most of the day sleeping on my bunk. At some point in the afternoon I got up to get some fresh air outside and as I glanced across at the opposite bunk where I usually sit at my little table, I was rather startled to see a long silver and black banded snake smoothly moving along the top of the cushions and across the table. Wow. I grabbed my phone and took a picture, hopped into my dinghy and rowed ashore for help. One of the marina staff came back with me and very calmly and competently lifted the snake with the help of a broomstick and put it into my canvas bucket. It was then taken some distance away from the boat and released in the middle of the channel.

The Krait

A beautiful creature but extremely venomous. I was told that it was a Banded Sea Krait and they are quite common here. Fortunately not aggressive. OK. So now I am supremely conscious of where I place my feet when I come below, and check before sticking my hand into the dark recesses of a locker. Awareness is all! Friends in the nearby anchorage at Gili Asahan have had one come aboard four nights in a row.

Tags: Covid, Krait, Lombok
Posted in Cruising, Indonesia | 2 Comments »

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