Tonga
Author: Shirlz
The anchorage at Neiafu, the main town of Vava’u, is well protected from all winds and crowded with moorings. There seemed no alternative but to pick one up or anchor way out in water about 30m deep.
I used the time there to do some shopping at the really good open market where it was evident that pineapples were in season. Very sweet and deliciously juicy.
Walking around the outskirts of town I was amazed at the number of pigs and piglets wandering freely about. I found out later that many of them are feral and are a bit of a nuisance. Although, I thought the tiny piglets were rather cute, always keeping within safe proximity to their own personal milkbar and protector.
On one of my walks, to have a look at a small cave, I was viciously attacked by a pack of 5 or 6 dogs. It was a terrifying experience. Luckily I was rescued before too much damage was done. The local hospital gave me a tetanus shot but no stitches were required. I’ve been advised to carry a stone on my walks so that I can threaten to throw it at any worrisome dogs, as they are generally known to be a bit of a problem.
After paying for a week on a mooring I decided to try to find a less crowded place to anchor. I had managed to get a copy of a chartlet showing the recommended anchoring spots and set off to start exploring.
After a short (5 miles) sail I found a place in the beautiful bay of Port Morelle. Not really a port as such, just a lovely small white beach at the head of a bay surrounded by forest. It was wonderful to be away from the throng with only 2 or 3 other boats in the anchorage. A strong east wind had been blowing ever since I first arrived but here it was relatively calm with crystal clear water making snorkelling irresistible. After a few days the wind finally dropped and I paddled across to the reefs that line the shore.
Inevitably, after about a week, the wind came round to north west which is the only direction to which the bay is open. It kicked up a nasty swell – time to move on. So another five miles of magical sailing to the island of Nua Lapu where I picked up a free mooring in the lee of a small village. Dogs eyed me from the shore and I was quite happy to stay on board..
Next day the sun was out at last and I snorkeled among brightly iridescent turquoise and indigo fish. But supplies were running low and I sailed back to Neiafu for a quick shopping trip.
While having a coffee break, I met Sheri and Larry who told me about a good long-term anchorage near Tapana Island. They have a small catamaran and have been living there for the past 20 years, weathering many cyclones. It sounded like a plan.
I sailed there the next day really enjoying the clear, flat water, gentle breeze and exquisite surroundings. What a change to be sailing for the sheer pleasure of it.
The Tapana Island anchorage is everyone’s dream of the South Pacific. A really lovely place to relax and unwind. Calm enough to be able to do many of the jobs needed on Speedwell. I have the use of a very secure mooring and plan to stay here for as much as possible of the cyclone season rather than spending months in the Boatyard. Hopefully hauling out only just before I leave to do the usual antifouling.
A flock of Black Noddies have adopted Speedwell as the perfect place to perch and watch the water for their next fishy snack to swim past. They squawk and dive and flutter back. Sometimes the water is alive with bigger fish. A pair of tropic birds have a nest ashore and a small blue heron patrols the beach in the evenings. What a wonderful place. If only it wasn’t for those cyclones….
November 22nd, 2018 at 02:44
Hey, really good to hear that you are relaxing after your Pacific adventures. It’s great that you are enjoying Tonga and sounds like you’ll soon have a few people to spend time with. Even better that you may be able to spend most of your time in the water, rather than hauled out. Enjoy paradise!
November 24th, 2018 at 16:41
Eximious blog!
Great to hear all’s well in your Vertue!
January 22nd, 2019 at 00:05
I have been following your blog and very happy you are in Tonga. I have a modified junk rig and excited to know there is a junk rig association. Be well
March 25th, 2019 at 14:39
I very much hope that everything is fine for you?
Give us your news as soon as possible please?
Best regards