Bartica
Author: Shirlz
I have made Bartica my base in Guyana as it is the most convenient place for stocking up and there are no villages with shops further up the Essequibo river. It is also a base for the miners who operate in the interior, panning the river for alluvial gold and diamonds. No one has ever found Eldorado, the city of gold promised by Sir Walter Raleigh after his reconnaissance of the area, but tons of gold are slowly being recovered in a less spectacular fashion. The main street has many shops buying and selling gold and every hardware shop and general dealer sells delicate scales to weigh the gold dust. It’s a tempting thought to try my hand at a little panning for the precious stuff but of course it’s not that simple. A licence is needed and a section of the river has to be officially allocated. But what a thrilling thought, that there is actually gold in them thar hills! Most of the gold is recovered in the form of fine dust after a patient process of refinement, the heavier gold always settling out from the other sediment. Some intrepid types dive for it at the base of waterfalls using hookah gear as bigger nuggets collect in the gravel below the falls. The only snag is that visibility underwater is zero so it all has to be done by feel. The divers have to hand over their haul to the owner of the claim who pays them a small fraction of the market value. Not surprisingly some nuggets get concealed in nooks and crannies for later more profitable recovery.
There are also bauxite mines way up river and the ore is carried down to the coast on massive barges.
One needs to anchor far enough off to allow them to use the channel that runs along the shoreline which means that I get plenty of exercise rowing ashore, trying to avoid being swamped by the fast water taxis and pitting my wits against the tide. My small rowing dinghy is the only one there and has become a source of free local entertainment. I have grown used to being greeted by people miming my rowing action as I walk along 1st Avenue, the main street. There is a convenient small floating dock attached to the ‘Kool Breeze’ waterside restaurant which is a safe place to leave the dinghy. The restaurant itself is derelict and has closed down awaiting renovation but its extensive wooden deck overlooking the water is a popular place to hang out while waiting for a water taxi or in my case, the right tide for rowing back to Speedwell.
The main street is chaotically busy. Pedestrians crowd the road as there are no pavements and cars and lorries take up all the space along the edges, forcing one into the traffic. Many of the vehicles are massive, mud-spattered Bedford trucks with dire lettering warning of the highly flammable nature of their cargo. Presumably taking supplies up country to the mines.
Shopping in most of the stores is like going back half a century in time. Goods are stacked on shelves behind a long counter and you have to ask for the stuff you need. Most basic things are available, but strangely, it’s impossible to buy butter. Wine is also not an option, so one settles for the excellent and very cheap rum and of course beer.
The currency takes a bit of getting used to. The exchange rate is about 200 to the US$, so the numbers are big and the highest denomination note that the ATM spits out is 1000 (ie. 5 US). I haven’t yet discovered a shop in Bartika that accepts credit cards so fat wads of notes have to be carried around. Apart from the rum, things are pricey.
One small problem that I’ve had is finding methylated spirits or alcohol as its called in Brazil for pre-heating my Primus stove. I stupidly had forgotten to buy a good supply before leaving Natal. I was able to track down a small (250ml) bottle of seriously dark purple coloured liquid with a hand drawn skull and crossbones on the label describing it as ‘mentholated’ spirits but when I tried to use it to light my stove it proved to have been heavily diluted with water and only very reluctantly produced a sullen little flame, totally inadequate for the job. I’m hoping to find something better in Georgetown next week.
Tags: cruising
October 28th, 2012 at 16:53
Glad you found the time to visit amazing Bartica!
I look forward to swapping more stories with you (over drinks), when you reach Trinidad and Tobago.
Will you arrive before the 10th of November?
October 28th, 2012 at 17:14
I’d love to swap stories and do some liming in Trini but don’t plan on leaving here before the end of November 😉
October 29th, 2012 at 11:21
Then I will see you in Bartica on my way back to French Guiana.
October 29th, 2012 at 11:22
Need anything from the ship Chandler?
October 29th, 2012 at 11:34
Hey, let me think about that and I’ll email you.