When I reached Jamaica I made a stop…
Monday, May 5th, 2014
Port Antonio, Jamaica
Monday, 5th May 2014
My plans for sailing to Nova Scotia were thwarted when I discovered that nowadays SA citizens need a visa to enter Canada. Time was running out and I decided to spend the hurricane season in the Rio Dulce in Guatamala and try to get the visa from there so as to be ready to go next year. I did some final stocking up and we set off.
It’s a downwind run all the way and I hoped to make a halfway stop in Jamaica. The first two days we had a steady gentle breeze and smooth sea which was wonderful sailing. But the wind soon strengthened with alarmingly big swells and for four days we raced and rolled along with the sail reefed down to 2 or 3 panels.
Sparky seemed quite happpy and scampered about playing his little games and eating heartily. But unfortunately he was just a bit too adventurous and quite fearlessly unconcerned about getting his paws wet on deck. It was impossible to keep him down below all the time, although I clipped him on in his hammock when I needed to gybe. One dark and wild moonless night my little black kitten slipped out on deck unseen by me and must have been swept overboard. I never saw it happen and searched frantically for him in all his usual hiding places but he was gone. I carried on with a heavy, heavy heart.
I had thought of stopping at Ile a Vache near the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic but the weather was still very strong and it was night time when we were close enough to approach so I kept going across the Jamaica Channel arriving at the entrance to Port Antonio in the early afternoon of the following day. I was disappointed not to get a view of the Blue Mountains which were lurking under heavy cloud cover.
The entrance to Port Antonio is well marked with a distinctive 100-year old lighthouse and lit channel buoys. Waves were crashing on the rocks either side as wind and seas were still high. I sailed in with just a scrap of sail up taking the deep channel to starboard into the East Harbour. The view was breathtaking and as usual I was too busy steering to be able to take pictures.
The harbour is wonderfully protected and a handful of yachts were peacefully anchored in front of the Errol Flynn Marina. It was a welcome sight after 8 days at sea. I was told to tie up at the marina dock and a quick visit by officers from Quarantine, Customs and Immigration went very smoothly.Then the bliss of a real shower in luxurious surroundings – an unaccustomed treat.
Next day, after a good night’s sleep I walked about the colourful little town. The main street is currently being torn up to lay new drainage pipes which made it necessary to do a lot of hopping across muddy puddles.
On Saturday the market was in full swing and I loaded up with mangos, grapefruit, bananas and fresh vegetables. A bag of Blue Mountain coffee of course.
I found a marvellous bakery and was told to come back a bit later when the fresh bread would be ready. So back to the boat to drop off the mangos, etc, then a slow wander through the town just absorbing the music and colourful life on the streets. The occasional beggar always had a good story and there was no nasty hassling. I bought a little bamboo flute which I am still struggling to play as beautifully as the man who demonstrated it to me.
Yesterday I rowed across to Navy Island which at one time belonged to Errol Flynn of swashbuckling fame. Now the buildings are ruined but there is a well maintained walking trail which takes you round to wonderful views of the sea on the outside.
I walked to the far end to get a look at the entrance to the channel. Tiny jumping lizards flashed and skittered off the path ahead of me and an enormous slate-grey heron flapped and rose noisly just ahead of me giving me quite a start.
The sail had suffered a bit in the constant strong wind with some holes chafed through where it rubbed against the lazy jacks. I will have to do some patching up when I get to Rio Dulce. I replaced the yard hauling parrel which had nearly worn through. The Navik shaft has developed a bend which looks a bit odd. I took it apart and there are no visible cracks so I hope it holds together for the next leg as there seems to be no one here capable of straightening it for me. It still works despite looking a little lopsided.