Sailing the Blue Lane to Fiji
Saturday, May 22nd, 2021
May 2021
While I was moored in Kerikeri I spoke to the skipper of a New Zealand boat who had sailed to Fiji and back last year using the newly created ‘Blue Lane’ scheme to allow yachts to safely visit the islands. I had been under the impression that once there, you had to remain tied up in a marina. Apparently not. I was not really looking forward to another cold winter and did some investigating. What had to be done was to submit to a Covid-19 test and if it was negative, leave within 72 hours of the sample being taken. It was also necessary to have an AIS transponder active for the entire voyage to prove that no stops were made along the way. An agent was essential to coordinate the negotiations.

I decided to go for it and had Speedwell hauled out at the boatyard in Opua for a fresh coat of antifouling. I was able to buy an AIS transponder and antenna splitter while I was there. I also installed a new solar panel and controller to power the additional electronics.
I moved back to the anchorage near Russell and made an appointment for the test at the local medical centre. The sample would have to be sent to an approved pathology lab in Auckland, the results returned to the medical centre and then to me so that I could forward it to my agent in Fiji, who would pass it on to the officials that end and get their approval for my trip. Only then would I be able to clear with customs in Opua. All within 72 hours. Of course, advance warning of departure had to be given to New Zealand customs and an appointment made with an officer to travel from Whangarei to Opua on the planned day, dependant on receiving permission to travel to Fiji from that end. Oh boy. Of course, the weather, which is normally the most important factor when planning to start a voyage became irrelevant.
Well, amazingly enough, it all came together and on the morning of 30th April (a Friday) I left the Bay of Islands with 2 hours to go before the time limit was up.
Friday, 30th April, 2021
I woke early to get everything ready for departure before 9am which is when my 72 hours would expire. A final notification to NZ Customs that I was now actually under way and another to the agent in Fiji giving my ETA. As it had taken 19 days for the passage from Tonga to Opua I used the same time frame for this trip. I think that the agent was more used to dealing with superyachts who could do the trip in under a week and he seemed a little incredulous.
I dropped the mooring I had conveniently ‘borrowed’ and we were off at last. I raised the full sail but had to use the engine as there was no wind. I had to admit to a nostalgic pang as I passed the anchorage near Russell, but the wind was picking up a little and at last I could kill the noisy engine. It was a perfect day for starting a passage, a gentle F3 SW wind and a calm sea. I had the full sail up and the new battens looked very sound and confidence-inspiring. I hooked up the Navik and it coped magnificently. A small group of little blue penguins watched our approach and prudently dived and disappeared as we got closer.

At sunset we were still within internet range of the coast and I was able to get a last weather forecast. I downloaded the PassageWeather charts for the next few days and they seemed fairly reassuring. Some stronger winds were forecast but I was hoping that the worst would have passed by the time I expected to arrive in Fiji.
I slept in 20 minute snatches as there is quite a bit of big ship traffic near the coast. The AIS warned me of 3 which came within my 5 mile range. As usual, I actually spotted them before the warning went off.
Saturday, 1st May,2021
Before dawn, I was rudely awoken by an unexpected gybe. Oh dear, the Navik windvane was flopping about at an ineffective angle and seemed to have become disconnected. I hauled the sail in and hove-to. The weather was still beautifully calm and the moon was up. I had to unbolt the vane section and bring it in-board to repair it. The problem had happened before and was easy enough to fix. Soon we were on our way again.

For the next few days things were pretty steady and we were able to make good some easting which I was happy about as the stronger winds that were forecast were all from the east. Daily runs ranged around about 70 nm which I was quite content with, confirming my normal passage planning speed of 3 knots.
Wednesday, 5th May, 2021
The weather turned nasty today as predicted by the forecast. Speedwell has no wind instruments but judging by the state of the water and the performance of the Navik, and the quantity of seawater arriving in the cockpit I judged it to be 25-30 knots. I blessed the junk rig, put in three reefs to maintain our comfort level, and we plugged doggedly on, now hard on the wind but still able to lay the course. Things could be worse. Instant noodles for dinner tonight.
With no way of picking up a weather forecast one tries to get clues from the state of the sky. According to the rules compiled by Admiral Fitzroy (Darwin’s captain on the HMS Beagle), ‘A bright yellow sky at sunset presages wind; a pale yellow sky, wet’.
The sunset tonight was an ominous lemony yellow.
Thursday, 6th May, 2021
Another day of awful weather. Grey skies, big seas, strong winds, wet boat. But we are holding our own, painfully jogging along to windward (with a flat junk sail!), actually the sail is doing remarkably well and we are still averaging a healthy 50+ nm a day. With constant seas over the deck there is a lot of water in the bilge. I use the little electric pump to keep it under control. Unfortunately the regular extreme heeling to port causes water to slosh up the inside of the boat and has thoroughly soaked the foam mattress of my bunk. A nasty squelshiness that I must endure. There’s no way to dry it out, so I’ll just have to put up with it for the rest of the trip.
Proper cooking on the primus has become just too much of a challenge, but using the small fully gimballed gas stove I can at least make tea or coffee, or boil water for those noodles.
It’s a bit dark and gloomy down below, so whenever possible I don full foul-weather gear and wedge myself safely in a corner of the cockpit, hoping to spot a whale, a dolphin, a bird, anything really. So far no cetaceans, but there have been some beautiful petrels. With the help of Peter Harrison’s wonderful book on Seabirds (thanks again Annie!) I was able to identify two Kermadec petrels, a Westland Black and a Whiteheaded. I would love to try to get photos but I don’t have a waterproof camera and can’t risk using my phone.

Friday, 7th May, 2021
The heavy weather continues. The AIS is flashing a red error light every now and then. I hope it is still working.
Sitting in the cockpit I watch the birds which seem to have befriended us. There are two Westland petrels which return every afternoon. They circle the boat and swoop down to pick up whatever appears in our wake, then make a low, slow pass up the starboard side of the boat, flying to windward, almost stationary as they work hard against the wind, barely 10m away. A wonderful opportunity to really look at them. No binoculars required.
The sun was occasionally breaking through the clouds and two skittering and fluttering white-bellied storm petrels were making the most of the tiny sea creatures disturbed by our wake. They were a joy to watch, but how hard they have to work to feed themselves.
Baked beans (cold) for supper.
Saturday, 8th May 2021
Chocolate biscuit with my coffee this morning as it’s my birthday (73).
I think I’ll keep the bubbly till I get safely in to Savusavu.
A passage from the book I’m reading seemed rather apt, the last sentence particularly:
This sunset for instance, how lavishly it was laid on, the clouds, the light on the sea, that heartbreaking, blue-green distance, laid on, all of it, as if to console some lost, suffering wayfarer. I have never really got used to being on this earth. John Banville – The Book of Evidence
Sunday, 9th May 2021
And still the weather continues. Just 3 panels up, periodic swampings by breaking waves, but laying the course and making steady progress. 60 nm per day.
Passed the half way mark this evening – 580 nm to go.
Ready-to-eat curry for dinner, I don’t think I’ll try that again.
Tuesday, 11th May 2021
More strong winds and massive seas. Big waves break over us and water gushes through around the sides of the sliding hatch, drenching me as I lie in my bunk.
The Navik was wobbling about again and I have used a length of string to secure it as things were a bit too rough for dismantling it as I did before.

I’ve been filling in crosswords as a break from reading.
The wind eased off a bit this afternoon and the sun came out. I was able to raise a 4th panel and the sunset this evening was a promising pink. Dare we hope?
Wednesday, 12th May 2021
At about 4am I was awoken by a gybe. As dreaded, the Navik had come completely adrift again. It was a moonless night and I decided to wait till daybreak before attempting repairs. I disconnected it from the tiller and allowed Speedwell to steer herself. Only an occasional nudge from me was required. Conditions were easy, with a calm sea, F4 wind just ahead of the beam and the stars out in force. I steered by keeping the southern cross astern. It was much better to be out in the starry night than struggling to sleep in my clammy bunk.
As soon as it was light I got the windvane dismantled and did the necessary repairs. This time I used some contact adhesive on the offending bits and secured it again with string. It’s becoming a familiar routine. Getting it re-connected to the paddle at sea can be a challenge, even hove-to, as we were, but it slipped back easily into position and I tightened the securing screws with relief. We were on our way again.
Saturday, 15th May 2021
A slight change in the motion of the boat had me climbing out of my bunk at about 0200. The wind had dropped a bit and we were falling off course. I tried to raise another panel as we had been creeping along with 3 reefs in. Oh dear, the halyard seemed to be jammed and it was impossible to see what might be causing it in the pitch dark night. I decided to go back to bed and wait until morning.
After my first cup of coffee, I hove-to and tried to sort out the problem. The halyard was totally jammed. Impossible to raise or lower the sail. The culprit was my ragged NZ courtesy flag which I had neglected to lower when I left the Bay of Islands and later the bad weather kept me off the foredeck. Now it had become partly detached and had wrapped itself around the halyard, effectively making a secure slip knot which tightened under tension in either direction. Something had to be done. I tried jiggling it about with the boathook, but it was a long way up the mast and my position was precarious. I had a little think.. OK, loosen the flag halyard and try to carefully reverse the winding, Easier imagined than done, but we got there in the end. Another lesson painfully learnt: never go to sea with a flapping courtesy flag in the rigging.
At noon today, Matuka Island was just visible in the haze, 23nm to the NE.
For the first time, the wind blew warm and tropical.

Sunday, 16th May 2021
We are getting closer. Passed Moala island to starboard at dawn.
Two red-footed boobies came to inspect us,
At noon we had just 100 nm to go.
The afternoon was spent constantly raising and lowering one or two panels as one squall after another hit us. Lots of rain.
A wonderful red sky in the evening was this sailor’s delight. I toasted it with my last can of beer.
Monday, 17th May 2021
A beautiful sailing day. I had a shower in the cockpit enjoying the wonderful tropical warmth.
I was able to do a bit of cleaning and tidying up in the battlefield below. We are not going to get in before dark today (those squalls yesterday really slowed us down) but there are still plenty of days before we could be forced to arrive during the weekend with overtime fees payable. I mixed up a sweetcorn and smoked salmon salad for lunch which was delicious.
There have been very few birds over the last couple of days, but two masked boobies flew past – an adult with a juvenile in it’s wake.

At about 11pm I hove-to 10 miles off the coast to wait for dawn.
Tuesday, 18th May 2021
In the morning I sailed the last few miles into Savusavu Bay. I wasn’t sure where I was supposed to wait for the Navy to escort me in to the quarantine anchorage and tried calling them on the VHF. No response. I carried on sailing. Another lovely day. Once around the point, the water was flat and a useful breeze kept us moving. It felt good to be back in the tropics. Green hillsides, small houses scattered about on the steep slopes. One or two yachts anchored off tiny white beaches.

Eventually someone picked up my radio calls and a motor boat with 3 be-masked and be-gloved officials came out to meet me. I was news to them, although I had expected my agent in Denarau to have forwarded my info. I had to repeat all the advance notice of arrival information verbally. Then another longish wait, motoring now to stay in place. At last they were back and led the way to the quarantine anchorage.