Quickly down the Island Chain
Author: Shirlz
I spent a week in Deshaies on the NW coast of Basse Terre, Guadeloupe. Speedwell had taken quite a beating on the way from Morehead City and there was plenty of cleaning up to do on board. My faithful little electric bilge pump had decided to throw in the towel so the bilge had to be bailed and mopped dry by hand. It didn’t take long to get things almost back to normal (who would want a bigger boat?) and I was soon able to enjoy the quaint delights of Deshaies. Unfortunately my French is not up to par but most shopkeepers speak a smattering of English and I had no problems spending some money in the local Spar Supermarket.
To my delighted surprise, Joan and Graham on their boat, Karma, arrived soon after me. I had last seen them two years ago in Chaguaramas. It was great to have someone to talk to after 3 weeks alone at sea without even a cat to exchange opinions with. I joined them for a walk going to the top of Gros Morne, a peak providing good protection for the anchorage, and a mile or two up the coast along palm-fringed beaches.
The climb up the hill was quite a battle and I realized how unfit I had become as I struggled on up the steep slope and watched them bounding on ahead.
Then it was on to Dominica, an island that I had never stopped at before. Prince Rupert Bay near the northern end of the island is a good anchorage with plenty of room and easy access to the shore.
Unfortunately, there was a big swell running and the boats were rolling horribly. Karma was there before me and took me along with them for a day-trip round the southern half of the island in a hired car, a real treat for me as I rarely get the chance to explore inland.
We drove high into the steep volcanic hills of the interior, dense tropical rainforest crowding into the road. A stop at the Freshwater Lake where we walked along a path that went steeply up and down like a roller coaster, following the shores of the lake.
The views from the top sections were breath-taking and I could have spent days marvelling at the astonishing variety of plants growing so lushly along the way. But we had a busy itinerary for the day and soon it was on to the next viewpoint: Trafalgar Falls. Another walk, this time along an easy well paved path to a little pavilion where you can sit and admire the twin waterfalls. Again we were surrounded by giant ferns and palm trees and every imaginable type of extravagantly beautiful natural greenery.
Next a quick dip in a pool filled with hot spring water and on to Soufriere Bay at the very end of the island. We stopped at the small fishing village and had a very welcome cold beer then started back along the road to Prince Rupert Bay.
Wherever the road crosses a river sweeping down from the mountains, the bridges had been washed away by recent flooding and temporary iron bridges had been put in place. I got the impression that they might be more than just temporary as the next hurricane season will soon be here and it would seem a bit pointless to rebuild right now.
I had planned to spend longer in Dominica but the incessant 45deg rolling on the anchorage got the better of me and early the next day I set off for Martinique. I had thought of stopping at St Pierre where there is a little shop that sells Primus Stoves. Always a good idea to have a spare, but it was pitch dark as we neared the anchorage with an onshore swell. I decided to carry on to Fort de France and anchored there at dawn in the shelter of the great fort. Not much of a swell to make the boats roll, but the fast ferries that cross frequently to the other side of the bay, sometimes 2 or 3 at once, made sure that we were kept on our toes. At least they don’t run at night so there was some respite.
Another overnight sail and a short stop in Bequia, then on to Union Island in the Grenadines and my favourite anchorage at Chatham Bay. I arrived there on Friday and decided to spend the weekend. Crystal clear water and interesting snorkelling near to the cliff. A small raft was anchored in the bay and it was a favourite perch for a family of Masked Boobies, 2 pelicans and some laughing gulls. All sitting quite amicably together. Two turtles foraged about nearby. A moving population of charter cats coming and going, most not staying more than a day. There is very little development ashore and it is a pleasantly relaxing place to just be. One needs to make sure that the anchor is well dug in as wind squalls rush down through the surrounding hills and rival the williwaws of Tierra del Fuego as they race across the anchorage.
On Monday morning I had a comfortable sail across to Tyrell Bay on Carriacou and found a convenient place to anchor without too long a row to get ashore. The plan is to stay here for about a month while I wait for a new credit card to arrive from Darkest Africa.
June 7th, 2016 at 04:05
Looks like you are having a lot of fun! We are planning a trip to that neck of the woods next Easter. Maybe somewhere in Mexico or the Caribbean.
Pete