Rio Dulce
Author: Shirlz
Monday, 26 May 2014
I rowed ashore quite early and left my dinghy at a convenient fisherman’s dock, earning a few politely curious stares from the men working on their boats. It’s an interesting walk into town past many small tiendas, bars and vegetable stalls. I spent half an hour at the Customs office using their excellent wifi.
Women were doing their washing at a big pool fitted with wash basins below the office. I carried on up the hill into town and selected some avocados from a street vendor’s stall only to realise that I’d left my purse on the boat. So back again with no fresh stuff.The plan was to get moving up the river. Just as I was about to leave, the girls from the catamaran, Double Up, stopped to say hello and gave me an avocado.
I topped up the coolant, which had nearly all leaked out through the circulating pump, and headed on. The tide had just turned in my favour. Motoring through the narrow gorge was awe-inspiringly spectacular. Towering cliffs covered in an overwhelming variety of brilliantly green-leafed trees and luscious jungle creepers reaching down to the dark water’s edge, spangled here and there with pink or yellow or red flowers. I imagined hidden eyes watching my slow, noisy, invasive progress. Swallows flew along with me, sometimes perching on the bow rail. After a few miles it opened up a little and there were a few twisty turns. One very sharp hairpin bend where I had to keep close to the inside of the curve to find enough water. Just 2m.
Soon we arrived at El Golfete where the river opens up to form a wide lake. There is a small island near the entrance called Cayo Grande. I anchored between the island and the mainland in a fairly narrow channel. Had a quick swim to cool off and settled down in the cockpit to look around me. Musical chirping of crickets and birds. Occasional howler monkey roars. Egrets, pelicans, parrots, swallows. Maya fishermen in cayucos tending their nets. Small huts tucked away in the bush. At night totally dark.
I checked the engine coolant and the leak has almost stopped. Only just discernible. Very strange.
Next morning a family of geese were out foraging on the water. Mother with 8 goslings. I motored across to have a look at Texan Bay marina where my guidebook told me I might find a diesel mechanic. A clustered huddle of cruising boats. Mmmm. No, I carried on heading for the town of Fronteras where the bridge crosses the river and most of the cruising boat activity is centred. About 8 miles across El Golfete just motoring along. No wind flat calm much sweat.
Occasional houses with beautiful steep thatched roofs. Always the swallows flying along with me. Soon the lake narrowed and looked more like a river again. Now small marinas started appearing on either side. There didn’t seem to be any boats just anchored as I hoped to do. All were snugly tied up to docks and plugged in to the power supply. I was beginning to get a little concerned.
Approaching Shell Bay just before the bridge one of the dreaded floating green islands of water hyacinth was moving slowly towards me. According to my trusty guidebook it was surely alive with poisonous snakes and other creepy crawlies. I steered to avoid it and then made the turn into the anchorage. To my relief three or four boats were in fact actually swinging to their anchors. Ah! This looks more like it. Mad waving from one of the anchored boats which turned out to be Muneera, the Australians who had looked after Sparky for me when he was tiny. What a surprise! I found a good place to anchor and rowed over to tell them the sad news. Had a very welcome ice cold beer and exchanged news of our travels. Back on Speedwell I was surprised by a visit from Erwin and Irwina of the Red Harlekin who I first met in Surinam. They are anchored on the other side of the river. What a reception!
Friday, 30 May 2014
Ever since I arrived in Shell Bay I had been looking for a diesel mechanic who could recondition my old fresh water circulating pump for the engine. The new one which I had imported from the UK while in Chaguaramus was leaking badly. I had kept the old one as a spare but a year in a plastic bag in the bilge had not done it any good and the bearings appeared to have seized. After getting confusing and conflicting advice from many people I eventually found someone at Mar Marine, one of the marinas that fringe the bay. I gratefully left the pump in capable hands and then allowed myself to be lured into bringing Speedwell into the marina. A very reasonable monthly rate was agreed upon and soon I was snugly tied up to a comfy wooden dock with a backdrop of rainforest greenery, some of which had to be cut away to clear the mast.
I cleaned the mud off anchor, chain and deck and gave the mast of my valiant little boat a grateful pat.
June 7th, 2014 at 01:51
The more I read your blog , the more I want to cross the pond – thanks for the magnificent pics 🙂
Meeting up with old friends and catching up was always the highlights of an arrival 🙂
Am curious what you do about rodent invasion when tied up ?
Enjoy – looking forward to your next installment
Kris SV Footprints
June 8th, 2014 at 10:17
Hi Shirley, just spent a cold wet Sunday morning catching up on your whereabouts. Very bitter sweet as Louis and I had planned to spend the hurricane season in the Rio. What fun it would have been to share a few sundowners.Have mislaid youe email so do drop me a note. Have been working which is a great bore but helps to adjust and keep me focused while things wind up but reading the blog has stirred the wanderlust. I’m off to Portland in July for two months and then moving into my own little house in Oct and then I’ll reassess my situation and make plans for some one man adventures. Doing lots of hiking and climbing Enjoy the Rio Love Pat Aragon .