Posts Tagged ‘Balambangan’
Back to Kudat
Sunday, March 19th, 2023
March 2023
After spending a few days at Karakit on Banggi, the wind looked reasonable for a sail across to the neighbouring island of Balambangan.
At the north eastern end there is a big bay and it is possible to anchor on one side or the other depending on how the wind is blowing. On the SW side of the bay there are some barely discernable ruins of what was once an East India Company base. I was able to anchor fairly close in and the water was crystal clear. An easy row ashore and a magnificent beach of fine white sand. I enjoyed a long walk to the outermost point of the bay at low tide.
Then it was back to Banggi, where I got caught up in more bad weather. After a day of bouncing around at the end of my anchor chain in very strong winds, with more forecast, I decided to move about 5 miles further up the coast into a more protected spot at Mitford Harbour. It was directly to windward, of course, so I left Karakit at first light prepared to motor all the way while the wind was still manageable. I had to rely heavily on the satellite images that I had downloaded as, according to the rather sketchy Navionics charts, we were sailing overland for a large part of the way. Most of the route was fairly protected between the outlying islands and we had no problems negotiating the reefy patches. I found a good spot to anchor behind Pulau Laksiang and let out plenty of chain in anticipation of the fierce winds that were expected.
For the next two days the NE wind did not let up. With no wind instruments I can only judge it’s strength by the appearance of the water and surroundings. It must have been blowing a pretty steady 30 knots most of the time. I made use of the enforced stop by having another attempt at fixing the leaky oil sump on my engine. I had bought a good supply of steel epoxy while in Kudat, and after cleaning things up as best I could, I put another big patch over the problem area. I’m pleased to say, it looks as though I’ve fixed it at last.
I had stupidly left my sun awning up in the vain hope of catching some rainwater. The wind ripped some of the seams apart, which gave me another job to fill the time.
But at last, after two days, it calmed down and I was able to row ashore to the small settlement of Mitford Harbour. Just a few houses on stilts over the water and a concrete jetty under construction.
It was low water and I had to drag the dinghy ashore through the mud, which thankfully only reached to my ankles. But there was nowhere to rinse my feet and I had to carry on strolling up the road in my rather bedraggled state. Some boys watched me with interest and friendly smiles. A road followed the coast through the jungle and I walked, squelching along, hoping to find a shop to replenish my dwindling supplies. To my delight there actually was one. It had a few wooden steps up to the entrance, and as per the usual custom, the people inside had removed their shoes and left them on the verandah. I did the same, but my feet were so muddy, it might have been better to leave them on. Nothing was said, but I noticed some amused glances. I was very glad to find some fresh eggs and chose a good selection of junk food. Unfortunately no fresh fruit and veg. There was the usual discussion of where I had come from, how old I was, and was I really all alone? Of course, being such a small place, everyone had noticed the small yellow boat anchored nearby. Happy with my purchases I made my way back to Speedwell before the wind made it difficult again.
The next day I sailed back to Kudat and anchored off the Esplanade which proved to be very convenient and well protected. Gary had recommended it and was also anchored nearby. I was treated to a G&T on his boat at sundown.
It was a pleasure to wander around the market and shops in Kudat again and visit my favourite coffee shop and restaurant. I filled my diesel tanks and the small Chinese seafood restaurant where I could leave my dinghy allowed me to fill some jerry cans with water. This was a big help as there hasn’t been much rain lately.
Fully refuelled and restocked I set off again a few days later to explore an interesting-looking anchorage at the NE end of Sabah. A deep inlet which looked as though it should give protection from all winds. It was wonderfully peaceful and I was the only boat there. There were a few houses ashore and what looked as if it might be a small dive resort. I anchored over sand in 4m in blissful solitude.
