Walking Carriacou
Author: Shirlz
Tyrell Bay, Carriacou, is probably my favourite Caribbean anchorage. Big enough not to feel too crowded even if there are a lot of other boats. Of course, there will always be some who feel compelled to anchor uncomfortably close, but these are usually the big charter cats, who only stay for one night before moving on, anxious to stick to their tight schedule. Not much happens ashore. There are a few nice beach bars, eateries and small grocery shops and an ATM that sometimes works. A steady breeze keeps the bugs away and ensures that I get plenty of exercise on the longish row to the beach.
My walking friends, Joan and Grahame arrived soon after me and we spent many happy days exploring the island. The walks usually took us along sandy tracks winding along up and over the hills, giving magnificent views of the coastline with reefs and small islands.
Every household has a few goats or sheep and chickens which wander freely around nibbling at the sparse greenery. The sheep are hard to distinguish from the goats as they don’t have woolly coats but a lighter tropical covering. I was told that the sheep have a long droopy tail, while the goats can be identified by their short, perky, upright tails. They all looked on the skinny side. I loved watching the playful young kids and lambs gambolling about and dashing straight to their mothers when they became aware of us approaching.
One walk took us to the ruins of an 18th century sugar plantation at Belair. A stone sugar mill and ruined windmill where we unwittingly scared off a resident toucan. Wandering around the ruins of the big house evoked vivid imaginings of what it must have been like for the women living there coping with their elaborate corseted costumes in the sticky heat. Of course, there would have been an army of slaves to ease the way.
A herd of brown cows watched us as we walked past them to get a look at an historical stone well that had been built by a freed slave, then on down to Jew Bay where a cemetery is slowly being washed away by the encroaching sea.
A big green iguana on one of the tombstones, eyed me cautiously. It had been a long walk and we eagerly approached a welcoming bar close to the bus stop where we hoped to get some cold ones before the planned minibus back to the anchorage. Imagine my disappointment when we were told that they had no beer. A cold coke just didn’t hit the spot.
Another day we took two busses to Watering Bay on the Windward side of the island. We paid a visit to the boatyard where a traditional wooden boat was being built. Massive wooden ribs and planking.
Then a few miles walking along the track and a scramble down to Anse le Roche where the turtles come to lay their eggs. A perfect spot for a cooling swim.
Joan and Grahame decided to move on down to Grenada and we had a last walk along the very windswept southern coast, passing the old lime kiln at Dumfries. There were spectacular view of the small islands and reefs along the shore.
I also plan to move further south for the hurricane season, but am still waiting for my credit card to arrive from South Africa. It’s looking hopeful as I now have a tracking number and it has reached Antigua with an expected delivery date in a few days’ time.
June 22nd, 2016 at 05:08
Hi Shirlz
Thanks for the post. I look forward to your next one!