On to Martinique
Author: Shirlz
Friday, 3 May 2013
Ever since arriving in Grenada I had been agonising over whether to rush through the Caribbean so as to be able to head north to the Azores before the hurricane season became too much of a threat or relax and take my time. I dithered and fretted, studied the charts for alternatives and finally decided to linger in the SE Caribbean till June or July then head back to Trinidad for the rest of the season. The plan being to start out early enough next time to be able to explore all those islands I’d missed up to now. As there was still a bit of time in hand before having to stay constantly on the alert for hurricane warnings, I left Tyrrel Bay on Wednesday for a quick shopping trip up to Martinique.
The day was cloudy which suited me well, as my lack of a proper sun awning can make the cockpit unbearably hot in the full sun. Here and there black rain clouds were emptying into the sea but they all passed us by with room to spare. The sailing was magnificent and I continued happily along not overly concerned that my track was taking me a little downwind (and down-current) of my rhumb line to Fort de France. I assured myself that the wind would shift more to the East as promised by the grib forecast that I’d downloaded before leaving. But they lied! And so I had made the classic beginner-Caribbean-sailor’s mistake and was faced with a long hard motorsail against wind and current to get within reach of the islands again.
Mid-morning Thursday I worked out that it would be cutting it really fine to try and reach Martinique before dark so I headed in towards Rodney Bay at the Northern end of St Lucia instead. The wind had died apart from occasional strong rain-squalls and soon I was dubious about even making it to Rodney Bay. So the engine got a bit of exercise once more and thanks to the fact that my electric autopilot was working again I could shelter from the rain under the cockpit dodger and see clearly enough through the newly replaced window. Oh, the joy of these small blessings!
Just before sunset I anchored comfortably in the middle of the bay and went below to get out of the pouring rain and enjoyed a tot of Guyanese rum.
At first light the next morning I was off again but promised myself to stay longer on the return trip as it looked like a really good place.
This time I kept scrupulously to windward of the course and it was a beautiful day for a sail. Soon after lunch I was abeam of Diamond Rock. In the early 19th century when Britain and France were still battling each other for supremacy in areas of the Caribbean, it was named HMS Diamond Rock and served successfully as a warship guarding the approach to the Bay of Fort de France. According to English history they were forced to eventually leave the rock due to lack of food and water. The French version claims that they dumped casks of rum on the islet which led to a drunken surrender.
By the early afternoon I was anchored in Baie des Flamands overlooked by the massive fort.