Speedwell of Hong Kong

A funny thing happened on the way to Sapzurro

Friday, June 16th, 2017

We were motoring in an almost flat calm, doing a steady 4 knots and it looked as though we’d be able to get in before dark. In the hazy distance I thought I spotted an irregularity. Sure enough, through the binoculars, it looked like the superstructure of a big ship still hull down on the horizon. I had a feeling this might cause some delay. We were right on the border between Panama and Colombia and there was likely to be some Navy presence. I held my course and we slowly approached the ship, which was stationary. Just as we passed about a mile off its bow they called on the radio, which I had switched on hoping to get some AIS information about them. They were not transmitting an AIS signal which I found interesting. Of course I couldn’t make any sense of the radio call, but dutifully called back and about 10 minutes of confused, garbled and static-distorted radio talk in broken English/Spanish ensued. At last I was made to understand that they were a Colombian Navy vessel and wanted to board us for an inspection. I put the engine in neutral and six big, armed and uniformed men came alongside in a black inflatable. They were very polite and one spoke a little English. I handed over my papers and one of the men took photos of them with his phone. Another was on the radio relaying my particulars to headquarters.

Colombian Navy Ship

Now one of them must come aboard for the inspection. Big black boots clambered over the lifeline and clomped into the cockpit. Once below, he didn’t seem to know where to start. He unzipped a few of my cushions that are stuffed with winter clothes and just looked around before coming back to the crowded little cockpit. The English-speaker had also come aboard. I was intermittently using the engine to stop us from drifting too far from the mother ship and I noticed that the remaining four in the inflatable, who had not tied up to us, had floated some way off and had taken the cover off their big outboard engine while two of them were using paddles to try to get back to us. Attention was now diverted from the careful scrutiny of my passport and papers. The birth-date on my passport had caused some amazement and disbelief and they felt compelled to confirm it with me. Not only was I a female sailing alone, but an ancient crone to boot.

We motored over to the stricken inflatable and after more futile attempts to start the outboard, I agreed to give them a tow back to the ship as by now we had drifted about half a mile off. I was becoming a little concerned about the unnecessary delay which was putting my careful timing out. Speedwell gamely accepted the extra weight of the tow and we slowly progressed back to the ship. I released them fairly close to the intimidating side of the big ship, a little way short of the bow, and watched as they paddled safely back to the boarding ladder. We had parted on good terms with laughter and handshakes all round.

The boarding party after rescue

I didn’t hang about, but increased the revs and made it in to Sapzurro just before sunset, in the process proving that Speedwell is able to maintain 5 knots under power. Maybe the canal could still be a possibility.

Posted in Colombia, Cruising | No Comments »

Islands along the way

Wednesday, June 14th, 2017

On 18^th May I left Cartagena heading for the archipelago of Islas del Rosario about 20 miles away. The wind was very light and we had to do some motoring to get in before dark. I anchored off the southern shore of Isla Grande which seemed the better choice as there was a lot of coral on the northern side. The water was cleaner than in Cartagena but nothing spectacular. What wind there was came stubbornly from the south west. It was very light and the anchor was well dug-in in sand. We were in 3m of water with 25m of chain out. It might seem excessive but we were on a lee shore after all. As usual, we were the only boat there. I rigged up the cockpit awning and had a cooling swim, deciding to wait until the next day before going ashore. I checked my tablet but there seemed to be no internet.

I came ashore up a narrow creek

Next day I rowed ashore early in the morning and beached the dinghy up a narrow mangrove creek. There was a shady path leading across to the other side of the island through a scattered collection of houses and ending at a big, almost empty, eco-resort. Very attractive with open thatched palapas and simple cabañas. I had a look at the anchorage but wasn’t tempted to move the boat around. It would have been difficult for me to land the dinghy there as the swell breaks along the shore, regardless of wind direction. About an hour after getting back on board, the wind started to pick up and a nasty swell was making things rather uncomfortable. Soon it was blowing over 30 knots with spindrift off the top of the waves and I let out another 20m of chain. The ‘squall’ lasted all day but thankfully moderated in the evening. It was fortunate that I came back to Speedwell when I did, as I couldn’t have rowed against that wind and without the extra chain it’s very possible that she would have dragged. Just letting out the extra chain was quite a battle as I had to first winch in a few metres to unhook the snubber. Without the snubber the winch alone was unable to hold the chain. It was quite an enlightening experience.

I left the next day heading for Tintinpán, the biggest island in the San Bernardo archipelago, about 25nm away. Now there was hardly any wind and what there was was against us. Add to that a sea that was still unsettled after the previous day’s blow and we were going nowhere. I didn’t want to go back to the uncomfortable Isla Grande anchorage so l motored doggedly on. Thankfully the anchorage at Tintinpán gave much better protection and I spent a relaxing couple of days there enjoying the crystal clear water. I got my snorkel out and was able to do a bit of hull scrubbing. I was pleased to see that it was still looking quite respectable.

There were local fishermen in their dugout canoes casting throw nets as well as faster lanchas travelling between the islands. The main island has luxury holiday homes along the shore and there is a very small islet, absolutely cram-packed with small houses a short way off, where the permanent residents stay. It is reputed to be one of the most densely populated areas in the world. I didn’t go ashore. The Navionics charts show very little detail and all the islands are surrounded by shallow coral reefs.

The chain in 4m of water

Now it was on to Isla San Bernardo, another day-sail away. When I raised the anchor the chain caught around a small coral head. It was easy to see the problem as the water was absolutely clear and I was able to motor slowly around and dislodge it, hopefully without damaging the coral. We passed another small island along the way, Isla Perla, where I had hoped to make a lunch stop, but there was a bit of a breeze which would have made the only possible anchorage on a lee shore once again, so I came up close to have a look but decided to keep going.

Anchored off San Bernardo

A sand spit extends a long way to the south west off the tip of Isla San Bernardo and we rounded it about half a mile off in 4m. The sand spit does a wonderful job of protecting the big bay and we found a very peaceful anchorage in 5m on mud, hooked in behind the island. I could relax for a few days and not worry about sudden wind changes. It goes without saying that we were the only boat there. They say you should be careful what you wish for. This island also has a sprinkling of privately owned palm-thatched holiday houses along the waterfront, which are very well cared for by the local residents who live in more modest establishments among the mangroves. Tourist boats race across from the mainland bringing sightseers and scuba divers to explore the outer reefs. No shops or bars ashore.

A gentle downwind sail

I made a day-trip over to the small town of Berrugas only about 5 miles away across the bay. We had a lovely slow and gentle sail across with the wind just abaft the beam in flat water. What a treat. The approach is shallow from a long way out and we anchored in 3m about a third of a mile off. No sooner had we stopped than a canoe came out to us with 2 men paddling. They were interested to know where I was from and offered to take me ashore in the canoe. I was tempted, as it would save getting the dinghy down, but decided to decline the offer. It looked a bit wobbly and I always have to be careful about keeping my hearing aids dry.

A short while later I rowed ashore and the two who had come out to welcome me helped drag the dinghy up the beach. It was safely tied to a post under a shady awning and I set off to explore the village. Two little boys decided to be my guides to the nearest grocery shop. We walked along a sandy tree-lined main road to the centre of town where there were 3 or 4 small ‘tiendas’. I decided on the biggest one and they were able to sell me two tomatoes, an avocado, 2 mangoes, a carrot, 6 eggs and a bottle of coke for my rum in the evening. The two kids went happily on their way with a bag of chips each. Back at the waterfront I headed for the most promising looking small restaurant where a number of locals were hanging out. It was lunchtime and I had a plate of perfectly cooked fried fish, rice, plantain fritter and salad for the equivalent of less than 3 dollars. I was joined by an old fisherman and a young woman in a uniform. They were interested in the boat and how I managed to sail on my own. We struggled along with my broken Spanish but it was nice to have company for a change.

The supermarket in Berrugas

I returned to the anchorage at San Bernardo and after a few days of its calm uneventfulness I began to think that it might be more exciting to be on the move again. Isla Fuerte, about 35nm away, was the next logical stop. I had managed to download the PassageWeather.com 7-day wind forecast and there were no sudden changes predicted, just more of the same light winds coming from random directions. I’d filled the diesel tanks in Cartagena but had no idea where it would be possible to fill up again, so I had to avoid doing too much motoring. I set off after lunch, prepared to have a slow overnight trip and arrive before sunset the next day.

Isla Fuerte sunrise

Despite my good intentions we ended up motoring most of the way. There was about 1 knot of current against us and almost no wind. We had some respite at night when there was a light warm wind off the land for a few hours. As we neared Isla Fuerte there was a big slow swell rolling in from the North East and I wondered how it would affect the anchorage. I almost decided to bypass the island and just carry on to Portobello where I would be able to clear in to Panama, but we were so close now that I had to go in and take a look. I had some waypoints to get through the reef and they worked very well. Once inside, the water was flat calm and we were in a very pretty little bay. Time for coffee and toast for breakfast.

The fisherman’s beach where I got diesel

Isla Fuerte turned out to be one of the best stops so far. Again we were the only cruising boat there and it was easy to get ashore. There are no cars or roads on the island and it is criss-crossed with cool, shady, tree-lined paths. The only traffic consisted of pedestrians and donkeys with one or two bicycles and the occasional pig. The prepaid data time that I still had on my tablet gave me internet access. It was a short walk to the main village, Puerto Limón and the first thing I did was try to find out if diesel was available. I hadn’t realized that it was Sunday. The locals were relaxing in a plaza near the waterfront. Loud music blaring. Church must be over. They were friendly and welcoming. News travels fast in places like this and the little yellow boat had been spotted. To my happy surprise they could, indeed, sell me some diesel. Back at the boat I emptied the jerry cans into the main tank and rowed around to the fisherman’s beach where the diesel was. No pump of course, but it was siphoned out of a barrel into a bucket and then poured via a funnel into my cans. It looked clean enough and I would filter it before putting it in the main tank.

I spent three days at Isla Fuerte. I had read that there were sloths to be seen in the trees but never managed to spot them. The only sloth I have ever seen was in Domberg, Surinam. It had made the fatal mistake of spreading itself out for a snooze across the live electrical wires above the main street.

Giant trees are a tourist attraction on the island. One, El Tun-tun is fenced off, but the other, El Bongo, is the centrepiece of a small park. It was mango season and they were freely available scattered under many mango trees along the paths. It was wonderful to be in a place which has evolved to accommodate pedestrians rather than motor vehicles. Sometimes the paths were like long green tunnels. The animals: donkeys, pigs, dogs and chickens, seemed healthy and happy just free-ranging and living their lives, as I also try to do. Of course, the animals had their duties – donkeys carried heavy loads, dogs protected their owners and we all know what happens to pigs and chickens. So I’m happy enough with my lot.

A typical Isla Fuerte ‘street’

As I now felt more confident about the diesel situation, I decided to deviate a little from the direct route to Portobello and make a stop in Sapzurro which is right on the border with Panama. I set off early in the morning threading my way carefully back through the reefs. The wind was light but it was possible to lay the course. As darkness approached distant lightning lit up the sky all round. As it came nearer I could see jagged streaks striking the water. Just carry on and hope for the best. It reached us eventually with strong wind and torrential rain. I blessed the junk rig as I quickly reduced sail and turned up into wind to let it pass. No point in allowing the rain to come straight down the companionway. Soon we were on our way again under an almost half-moon.

Posted in Colombia, Cruising | 1 Comment »

Cartagena

Monday, May 29th, 2017

There were quite a few yachts anchored off Club Nautica, where you are allowed to use the dinghy dock. It was a short row, although I had to keep a sharp eye out for the fast water taxis that were constantly speeding about creating an enormous wake.

The anchorage at Cartagena

The port captain refuses to deal personally with arriving yachties making it essential to use an agent for the clearing in process and the woman in the club office helpfully phoned an agent for me who arrived within half an hour. Apart from having to pay US$120 for the service, it was quick and painless. I did not get a cruising permit as this would have cost an additional $120, but if I cleared out again within 12 days I could make short stops along the coast en route to Panama. That sounded OK to me as I didn’t want to spend too long in the nutrient rich waters of Cartagena harbour. As far as I could discover, all the other cruising yachts were heading up from Panama. There was still no one to compare notes with for the route I was taking.

The way into town

As soon as the official stuff was over, I set off to explore the old city. It was hot and humid, very much warmer than the weather I had become used to along the Eastern Caribbean islands. Sweat literally dripped off me as I strolled along, water bottle within easy reach in a side-pocket of my back pack. It’s a fairly short walk from the yacht club across an arched bridge over to the other side of the lagoon which gave a great view past the old fort of San Sebastian to the anchorage. Then it was down into a colourful, narrow street leading to the centre of town. I came out onto an enormous esplanade with a park on one side and a graceful old clock tower over a heavy stone archway at the far end.

The clock tower

All very impressive, but the really interesting parts were a bit further on where there are a bewildering number of beautiful old Spanish colonial buildings, small parks and plazas shaded with giant spreading ficus trees. Crowds of pigeons strutting about round imperialistic statues. Most of the parks and plazas have free, open Wi-Fi. I wandered through a museum chronicling the horrors of the inquisition. After that I needed a break and bought a big cup of freshly squeezed orange juice with ice from a street vendor for 1000 pesos (about 30c) and cooled off under a shady tree.

Flowery balconies

There is a maze of narrow side streets with lots of small hostels and eateries as well as luxury shops and jewellers displaying brilliant green emeralds. I drooled over a tennis bracelet of sparkling green gemstones. Wherever there is a blank wall it has been covered with wonderful graffiti and many of the upper level wooden balconies are draped with flowering creepers.

Narrow street with grafitti

Everywhere there was colour and strikingly off-beat design. My camera was working overtime. (How I wish I had a better one). I rounded off the day by walking back along the wide top of the ancient city wall which gave a great view of the rooftops on one side and the sea that I’d recently sailed on the other.

The top of the wall

On another day I rowed ashore early with my two 10 litre jerry cans to buy diesel from the nearest filling station. It was an easy walk along a smooth pedestrian/cycle track and my little trolley was a great help. It needed two trips to fill the main tank which I had last filled back in Martinique. Later I set off on a mission to find a replacement for my small 12V computer fan that keeps me cool at night. I bought it about 7 years ago in Brazil and it has given me faithful, low-amperage, cooling service almost continuously, but a day after arriving in the Colombian heat it decided that enough was enough and simply stopped. A few squirts of WD40 restored it for 2 days, but then it gave off a spiteful spark and died completely with a whiff of burning plastic. On my sightseeing trips I had explored the enormous covered market called Centro Comercial Getsemani which housed hundreds of small traders ranging from cell-phones to hair-extensions, interesting snack-food, clothing and computer paraphernalia. I was sure I’d be able to find what I needed. But no, the best on offer was a really tiny fan about 5cm across. Not good enough, but the helpful stall-keeper gave me detailed directions as to where I could find a more likely supplier.

I liked this one

I set off hopefully, away from the historical district to a more commercial part of town. No more tourists here, but crowds of real people going about their business. Then I was caught in a tropical downpour. Thunder and lightning, torrential rain. I joined a crowd sheltering in an arcade fronting one of the old buildings. Everyone frozen in a state of suspended animation waiting for the rain to stop. At last it did and life carried on. But some streets were flooded and crossing most roads involved a big leap over the streaming gutters, often helped by someone on the other side who saw my difficulty and would point at where the river was narrowest. At last I found the shop, called ‘Electronica’ on Avenida Daniel Lemaitre, and went in. It appeared to specialize in sound equipment, big speakers and amplifiers on display. I explained what I was looking for and was amazed and delighted to be met, not with a vacant and unbelieving stare, but a brisk inquiry as to whether it should be 12V or 110. She had exactly what I wanted and at a price that translated to US$5, I decided to invest in two. Each was carefully tested before I was allowed to leave. Back at the boat a few hours later, I wired it up and could be blissfully cooled again.

Posted in Colombia, Cruising | 2 Comments »

Towards Cartagena

Wednesday, May 17th, 2017

The busy fisherman’s beach

A typical sidestreet in Santa Marta

Santa Marta promenade

Anchored off the beach at Rodadero

Puerto Velero waterfront

Approaching Cartagena

Posted in Colombia, Cruising, Western Caribbean | 1 Comment »

On to Colombia

Wednesday, May 10th, 2017

I had read so many dire warnings about the rough sea conditions along the NE coast of Colombia that I was feeling rather anxious about starting out. I had a reasonable weather forecast but in order to reach my first safe harbour at Cabo de la Vela, 500 miles away, in good weather, I would have to be able to maintain at least 100 nm per day. Seeing as I usually estimate my trip times using an average speed of 3knots I would have to push it. When I left Ponce the wind was about 15-20 knots from the East. We raced along with the wind on the beam, despite a rough and bouncy sea. The ocean swell rolls in from the NE and crosses the wind waves coming from the east causing nasty confused water. I took a seasick pill just to be safe. The first day went well and we managed to maintain an average speed of 5knots. It was looking good. But the strong conditions were starting to take a toll on the rig. Over the next 3 days I had to heave-to four times in order to fix small breakages: two batten attachment lashings chafed through on separate occasions, a stitched tab for the attachment on yet another batten pulled apart, a small saddle screwed to the boom for the tack line came adrift. Each time I needed to clip on and only use one hand to replace lashings, stitching or screws while trying to ignore the rather exciting movement of the boat and hang on for dear life with the other. Once again I was thankful for the ease with which it is possible to heave-to with Speedwell.

The Navik back in action

A rather more serious breakage happened just before sunset on day 3. I was below taking a short rest and the movement was quite rough but steady. Suddenly I felt a change and things seemed ominously quiet. Then we suddenly gybed. I dashed up on deck to see what had happened and to my dismay saw that the long connecting rod on the Navik self-steering gear had come adrift. Oh well, it had happened before and fortunately I had a spare. So we hove-to once again and I perched on the stern rail and unscrewed the Navik to bring it inside. Fortunately I was able to remember where I had stowed the spare and we were soon back in action again. I thanked my lucky stars that all these mishaps had occurred during daylight hours.

Dawn approaching Cabo de la Vela

Day 4 and we were approaching the other side. It might be possible to stop at Aruba if the weather turned nasty but I really didn’t want to have to to this, as they feel that South Africans should have a visa (which I don’t have) and their harbour fees are exorbitant. I steered towards the small Archipelago of Monjes which is part of Venezuela and could provide refuge in extremis. But things didn’t look too bad so I bravely kept going, heading along the coast of the Guajira peninsula. There was a fairly big swell but nothing too horrendous. As the sun came up we rounded Cabo de la Vela and anchored in the flat water of Ensenada Huaritcheru. Fishermen were out in their open boats. It was a beautiful scene.

I tidied up the sail and had a few hours sleep.

Kite boarders out in the strong afternoon wind

It was too windy to even think about rowing ashore so I spent the rest of the day sorting things out aboard. Kite boarders were enjoying the breeze and the flat water. Some whizzed by really close to have a look at us. We were the only cruising boat there. What a change from the Caribbean.

A perfect beach for Bokkom

Next morning it was flat calm. I got the dinghy in the water and took the opportunity to row ashore. A perfect beach for landing with no waves breaking. I took a long walk along the water’s edge. I hadn’t expected to arrive in a desert area. I imagined Colombia to be all tropical rain forest and lush greenery. This was amazing. Wonderful dry air for a change. There are a lot of simple shelters all along the beach, mostly open sided with palm thatched roofs and posts for slinging hammocks. All catering for visitors and weekenders coming to enjoy the superb kite-boarding conditions. A narrow sandy track follows the coastline.

A deserted desert beach

Every now and then I stopped to watch the local Wayuu Indian fishermen and their families busily cleaning the morning’s catch. Any bits and pieces left on the sand were quickly taken care of by the Crested Caracaras that looked on expectantly. Everyone seemed friendly and identified me with the little yellow boat anchored in the bay. One of them wanted to swap hats with me. He had a rather splendid panama job but I’m attached to my special hat and couldn’t bring myself to give it up. No offence. Thumbs up sign. On I wander.

An oystercatcher gives me the eye

Further along I spotted a beautiful American Oystercatcher being followed by a little sanderling and a pair of turnstones. Next there was a gaggle(?) of cormorants who took to the water when I came too close. Pelicans were fishing a short way off and there were terns and frigatebirds. Oh, why hadn’t I brought my binoculars?

Caracaras cleaning up after the fishermen

I was tempted to keep walking and visit the lighthouse up on the hill, but the wind was picking up again and whitecaps were starting to appear on the water. Time to head back. It would be a fast downwind row and heaven help me if I got blown past the boat. Apparently, this is the normal daily pattern – the wind picks up really strongly starting at about 11am reaching a peak around 2-3 in the afternoon and then dying down again at night. Nevertheless, the bay provided a very comfortable anchorage completely protected from the swell.

Huaraticheru Bay with cormorants

Posted in Birds, Colombia, Cruising, Junk Rig | No Comments »

Ponce, Puerto Rico

Tuesday, May 9th, 2017

I don’t have an actual cruising guide to Puerto Rico but from my charts it looked as if Puerto Patillas on the South East coast would be a good overnight stop on the way to Ponce. It was an easy 20 odd miles from Esperanza, Vieques, and we arrived in the early afternoon after a smooth sail between the islands. The anchorage is tucked in behind a big reefy area and I sailed carefully around it rather than trust what could have possibly been a shorter approach between the shallow patches. The wind was quite strong so I preferred to be cautious. There were a handful of other yachts anchored in the wonderfully protected bay, most of them appeared to be local boats. It was fairly shallow and I anchored in sand in just under 3m. The name is misleading as it is not really a port, just a scattering of small bars and restaurants and a stretch of beach with palm trees. The beach and swimming area were crowded as it was still the Easter weekend. I wanted to be able to contact the bank to sort out my problem as quickly as possible, so I couldn’t stay, and regrettably had to push on again early the next morning.

The next day started out with a gentle breeze and we drifted out of the anchorage at dawn just managing 2 knots with the full sail up. By 10am I was reefed right down and racing along at hull speed. No need to worry about getting in before dark!

The approach to Ponce harbour is well marked and it was a relief to get into sheltered water after the hectic day’s sailing. It took two attempts to get the anchor to set properly and I decided to wait until tomorrow before going ashore.

The boardwalk on a weekday

The very exclusive Ponce Yacht and Fishing Club does not allow cruising boats to use their facilities. At the head of the bay there is a long boardwalk lined with restaurants and I rowed along hopefully looking for a place to tie up the dinghy. The designated dinghy dock was not practical for me and would only be my last resort. It was my lucky day: as I rowed along to the extreme opposite end of the board walk, someone called to me. It was a local sailor who had come past admiring Speedwell the previous afternoon. He got permission for me to tie up to one of the docks of a smaller fishing club. It was an ideal spot for me and I was very grateful.

Shady path next to the motorway

However, once ashore, I soon came to realise that this would not be the easiest place to get around. I had become so used to the ubiquitous minibuses in the rest of the Caribbean that I assumed there would be no problem getting into town. Wrong. The anchorage is surrounded by an enormous ‘recreational area’ which becomes a wasteland during the week and only comes alive at the weekend. It is designed for people who have cars. Very wide barren roads and acres of parking to be trudged across. I checked the map app on my tablet to find the nearest place to get some prepaid data time and started walking the 6.5km to the closest AT&T branch in Plaza de Caribe, a big glossy mall. I am used to walking but it was a long, hot, boring walk along the side of the motorway. Although, thankfully, and unlike other motorways that I have walked beside, there is a smooth, well-maintained pedestrian/cycle track running all the way along. Even some small trees to provide a bit of shade. I was quite impressed, despite the fact that the trees were mostly super-toxic manchineels.

Plaza las Delicias

The interesting part of town is centered around the Plaza las Delicias, nearly 8km from the anchorage.. I walked it once and then decided I might just be able to afford the taxi fare. It was definitely worth the trip as it is a wonderful contrast to the characterless shopping malls, motorways and parking areas that dominate the area. I enjoyed wandering about admiring the old buildings and the friendly, laid back atmosphere. I was included in a free tour of one of the old houses and then a trolley ride around all the points of interest. Just like a real tourist.

The Old Firestation

But time was moving on and I was keen to sail over to Cartagena as soon as there was a break in the rather rough weather. I was not getting anywhere with the bank so I decided to postpone trying to satisfy their demand for a proof of permanent residence and get ready to leave. I would need an official exit document to show the immigration authorities in Colombia, so next day I headed for the US Customs and Border Patrol people.

A typical street in the old port

The customs office is in the old port, a mere 3.5 km walk from the anchorage. The old port is a bit of a ghost town with streets lined with solid old buildings, many of them gutted inside but with the exterior walls painted in vibrant colours. Some house engineering works or provide parking for customers. There weren’t many cars around. The customs building itself is beautifully maintained and I was graciously received. No long noisy queue to join. A pleasant conversation with the port captain who was interested in my travels. I got the necessary documents and was ready to leave.

Couldn’t resist showing this beautiful green iguana at the dinghy dock

Posted in Caribbean | No Comments »

Spanish Virgin Islands

Thursday, April 20th, 2017

Another perfect sail from St Thomas to Culebra. I had grown accustomed to the tumultuous seas that run between the islands in the south-eastern Caribbean, caused by the strong current that rushes through the channels coming up against an opposing trade-wind. It was a pleasant surprise to have a smooth crossing between two islands and the wind was from astern which is what the junk rig excels at.

There was a well-marked channel through the reefs and into the big protected anchorage at Ensenada Honda. We sailed gently in and found a good place to drop the anchor. I recognised a few familiar boats following the same track as us. I needed to clear in with customs as although Puerto Rico belongs to the US it is not a duty free zone like the other US Virgin Islands. So it was a shortish walk to the airport to do the necessary and get a cruising permit.

Once again finding an easy place to get ashore was a bit of a problem. There are no floating dinghy docks in this part of the Caribbean and the designated ‘dinghy docks’ are all built with monster inflatables in mind. Usually much too high for me to even get a good grip on the wharf to pull myself up and out of the dinghy. Not to mention that I always need a stern anchor to stop the dinghy from slipping right under the dock and possibly getting crushed by the passing wake of a power boat. If at all possible I try to find a small beach to land the dinghy even if it means a bit of a walk back to the village centre. On my first attempt at getting ashore in Ensenada Honda I used a tiny patch of sand quite close to the town dock. Only problem was that the only way to get back to the road was to wade knee deep through the mangroves. The next time I went ashore I rowed a bit further up the bay and found a public access point which was a bit scruffy but much easier to get out of.

The lifting bridge

There is a narrow channel leading out of the lagoon to the bay of Sardinas on the south western side of the island. A lifting bridge across the channel no longer works, but makes an interesting feature. The channel is quite shallow and I rowed through under the bridge one morning to have a look at the other side. It opens out into a very peaceful lagoon surrounded by mangroves and small bars and restaurants. People were fishing, a heron waited patiently for something tasty to swim into range. I just sat in my dinghy and watched. Once through the lagoon you come out into the big Sardinas bay with a ferry boat dock and an interesting statue made of wooden tiles. I mooched around for a bit and rowed back.

Wooden tile statue

Another day I walked across to Flamingo Beach on the north coast. Surely one of the most beautiful beaches I have seen, even comparing it to some of those in Brazil. Clear turquoise water and miles of white powdery sand. Unspoilt shoreline and not very crowded even though it was a weekend. The only jarring notes were a succession of dive boats bringing hordes of trainee scuba divers and while I was sitting peacefully on the sand two police beach buggies motored past, perilously close to me.

Flamingo Beach

I decided to move on to the island of Vieques, about 20 miles south and anchored in Bahia Salina del Sul at the south eastern end. The island had been used by the US for gunnery practice until 2003 and as a result it is still an unspoilt tourist destination. The bay where I first anchored is still off limits for going ashore and big signs warn of the dangers of unexploded missiles. I was quite happy to stay on board and I watched a herd of wild horses grazing and moving along the shore, passing close to the warning signs. Not much later I was startled by an incredibly loud bang and saw a big cloud of smoke a little way inland. I couldn’t help wondering if the horses had set something off. It certainly made me realize that the warnings were for real.

Wild horses at Salina del Sur

My next stop was at Bahia de la Chiva, a beautiful place, again I was the only boat there – what a difference to the crowded places I had been in recently. I would have loved to linger and really explore all the possibilities but unfortunately I had to keep moving as I had just found out about an urgent problem with my bank that had to be sorted out. So I could only stay overnight before heading on to Puerto Ferro which is supposed to have amazing bio-luminescence. Well, it was a nice quiet and protected anchorage, surrounded by mangroves but the light-emitting sea-creatures must have been taking time off. There were some faint sparkles but nothing like the bright phosphorescence that I sometimes see on a dark night at sea. Still, it was a pleasant stop and I got the kayak out for a paddle around the enclosed bay.

Vieques coat of arms

Then it was on to Esperanza, a small town with lots of beach bars and restaurants. The bay is split with two possible anchorages and the free guide book, that I had downloaded, recommended the smaller one. I crept carefully in as it seemed rather shallow and finally dropped the anchor in just under 3m. A few minutes later a slightly manic ‘anchorage warden’ raced over to tell me that it would be better to move to the other side where everyone else was anchored. Seems that there was going to be a lot of jet-ski activity in the little bay because of the holidays. It didn’t take much to convince me to move.

Esperanza waterfront

I suddenly realized that it was the easter weekend and the place was hopping. The campsite was pretty full and happy families thronged the waterfront. I took a stroll along the beautiful ‘paseo’ and stopped at a bar for a cold beer on the way back.

Early the next morning I set off for Puerto Patillas on the south western end of Puerto Rico from where I could easily reach Ponce by the end of the weekend and sort out the bank problem.

Posted in Caribbean, Cruising | 1 Comment »

St Thomas

Thursday, April 13th, 2017

I left St Croix at 6 in the morning so as to be sure to arrive at St Thomas in daylight. The sun was barely up and I gently negotiated the marked passage through the reef. I needn’t have bothered to leave so early as the wind was a delightful ENE F4 and the current was helping a little. It was a perfect sail with the wind on the beam. As I approached the islands I decided to anchor back in Rendezvous Bay, St John for the night and relax before braving the unknown (to me) and busy anchorage at Red Hook, St Thomas.

Again, there was only one other boat in the bay and the water was beautifully calm and clear. I watched an enormous turtle slowly paddle past the boat. It would have made a wonderful photo but I knew from past experience that if I went below for the camera the opportunity would be lost. So I just watched and enjoyed the sight.

Next day it was a short, fast, downwind sail to Red Hook. The anchorage looked pretty crowded and bouncy with constant ferry traffic. Not a place I would normally choose to stop in but fairly convenient for Budget Marine where I hoped to get a copy of The Panama Cruising Guide by Eric Bauhaus.

A Gazelle at Red Hook

To my surprise, I spotted Sean on his small boat, anchored in a good spot reasonably close in. I passed nearby to say ‘hello’ and he said he was on the point of leaving. I made a slow circle round the anchorage and watched him get the anchor up and sail away, tacking through the crowded bay with casual aplomb. I nipped in and gratefully took his place. Another interesting boat that I saw in the bay was a junk rigged Colvin Gazelle with the romantic name of ‘Lord Byron’s Revenge’. A beautiful schooner which conjured up rather wistful memories of the boat that I had originally planned to go cruising in.

It was a downwind row ashore (not a good thing as it would be a battle getting back) and I chose to stop at the nearest place to tie up the dinghy which was next to a marina that had been ruined by a hurricane some time ago. There is a friendly bar called Lat 18 still operating and they gave me directions for getting to the main road. It was a longish walk to Benner Bay over the hill and I found Budget Marine. The book I wanted would have to be FedExed from St Martin at astronomical cost if I wanted it in less than 3 weeks. Oh well, I’ll just have to manage without that new bikini.

Main shopping street in Charlotte Amalie

While waiting for the book to arrive I took a local bus in to Charlotte Amalie, the capital of the USVI. It was great riding on the open sided bus along the twisting hilly road to town. I got off at the big IGY marina at the Eastern end of town and followed the waterside pedestrian way into the historical district. I had a good view of the bay and it looked as though it could be quite a reasonable place to anchor, although there didn’t seem to be many places to leave the dinghy ashore. The main street in town is a shopper’s paradise with all the luxury brands, precious jewellery, diamonds, electronic equipment and works of art. I walked along just window shopping. Touts stand outside on the pavement trying to lure you inside. ‘No money! Just admiring’. ‘No problem, have a nice day!’. ‘Where you from?’

It was a hot day and I found a place to sit down in a shady alleyway. Obviously still too close to the luxury part of town. I was charged $9.50 for a coconut and lime drink. Cooled and chastened, I carried on.

Rough sketch of a ‘real’ bus

When I tried to catch a bus back to Red Hook I learned that they only travel one way, so I would have to complete the circle going all the way round. It was a chance to see a bit more of the island. A woman at the bus stop also explained to me that the only way to tell the ‘real’ buses from the special tourist buses was by checking the passengers. If they were all white and the bus was not crowded, then it was a chartered tourist bus and would not stop. The real buses would be jam-packed with mainly black faces. That explained why so many buses had been just passing me by.

The book arrived as promised and I was very happy with it. Now I feel a lot more confident about navigating in the San Blas Islands The Navionics charts don’t show much detail and I have been told that they are unreliable in places.

The busy runway at Brewer’s Bay

Next day I thankfully left the friendly but less than comfortable anchorage at Red Hook and moved around to Brewer’s Bay on the south coast. A wonderfully protected spot in the lee of the airport runway. Due to the regular take-offs and landings of the planes, the Virgin Islands Guide describes it as ‘..less than an idyllic tropical escape from civilization’, but in my opinion all those have disappeared anyway, overwhelmed by the crowds of moored charter catamarans, jet-skis, ferryboat traffic, kite-boarders, et al. Apart from the planes, Brewer’s Bay was a great anchorage and I left rather reluctantly after only 2 nights there as I was becoming concerned at how quickly time seemed to be passing and I wanted to be crossing to Cartagena before the end of May and still wanted to spend some time in Puerto Rico.

Posted in Caribbean, Cruising | No Comments »

St Croix

Sunday, April 2nd, 2017

After a quick tour of the harbour, looking for a place to anchor, I chose the area opposite the Altona Lagoon. Plenty of room and a bit away from the crowds. The slightly better protected anchorage behind Protestant Cay is really crowded with moorings and there is a lot of traffic, including seaplanes taking off and landing. The only snag was that is was a long row to get ashore. The most convenient place for me to use was nearly half a mile away at the small beach in Gallows Bay. A local fisherman showed me the best place to land the dinghy. It worked well for me. No big inflatables to overwhelm my little craft.

A handy beach for my dinghy

One morning, as I was about to touch down on the sand, my oar narrowly missed an enormous tarpon which was foraging about in the shallows. There are lots of these beautiful fish in the harbour and I loved watching them from the board walk that runs along the waterfront.

One of the beautiful sheltered pavements

Walking round the historical part of Christiansted is like stepping back in time. Graceful old buildings, well preserved but not to the extent that you feel you are in Disneyland. The Danes, who were responsible for most of the early construction, appreciated the need for shelter from the tropical sun and rain and most of the walkways are shaded. It’s the dry season now but they must really come into their own when the rains start.

A government building decorated for the centenary

My visit happened to coincide with the 100^th anniversary of the transfer of the islands to the US after they were sold by the Danes for $25 million in 1917. I had a good view of the impressive fireworks display on the night of the 31^st March.

Blurry fireworks

I took a tour around the big fort which gave good views of the harbour, and was fascinated to read an information poster in one of the cell-like rooms, about the mother of Alexander Hamilton who was incarcerated there (the mother, that is) by an irate abandoned husband. She sounded like a very interesting woman. More here if you are interested.

View from Fort Christian

My water tanks were getting low and I was thinking about taking on some water at the marina. With perfect timing a heavy night-time downpour filled all my containers plus the dinghy. No more worries and all the washing done.

The plan is to spend the coming hurricane season in the Western Caribbean exploring the coast of Panama. I had been putting off buying the essential guide book by Eric Bauhaus, assuming I’d be able to get one in the Virgin Islands. Unfortunately it was not available in St Croix and one that I found via Amazon had an expected delivery time of 3 months. Ouch! So I will have to backtrack to St Thomas and try there.

Posted in Caribbean, Cruising | 1 Comment »