Speedwell of Hong Kong

Culion Island

Author: Shirlz

Wednesday, 1st November 2023

I  had been carefully watching the ‘Windy’ forecast and now looked like a good time to head further north with light to moderate Easterly winds and possibly even something from the south. 

I waited for the tide to turn and start flooding as I had to get through the channel out of the lagoon at Araceli. A nasty rainsquall kept me waiting until after 11, but was a great opportunity to collect enough rainwater to fill my  tanks again. Soon the sun came out and we set off, with the passage through the sandbanks clearly visible. Friendly locals waved me on my way.

I was heading for Culion Port on the NE coast of Culion Island, nearly 100 miles further north. The moon was still almost full and I was looking forward to a cool moonlight sail.

The wind was helping us, but wasn’t very strong and I would have to motorsail most of the way to reach Culion before the next week of fierce NE winds started. There wasn’t as much traffic as on the trip to Araceli and I was able to take regular 20 minute catnaps through the night.

At about 2300 I was passing east of Cabuluan Island, which might have been a possible place to anchor if the weather had turned against me.

Thursday, 2nd November

When I reached the southern tip of Coron Island I was stunned by the magnificent sight of its dramatic cliffs. I had become accustomed to the mellow mangrove coastal scene. This was a different world.

Turning NW into Coron Bay for the approach to Culion, I had enough wind behind me to kill the engine and was able to sail the rest of the way. What a lovely end to the trip. With the engine off, I was able to set up the faithful old Navik and it performed superbly.

It was late afternoon by the time I reached the entrance to Culion Port and the low sun was shining in my eyes, making it a bit tricky to judge the depth by the colour of the water. So total reliance on the Navionics chart. It didn’t let me down and soon I was anchored deep in the little bay within an easy row of Tasman II who had arrived a few days earlier from Coron.

Culion was used as an isolation island for lepers until the cure was eventually found last century. Now the leprosy hospital is open to the general public and is known to provide the best medical care in the area.  We visited the leprosy museum and were taken for a historical walking tour of the town. Many cured survivors of the disease are still living here.

The town itself is spread along the coastline and up the steep hillside. Narrow stairways and interesting shady alleys. Lots of small shops and eateries.

I walked along the coastal road with magnificent views of the clear water and mountains and many small fishing bancas. I loved the rock-walled, semi-ruined saltwater swimming pool.

Some of the houses are built with traditional materials, woven bamboo wall panels and beautiful capiz shell windows.

The nearest place for me to take my dinghy ashore is very close to the entrance to the old leper cemetery. From there it’s a pleasant half-hour walk into town with many interesting little shops along the way. Friendly people all curious to know where I come from.

Tags: Culion

This entry was posted on Saturday, November 11th, 2023 at 00:43 and is filed under Cruising, Palawan, Philippines. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.