Speedwell of Hong Kong

Culion Island

Saturday, November 11th, 2023

Wednesday, 1st November 2023

I  had been carefully watching the ‘Windy’ forecast and now looked like a good time to head further north with light to moderate Easterly winds and possibly even something from the south. 

I waited for the tide to turn and start flooding as I had to get through the channel out of the lagoon at Araceli. A nasty rainsquall kept me waiting until after 11, but was a great opportunity to collect enough rainwater to fill my  tanks again. Soon the sun came out and we set off, with the passage through the sandbanks clearly visible. Friendly locals waved me on my way.

I was heading for Culion Port on the NE coast of Culion Island, nearly 100 miles further north. The moon was still almost full and I was looking forward to a cool moonlight sail.

The wind was helping us, but wasn’t very strong and I would have to motorsail most of the way to reach Culion before the next week of fierce NE winds started. There wasn’t as much traffic as on the trip to Araceli and I was able to take regular 20 minute catnaps through the night.

At about 2300 I was passing east of Cabuluan Island, which might have been a possible place to anchor if the weather had turned against me.

Thursday, 2nd November

When I reached the southern tip of Coron Island I was stunned by the magnificent sight of its dramatic cliffs. I had become accustomed to the mellow mangrove coastal scene. This was a different world.

Turning NW into Coron Bay for the approach to Culion, I had enough wind behind me to kill the engine and was able to sail the rest of the way. What a lovely end to the trip. With the engine off, I was able to set up the faithful old Navik and it performed superbly.

It was late afternoon by the time I reached the entrance to Culion Port and the low sun was shining in my eyes, making it a bit tricky to judge the depth by the colour of the water. So total reliance on the Navionics chart. It didn’t let me down and soon I was anchored deep in the little bay within an easy row of Tasman II who had arrived a few days earlier from Coron.

Culion was used as an isolation island for lepers until the cure was eventually found last century. Now the leprosy hospital is open to the general public and is known to provide the best medical care in the area.  We visited the leprosy museum and were taken for a historical walking tour of the town. Many cured survivors of the disease are still living here.

The town itself is spread along the coastline and up the steep hillside. Narrow stairways and interesting shady alleys. Lots of small shops and eateries.

I walked along the coastal road with magnificent views of the clear water and mountains and many small fishing bancas. I loved the rock-walled, semi-ruined saltwater swimming pool.

Some of the houses are built with traditional materials, woven bamboo wall panels and beautiful capiz shell windows.

The nearest place for me to take my dinghy ashore is very close to the entrance to the old leper cemetery. From there it’s a pleasant half-hour walk into town with many interesting little shops along the way. Friendly people all curious to know where I come from.

Tags: Culion
Posted in Cruising, Palawan, Philippines | 4 Comments »

A Move to Araceli

Saturday, October 28th, 2023

October 2023

The winds were starting to become more fickle as we entered the transition period between the SW and NE monsoons. I had somehow managed to leave things a bit late and needed to start moving north before it became too difficult. I love my junk rig, but it doesn’t perform all that well to windward.

Sunday, 14th October 2023

I left the harbour at Puerto Princesa early, hoping to be able to sail most of the way to Santa Lourdes in Honda Bay. It was not to be. First problem was a really heavy downpour which got the visibility down to one (small) boatlength. The heavy rain lasted about an hour and I had to reef down in the squall. When the rain stopped, so did the wind. Oh well, the house battery was getting rather low so the engine would be put to good use. at about 10 o’clock a light southerly breeze picked up and we sailed gently along for a few hours making from 1 to 2 knots. It was good to be out sailing again. A very wet and bedraggled brown booby landed on the solar panel to get his feathers sorted out. He must have been caught in the deluge.

Tasman II had arrived in Honda Bay the day before and it was good to see them again. They left the next day heading for Dumaran Island with a few stops in between. I would have liked to do the same, but was still waiting for my passport to be returned with my 6-month visa extension. It should only be a few days.

I moved across the bay to anchor off Canon Island which was a more peaceful place to stay over the weekend, as the Santa Lourdes dock gets very busy with tourist bancas.

Tuesday, 24th October

At last my passport was ready for collection and I caught a jeepney into town. The ride took less than half an hour each way and soon I had my new visa and was back on board. I had also managed to pick up some fresh fruit and vegetables. Still plenty of time to sail to Fondeado Island as my next hop northward.

I threaded my way along between the islands and reefy patches. There are also a lot of big bamboo fish traps dotted about. It was only a 13nm trip and by 1600 I was at the NW corner of Fondeado, where there is a recommended anchorage. It was pretty deep and the best I could manage was 16m. I had been looking forward to watching the flying foxes setting off on their evening foraging trip, but for some reason there was no sign of them this time.

25th October

The forecast was for very light winds and I was going to have to motorsail to reach my next planned stop at the Verdes Islands before dark. I had the full sail up and it was looking really good. I had made a few tiny adjustments to the lines and it seemed to be setting better, with the bottom panel completely raised rather than sort of sagging a bit.

The mast lift, a line that comes from the top of the mast and loops around the mast and boom to hold the sail in when reefed had always had an annoying tendency to get caught around the battens on the wrong side of the sail when the full sail was raised, as then it was no longer under tension and could easily swing around. I seem to have solved the problem by attaching a length of thick bungee from the loop down to a handy cleat on the tabernacle. I’m interested to see how well this is going to work.

We were abeam the channel leading to the anchorage between North and South Verde Islands at about 1500. The forecast showed calm conditions for a few more days and it seemed a pity to waste them with strong NE winds soon to start. I decided to keep moving and head straight for Araceli on Dumaran Island about 50 nm further NE. There was an almost full moon, so it should be a beautiful and cool sail. During the day it can get extremely hot in the cockpit, even in the shade of my tiny awning. I keep my garden-sprayer handy, filled with fresh water and when it becomes unbearable I can cool down with a refreshing spritz.

The sea was glassy smooth and occasionally a flotilla of small fishing boats would appear, shimmering like mirages. They usually mark the shallower patches of water. We were keeping within a few miles of the coast and I was enthralled by the sight of the deep green jungle-clad mountains coming right down to the water. Magnificent scenery. I removed my hearing aids when the noisy rumbling of the engine started to become annoying. The sail was adding about half a knot to our speed, just maintaining 3.5 knots which would give us a dawn arrival time at Araceli. The electric autopilot was doing a great job. These were impossible conditions for the Navik.

There was a fair amount of big ship traffic in both directions, but we seemed safely inshore of their track. I had the AIS on which would hopefully alert them to our presence.

26th October

0400
It had been a peaceful night but I had only managed a couple of 10-minute cat naps as there were too many big ships and fishing boats around. The moon had set but the welcoming flashing white light marking Langoy Island at the entrance to Araceli bay was in sight and made a wonderful point to steer by. According to the chart it has a range of 16 miles and a period of 10 seconds. It was actually flashing every 4 seconds but the range was at least as good as advertised.

As so often happens, we were struck by a very strong black squall just before turning in. Torrential rain. The flashing light disappeared. I quickly reefed down to 3 panels and had to hand steer as the autopilot was squealing it’s dismay and sending us in circles. Fortunately it was soon over and we sailed in through some small islands and anchored off the beach in the big bay at 0730.

The plan was to move into the lagoon where there is a more protected anchorage, but first I needed to get a few hours sleep as the entrance is through a winding channel between sandbanks and I was really struggling to stay awake.

1300

After passing out for a few hours, I had a quick snack and was ready to tackle the lagoon entrance. The tide was still rising, which is always a good thing in these situations. I had some wonderful satellite images of the channel and we had no problem getting through. I found a good spot to anchor in about 7m.

I decided to just relax for the rest of the day and find my way ashore tomorrow. 

Friday, 27th October

I had noticed a small beach in front of the stilt houses ashore and thought it would be a good place to land the dinghy. But when I set off, I realized that the tide had risen and the beach had disappeared. Oh dear. I rowed along the shoreline and a man beckoned me in to a spot between two bancas. I’ve become quite expert at negotiating the spaces between their outstretched arms and soon we were safely tied to a nearby small tree and ushered through the pretty garden of one of the houses. I asked about diesel and it seemed I had come to exactly the right spot. I’ll bring my jerry cans with me next time.

Now I just wanted to go for a walk to do some exploring and stretch my legs.

It was a hot and sunny day and I was glad to have my little collapsible umbrella-sunshade. I wasn’t the only one, it seems to be the standard way to cope with the hot sun. Not that there were that many other walkers about.  I was admiring a big spread of brown rice drying out in the sun next to the road, and was told that it’s grown locally. Later I saw more spread out on a tarp on the beach.

Then there was the cool looking snooker room on the corner to the main road. I stopped to take a picture of some fish drying in the sun and was befriended by the shopkeepers they belonged to.

I walked to the end of the wharf where big ships can tie up and was approached by a ‘tourist guide’ who tried to set me up with a selection of island hopping boat tours. I tried to explain that I had my own boat. In desperation he then tried to sell me a turtle. Any size I wanted. For eating. I tried not to appear too shocked and moved along.

I decided to take a walk along the beach and after a while reached a magnificent area with a white sandbar and crystal clear water and only a flock of sandpipers for company. It was on a breezy corner of the island and wonderfully cool.

It looks like I’ll be here for a few more days, as there is some strong NE forecast followed by more promising winds later in the week.

Tags: Dumaran, junk rig, Palawan, Philippines
Posted in Cruising, Palawan, Philippines | 1 Comment »

Exploring Honda Bay

Tuesday, September 12th, 2023

September 2023

I had grown comfortable with my routine of busy restocking trips to the market while anchored at the Fish Port in Puerto Princesa, and quiet solitary retreats to the Abucayan Inlet. Further north the too frequent typhoons were not an encouragement. It was becoming just a bit too easy. Time to move on. But those typhoons.. September is supposed to be the worst month.

Honda Bay, just a short distance north of Puerto Princesa might still be a safe enough place to explore. My previous visit there had been cut short by the problem I had had with my internet connection which is what I depend on for getting a weather forecast and typhoon warnings. Maybe I’m being over-cautious, but typhoons/cyclones/hurricanes are definitely best avoided. Especially by a little old lady on a little old boat.

After a final shopping spree and another 2-month visa renewal I had a gentle downwind sail most of the way to Fondeado Island towards the far end of Honda Bay. The wind died completely as I turned in towards the island and I had to get the engine started. And then, as I was contemplating exactly where I should anchor, a strong squall came through blasting the anchorage from the west.  Oh dear. I still had the sail up and thought it might be better to try a different anchorage with more protection from that direction. I tried heading further into the bay but now we were struggling to make progress against the strong wind and heavy chop, trying to avoid unknown obstacles, and simultaneously trying to plot a new course. It wasn’t working.

I turned back to Fondeado where two local fishing boats were already anchored and reasoned that if they were happy there it was probably not such a bad option. It was at the bottom of the tide and the sand banks and coral surrounding the island were easy to see. I dropped the anchor in 15m and let out 50m of chain. I would have preferred to let out more but the chain had become twisted up in the chain locker and jammed in the hawespipe.  Later, when things had calmed down, I had to untie the rope holding the chain at the bitter end in the locker and untwist the mess. Just another detail to remember to check now and then!

Towards sundown the wind eased off and it was a pleasant evening. Sitting in the cockpit enjoying a G&T I was amazed to see thousands of big bats (flying foxes?) leaving the island on a nighttime foraging trip. They passed quite close overhead and I could hear their high-pitched sonar squeaks.

I had a peaceful night, but by lunchtime next day the wind was howling again. I let out all of my chain and turned on the GPS anchor drag warning. The strong wind didn’t last for more than an hour before calming to a more relaxing 20-odd knots. The forecast for tomorrow looks much better. Here’s hoping.

The next day the weather stayed frustratingly the same: very little wind at night then increasing to 15 to 20 knots with intermittent ferocious squalls. The anchorage was not very sheltered from the west which was where the strongest winds and waves were coming from. I was not enjoying myself.

29 August

I raised the anchor early in the morning before the wind had started and motored to what appeared to be a better anchorage between two small islands and some reefy bits. It really didn’t seem much better when the wind picked up at about 11 o’clock. A terrifying squall came through and miraculously my anchor held.

This wasn’t going well. I regretted leaving the beautifully safe anchorage at the Abucayan Inlet. Maybe tomorow will be better. In any case I decided that I’d move back to the possibly better protection of the anchorage I’d tried on my previous abortive visit to Honda Bay. Surely it would be more protected as it faced into the West.

30th August

It was heavy work getting 60m of chain up against the wind but at last we were able to motor across the bay and anchored in 10m in Tapul Bay. It seemed pretty good and I was relieved to be in a more sheltered spot. Still very windy with adiabatic squalls coming fairly regularly. I tried setting up my sun awning but had to take it down again fairly quickly as there was just too much wind. The forecast doesn’t look very encouraging and this seems to be the pattern for the rest of the week. I’m starting to think seriously about investing in an electric anchor windlass.

As it was too windy for my big sun awning and rain-catcher I attached the small awning that I use when sailing and i’ts quite pleasant to sit under in the cockpit.

1st September

After a second squally day at Tapul Bay I motored another 4 nm back towards Puerto Princesa to anchor in Mangrove Inlet which was totally protected from the west and surrounded by reefs. The wind still blowing strongly every afternoon but the water is flatter and it’s much more pleasant. The inlet seems oddly deserted with many ramshackle unused fish traps in the shallows and only the occasional small fishing boat. I’m happy to just relax here for a few days with plenty to read and my normal never-ending job list. The internet access is good.

A few days later the wind shifted more to the south and the anchorage was becoming a bit rolly. I moved over to anchor in the lee of Canon Island about 4nm away. It was a very comfortable spot in about 6m. The island is covered in mangroves and seemed to be deserted. A small fishing boat was working the shallows at one end. A partly submerged ruined house on the shore.

But supplies were running low. I could see the small town of Honda Bay only about 1.5nm away on the Palawan coast. The weather was favourable so I motored across one morning and anchored close to the jetty in 2.7m. It was low tide so should be fine. What a treat to be anchored in shallow water for a change.

No sooner was the anchor down, than a Coast Guard launch arrived. All very friendly and happy to take photos. I showed them my papers and they warned me that an army/police exercise was about to take place but it was fine for me to stay where I was. Sure enough, soon two very high-powered inflatables were racing around the bay, each  manned by about 10 serious-looking uniformed individuals. Just an exercise. 

When things had calmed down a bit later, I rowed ashore to do some shopping. There is a really convenient floating dock catering for the tourist bancas which do island-hopping trips. It made a great place to leave the dinghy.

I enjoyed my walk along the single road, with small shops and foodstalls on both sides. At the far end of the road there is a garage with diesel. Plenty of trikes and jeepneys running to Puerto Princesa about 20 minutes away by road. Excellent

The next day the weather was perfect and I moved across to Cowrie Island where there is a resort and a lovely beach. It was a weekday and there were very few visitors. I anchored away from the resort area and got the kayak inflated. It was a wonderful break from the rather nasty weather we had been having. Did some work on cleaning the propeller which was starting to sprout a fine crop of barnacles.

When the weekend rolled around so did the tourists. I was a long way from where they were being dropped off for the day, but the bancas came around to anchor quite near to me to wait for the return trip.  All was fine until a really bad squall came through on Sunday afternoon and much confusion reigned.

By 5 o’clock all had gone home. The sky still looked rather ominous and I decided to move to a more secure anchorage and motored back to Mangrove Inlet which has virtually all round protection and is especially good for winds from the N and NW which is where the strongest squalls seem to be coming from.
When the wind drops it’s absolutely beautiful with clear water for swimming and I’ve had a chance to work on cleaning the hull. 

Posted in Cruising, Palawan, Philippines | 4 Comments »

Still in Puerto Princesa

Wednesday, August 16th, 2023

August 2023

Puerto Princesa has become my base for a few months. The anchorage is very convenient and I find the neighbouring fishing boats fascinating to watch.

Their massive and complicated outriggers and topside structures make them look like giant crabs. Most are beautifully maintained and colourful, the bamboos of the outriggers painted in bright colours – red, orange, turquoise, purple and anything else you can imagine. The big ones have a flotilla of smaller boats used as spotters which are either towed behind or loaded up on deck. It can be quite intimidating when one passes close by, but they are, of course, all expertly handled with numerous crew scampering about on the complex structures. Some will have already cleaned and split the fish they’ve caught and strung them up in the rigging to dry in the sun before taking them to market.

In July I had been given a two-month extension on my visa and was ready to move a bit further north but another typhoon was on the way and it seemed sensible to wait for it to pass. I moved back to the protected little inlet that I’d tried before. After being anchored in the fish port for 3 weeks my prop was badly fouled with barnacles again and we were barely able to maintain 2.5  knots to motor the 5 miles to the inlet. The little wind that there was, was dead against us. But we eventually arrived. It gave me a chance to test my new fish-finder. The old one had become very unreliable and the screen badly sun-damaged and difficult to read. Only visible if I held my head at a particular angle. I had been relieved to be able to replace it at a local shop and now have a brand new Garmin which is a tremendous improvement on the old one. The transducer needed to be attached just below the waterline on the transom – in the same way that I had done for the old instrument. As a temporary measure I managed to attach it to a long, narrow plank and lash that to the pushpit. The plan was to do a more permanent job when I was anchored in clean water.

When I was back at the Abucayan Inlet, which had become my convenient second home, I was able to get in the water and remove the old transducer and was very happy to find that the new one could be bolted to the old, properly installed bracket.  I spent a few hours tidying up the cables and it was looking quite shipshape, although the cockpit is badly in need of a new coat of paint.

The ‘super typhoons’ Egay and Betty (elsewhere known as Doksuri and Mawar) had long-passed safely north of Palawan and I was keen to move up to Honda Bay. I spent a few days restocking in town and set off on a perfect day for a gentle sail north.

It was great to be out at sea again on such a lovely day. My old sail is getting a bit scruffy but still does the job and doesn’t look too bad. The junk rig is very forgiving and the odd worn patch or hole doesn’t affect the performance at all. It was also a good opportunity to get the Navik working again and it seemed happy to oblige. It is only about 20nm to the anchorage I had planned on behind a sandbar near a small island and after an early start we arrived in good time.

I had just settled in and was busy putting up my sun awning when a patrol boat arrived and told me that I couldn’t stay there as it was a protected area. They were friendly enough and agreed to let me spend the night before moving next morning. It was a little disappointing as I had been looking forward to a walk along the sandbar and a chance to watch the birds which I’d been told like to gather there.  It was a really beautiful spot although the anchorage was rather deep.  Later the wind came up quite strongly from the west which put me on a lee shore. Not very comfortable.

Early the next morning the wind was still blowing, which made it quite a hard job to haul up the anchor in 20m of water. I had decided to move across the bay to what looked like a well protected spot only about 2 miles away. Here it was much more comfortable and a more sensible depth for anchoring at 8m.

After the two recent typhoons, it seemed a good idea to keep a careful eye on the weather. I have been using the Windy app on my phone which is usually pretty accurate, but only available online. As a backup I also download a 5-day grib file forecast. Now that we were in a more comfortable place I decided to have a look at the forecast. Oh dear. No internet! I knew that I still had about a week on my prepaid plan. There must be some problem.. At this time of year the wind is pretty consistently SW which could make for a slow trip back to Puerto. I decided to head back early the next day when it was forecast to be more westerly, about 10-15 knots.

After a peaceful night we set off early, as usual, and had a really good sail almost all the way back. Only having to motorsail for the last turn, dead to windward, back into the bay at Puerto Princesa. 

Once more in the hustle and bustle of the town I sorted out the phone problem which was simply a case of having used up all my data prematurely – so now I have a better ‘Plan’ and feel a bit of an idiot. 

I took a ride in a trike to the Abanico Yacht Club, which is where most cruising boats seem to spend their time in Puerto. It is a pretty place with a good restaurant and bar for social gatherings. It might be an option if I needed to leave Speedwell somewhere safe for a while, but I prefer the Fish Port with its easy access to the market and shops. 

I am ready to move on and now just have to wait a week to get my next visa renewal before setting off to have a look at places further north, hopefully armed with a better system for getting the weather forecasts.

Posted in Cruising, Palawan, Philippines | 2 Comments »

Puerto Princesa

Tuesday, May 30th, 2023

May 2023

Malanao Island had been a good place to wait out the strong NE wind that had been blowing for over a week, but my fresh food had all been used up and I was keen to get moving. The forecast was for a few days of light wind followed by some strong SW. It was time to leave. As a first step I decided to carefully make my way through the channel between the island and the mainland and anchor at the northern end for the night. It would save about 2 hours of the trip to Puerto Princesa.

The shallows were easy to see – mostly marked with fishing stakes. It was a rather bumpy anchorage and I was fairly grateful to get away at first light the next day.

As usual, there was very little wind in the early morning, but from 1100 it started up and I had a comfortable downwind sail for the last leg of my trip. If only it could have been like this all the way.

There were some big ships anchored in the approach to the harbour and a lot of outrigger fishing boats (bancas) and tourist boats about. I found a convenient place to anchor in the Fishing Port keeping a safe distance away from the many amazing local boats. Some of them quite enormous, looking almost like small floating villages. All with bamboo outriggers and mostly brightly painted. A crazy, colourful scene.

I had arrived on a Friday afternoon and the quarantine and customs offices would be closed. I hoisted my yellow Q flag and was happy to wait till they re-opened on Monday. I did try to contact them by phone but there was no response.

Finding a place to get ashore was a bit challenging as there are no floating docks or easy places to beach the dinghy. The shoreline has all been protected with a sloping concrete slab construction. Here and there are some steps, but nothing to tie the dinghy to. As I was puzzling how to manage things a helpful shopkeeper gave me a hand and steadied the dinghy so that I could get out and then let me tie the painter to a stick on the side of his kiosk.

I had been unable to contact either the Quarantine or Customs officials so I decided to first go to Immigration and try to sort something out. It was quite a long, hot walk to Robinson’s Mall where they have an office. I took a break at one point in an air-conditioned shop to get multiple photocopies made of all my documents. When I explained my situation to the Immigration people I was told that they could do nothing until I had been cleared by Quarantine, etc. I was given the exact address and took a ride in a tricycle to get there. The office was in a fairly obscure small building back in the port area and the staff of about 8 women were around a table having their lunch when I arrived. All very friendly and helpful but they insisted that someone would have to be taken out to my boat in order to inspect things before they could clear me. They have an official vehicle and as soon as the driver had finished his lunch I was driven down to the harbour with the woman who would have to be taken out to Speedwell. The customs official would also need to visit the boat. I explained that my dinghy was very small and I could only take one passenger at a time. It was decided that Quarantine should go first. Fortunately the weather was calm and I had no trouble rowing us out to where Speedwell was anchored.

I climbed aboard first, thinking I would be able to help the Quarantine lady get herself safely aboard. I had warned her not to step on the side of the dinghy – Oh dear! Suddenly she was suspended mid-air in that classic situation between mother-ship and tiny dinghy. I grabbed her and tried to haul her in but with a splash she landed in the water. Luckily there was no panic. She clung to the side of Speedwell and I tried again to help her up, succeeding only in doing something terrible to my back. I told her to hang on and went to fetch the rope ladder that I use to get aboard after a swim. Not the easiest thing to climb but thankfully she was fit and nimble and managed to clamber aboard. Her backpack with phone, papers, etc. was totally soaked, as was she, of course. I gave her a big dry towel and she stripped off and wrapped herself in it. We proceeded to do the paperwork. A cup of tea was offered, but she was happy just to have a glass of water and was even able to have a bit of a laugh about it all.

When all was completed she had to put her wet clothes back on and we went back to suggest to the Customs man that it might be better to get his paperwork done safely on shore. After some consultation this was agreed to and when all his forms had been filled in he very kindly drove me all the way back to Robinson’s Mall and the Immigration folk. Where at last I was officially cleared in for my first month in the Philippines.

I caught a ride on a jeepney back to the harbour and arrived to find that the tide had gone out and must have been a record low spring as the dinghy was now well and truly aground in thick, soft and sticky black mud. No choice but to slog through it nearly up to my knees and drag the dinghy to where it could float. The mud so sticky that it was sometimes difficult to lift a foot out for the next step. What a day! It also happened to be my 75^th birthday. Once safely back on Speedwell and most of the mud cleaned off, I celebrated with the bubbly that I’d picked up in the mall.

As time went by I perfected a technique for securing the dinghy to get ashore. The bancas have a high pointy prow which they butt up against the concrete slope making it easy for someone to leap ashore and secure the boat. I was usually able to stabilize myself with the aid of their outriggers or lines and there was always a helping hand on shore.

The town is busy with lots of shops and an enormous covered market on several levels selling everything from wonderful fresh fruit and veg to umbrellas, shoes, and just about everything imaginable. A far cry from the air-conditioned, antiseptic supermarket at the mall with its acres of junk food in brightly coloured plastic wrappers. The market is obviously a better place to shop, but I must confess that I enjoy a visit to the mall to cool off in the ac and treat myself to a decent cup of real coffee.

Each time I came ashore I would first get some exercise by strolling along the ‘Bay Walk’ which extends all the way from the Fishing Harbour to the main dock for big ships. The area was the site of an American seaplane base during WWII (see the photo). It comes alive in the evening when most people go out for a stroll and enjoy a drink or a meal at one of the many open restaurants that line the walk.

In town there is another awful reminder of the war. The Plaza Cuartel is the site of a gruesome atrocity where 150 American prisoners of war were burned to death by the Japanese.

The streets are jam-packed with cars, trucks, bikes, trikes and people. Crossing the road requires just steadily tracking across, trusting that the traffic will go around you. Best not to hesitate or show uncertainty. Dogs wander nonchalantly about and cats keep wisely to the cooler shadows. People are invariably friendly and helpful. The heat and humidity are punishing.

Out on the anchorage there is usually enough of a breeze to make things bearable although the water does not look clean enough to hazard a cooling swim. A few days ago a very strong squall came through and it seemed that my anchor might have dragged a few meters. Also, a new banca moved in and decided to anchor just a bit too uncomfortably close.

I decided it was time to explore other anchoring options. A decision made easier by the fact that a typhoon, now named ‘Betty’ was approaching the northern end of the Philippines and strong SW winds were forecast even as far south as Palawan. I thought that the Abucayan Inlet about 5nm away looked like a good option. Raising the anchor was hard work and when it came up I found that it was totally fouled with an enormous bundle of garbage – plastic bags, thick fishing line, electric cables, pieces of an old tarpaulin and more. I had to hack it all off with my trusty old bread-knife. At last we could start motoring out and it soon became obvious that the prop must be badly crusted up with marine growth as the best we could manage was a rather struggling 2 knots. We had definitely been in one place for too long.

It took nearly 3 hours to motor the 5 nm to the new anchorage tucked well into the inlet. A lovely sheltered spot, surrounded by mangroves and palm trees. We were the only boat there and the water was clean and clear. Next day, after having had a good look round (just to be sure that there were no crocs) I was happy to get in the water and clean the prop which badly needed it.

I think we will stay here for a few days and enjoy the peace and quiet before heading back to town where I will need to get my visa extended for the next 30 days.

Posted in Cruising, Palawan, Philippines | 4 Comments »

All Stops to Puerto Princesa

Friday, April 28th, 2023

April, 2023

Once again my visa was running out and rather than another quick trip by air to Manila, I decided to take my chances with the weather and sail to Puerto Princesa, the nearest Philippines port of entry. It was still the transition period between the NE and SW monsoons with variable winds, although predominantly from the wrong direction to give me a comfortable sail from Kudat to Palawan. The distance was just a bit more than 200 nm to the NE. It was going to be a slow trip, but there are many places to anchor along the way with easy day-sailing distances between.

I waited in Kudat for a usable breeze to sail to my first stop at a well-protected inlet on the north coast of Sabah called (I think) Malubang. I was able to work my way quite far in, well past the small village and anchored in 4m on sand. The wind had picked up quite strongly from the NE and it was a good place to be. One or two small local boats passed and waved as they motored further up into the mangroves. Internet access was excellent and I was content to wait there as long as necessary.

To make good use of the time, I hauled out my sewing machine and put together a courtesy flag for the Philippines.

After a few days, the wind dropped sufficiently to make the next hop to Banggi. There was no need for the engine for the first half of the trip, but then I got caught up in some really scary current trying to use a shortcut through a reefy area. I had to back off and go the long way round the marker at the end of the reef. The afternoon wind picked up and it was a hard motor-sail for the rest of the way.

The anchorage at Karakit is not great and I was tempted to head straight on to Mitford Sound where there is good shelter, but it was getting late and I was getting tired. I anchored in 12m in a spot that I’d used before. Not very comfortable, but safe. I made an early start the next day and motored the 5nm to my anchorage at Mitford Harbour. The wind was still quite strong, but at least here the water was flat and it was a good place to be.

A few days later the wind had dropped again and I found out that it would be possible to buy some diesel at the dock ashore. It was a fairly long row to get there and while I was thinking about getting ready to go, and gazing out over the water, I spotted a rather big and lumpy log a little way off the boat. Got the binoculars out and to my horror realized it was an enormous crocodile. Just hanging there with one nasty, patient and speculative eye aimed at my floating home. It was definitely bigger and faster than my tiny dinghy. No long row ashore for me today!

After speaking to a local man the next day, I found out that the croc was a long-time resident in the area. Caution was advised. I really wanted that extra diesel, so I re-anchored as close to the mudbanks as I dared and rowed the short distance as fast as I was able. I soon found the diesel-man and had 20 litres siphoned into my jerry cans. The way the wind had been blowing it looked as though I was going to need it.

Gary had arrived from Kudat and I followed him through an alternative, interesting route through the mangroves to Karakit. The anchorage there was pretty rough and he gave me a lift ashore in his slightly bigger dinghy with outboard. We tied the dinghy to a rickety wooden ladder at the water village and walked along the wooden bridges between the houses to get to the main town. It was all quite amazing and rather wonderful. A low-budget Venice.

I bought some fresh stuff at the wooden ferry-dock market and the next day left early before the wind started. It was a pleasant little sail up the west coast of Banggi to a small bay which doesn’t seem to have a name, but was a great place to stop. Rather to my relief, a really heavy tropical downpour refilled my water tanks on day two.

After a few days there, Balambangan Island was just a short sail across and I met up with Gary again who was helping his friend repair a dinghy. I joined him for a last G&T that evening, the weather was looking good for my attempt at crossing the Balabac Strait. A distance of about 35nm to the next anchorage at Clarendon Bay on the southern tip of Balabac Island.

The trip was uneventful but I was forced to motor-sail in order to get in before dark. When I arrived at the entrance to the bay I had to pick my way carefully through hundreds (thousands?) of plastic bottle floats marking the lines of seaweed farms. I eased my way in as slowly as I could, hoping that one of the men tending the weed might come over to guide me through. No one did and I miraculously managed to make my way to a clear patch at the far end of the bay where one of them gave me the thumbs-up to anchor. I later discovered that seaweed farming is an important source of income for the local people.

I spent the next day relaxing and watching the workers tending the seaweed. They would harvest enormous bales of the stuff and load it onto their tiny canoes to be paddled to the drying racks at their houses. Their small boats barely afloat under the heavy load. I kept a sharp eye out for crocodiles as Balabac is notorious for them. Hot as it was, I had no inclination to go for a swim.

Early next morning I retraced my route through the seaweed maze, grateful for the track that had been recorded on the Garmin GPS. Once out of the bay I was able to sail for a few hours but again had to resort to the engine to get in to the anchorage at Balabac Town before dark. This is the real problem with the day-sailing plan. Sailing close to the coast at night is a bad idea with many unlit fish traps and small boats and many of the anchorages need good light to be able to spot the hazards on the way in. Charts are unreliable, so it’s best to get in before dark. The little old engine is earning it’s keep.

Balabac Town was a delight. An interesting wooden jetty to tie the dinghy to and clamber up a dodgy ladder, then a narrow passage through the stilt houses to the shore. Lots of small shops selling all the essentials and a fair selection of fresh fruit and vegetables. I was able to buy a new prepaid ‘plan’ for the sim card I had bought while in Manila and it was comforting to have internet access and be able to get a weather report again.

A good road winds its way along the coast between the stilt houses and the jungle and I went for a long walk to get some much needed exercise. There were a lot of weird-looking motor tricycles which reminded me of fast-moving extraterrestrial giant insects. I was fascinated by them and soon found out that they are a very convenient and cheap form of public transport.

Unfortunately the weather forecast was not encouraging. Virtually flat calm for the next four days. I draw the line at wantonly pressing on without any hope of sailing, not to mention the fact that I don’t carry enough diesel to even think about it, so it looked as though we would be staying put for a few days.

One morning a smart Coast Guard boat came alongside and wanted to check my papers. I showed them my passport and exit papers from Kudat and they were happy. All very friendly and assured me it was no problem to wait for better weather.

When a gentle breeze at last arrived from a generally SW direction, I set sail at dawn hoping to reach the next anchorage at Iglesias Pt about 35nm away. We were moving quite nicely until the unfortunate moment when the tide turned and we stopped making any forward progress at all. Even with the engine, Iglesias was no longer going to be possible. I had been rather intrigued by the name of the nearest big island along the track: ‘Bugsuk’ did not have a welcoming ring to it. But it was only about 15 miles away and might be an option. I checked my charts and realized that it would be better to try anchoring between Canabungan and Mantangule Islands which were a little closer and offered fair protection. So we turned in there, and with the help of the satellite images that I had downloaded and the wonderfully clear water found our way in to a reasonable anchorage for the night.

Another really early start just before sunrise and we were on our way to Iglesias Pt. At about 1100 the wind filled in from the west and we were able to sail the rest of the day. How wonderful to turn off the noisy engine and enjoy my amazing yellow sail. A big flock of white terns were busily diving on a shoal of small sparkling fish. We arrived at the anchorage at 1600 and had to pass two enormous barges also anchored in the bay. A third one arrived soon after we settled in at a respectful distance from another area of seaweed farms.

A day of rest and then on again. The wind followed the usual pattern which was flat calm in the morning then a light sea breeze in the afternoon. I was able to sail some of the way to Brookes Pt and anchored in 4m within easy rowing distance of the beach. The harbour was fairly busy with big ships coming in alongside the concrete dock and fishing boats scattered about.

It was quite a long walk to the shops and market and we were having some very hot and windless days. I always carry a small folding umbrella in case of tropical showers, now it came in handy as a very effective sunshade. I explored the town and took a stroll down to the lighthouse. This side of the concrete jetty was filled with small outrigger boats as the water is very shallow and they draw virtually nothing. People were friendly and wanted to know where I was from. I was invited to sit and rest for a while under the shade of a stilt house, they were grilling some small fish on a grid over a pit of coals. I left them to enjoy their lunch and wandered on. Near my turn-off to the beach I found a small shop where I could pick up an icy cold ‘San Mig’ to take back to the boat.

I badly needed more diesel and one morning, took my two 10 litre jerry cans ashore and got a ride on a tricycle to a big filling station in town. The driver helped with the cans and waited while they were filled, then took me back to the beach – practically right to the dingy! Wonderfully helpful.

After 5 days of no wind the forecast showed a promising easterly breeze and I set off at dawn heading for the anchorage at Crawford Cove about 30nm further up the coast. A few hours of nice sailing, but as usual the engine had to be resorted to so that we could maintain the necessary 3knot average and get in before dark.

There were quite a lot of fish trap stakes along the sides of the cove and what looked like a small settlement of sea gypsies on the shore. I anchored in the middle of the bay in 4.5 m. Next morning when I left a boatload of friendly waving people passed me, also heading out.

It was less than 20nm to the next anchorage at Rasa Island and we arrived before 3pm, again motoring to start in the early morning calm and then some pleasant sailing later. There was a forest of bamboo posts marking fishing nets along the sand-spit that extends from the mainland towards Rasa Island. Also some unmarked sandbanks in the bay. I carefully found a place to anchor off the beach. I’m starting to get used to being the only cruising boat in any of the anchorages where I’ve stopped. What a change from the Caribbean. Where are the mooring fields and big white charter cats?

Next day Max and Glen, friends of Gary, came to pick me up at the beach and took me shopping in Narra where they are living. There was a very good fresh market and I was able to stock up again. Then lunch at their house and another diesel top up. Wonderfully helpful – Thank you!

The wind was threatening to turn northerly again, so I set off once more at dawn and sailed the next 15nm to anchor in the shelter of Malanao Island. Another peaceful spot surrounded by mangroves with only occasional small-boat passing traffic. This will be my last stop before Puerto Princesa which is now less than 20nm away.

Posted in Cruising, Palawan, Philippines | 3 Comments »

Kudat and a Visa Run

Sunday, December 18th, 2022

December 2022

The ‘Duck Pond’ in Kudat is a very sheltered little harbour with a small marina mainly for power boats. It is possible to anchor outside of the marina and take stern lines ashore to the protecting wall that surrounds the ‘pond’. Not terribly exciting but it is a welcome opportunity to just stop for a while and take care of the mounting list of niggling boat jobs.

The harbour is surrounded by an enormous golf course and from my cockpit I can watch the more affluent citizens buzzing past in their golf carts as they proceed to the next hole. All quite civilized and all rather different from my optimistic expectations of Borneo as a land of jungle and longhouses.

The water around the boat comes alive at night with shoals of fish leaping out of the water to escape some bigger predator beneath. From my cockpit during the day I’ve watched two enormous water monitor lizards stealthily looking for prey. One nearly caught a heron that was taking a break perched on a floating bamboo near to Speedwell. The bird just managed to lift off out of danger as the monitor made a treacherous lunge at him.

The small town of Kudat is a 20 minute walk away and has a very good fresh food market. The old part of town has some jam-packed traditional Chinese-style shops selling an amazing variety of stuff. The other end of town is more modern and has pleasant pedestrian areas with places to sit and relax.

Lots of small restaurants and coffee shops. Although, it took me a little while to understand the local coffee scene. In most parts of the world these days there is a bewildering choice of coffees and all I ever want is a simple black. Maybe a little sugar. I have found that the magic word is ‘Americano’. That usually gets me what I’m after. Not so in Malaysia. But at last I have learnt that here the thing to ask for is Kopi-0. The 0 presumably indicating no extras. Although a little sugar is part of the deal anyway.

The fishing harbour is always busy and crowded with boats supplying the big fish-market with an amazing variety of seafood. Small fish are quite artistically displayed in shining arrangements. Shrimp, squid, shark, rays, parrot fish, eels, tuna and so much more. All rather horrifying to a committed vegetarian (who does also occasionally eat fish).

My 90 day visa for Malaysia was due to expire in mid-December and as extensions are not easily given I decided to take a quick trip to Manila in the Philippines and hope for another 90 days on my return. Speedwell was safe and secure in the Duck Pond and friends on neighbouring boats would keep an eye on things. To add to my peace of mind I had also been able to seal some annoying deck leaks which had started to become a problem in the frequent torrential rain. I would have preferred to sail the fairly short, roughly 200 nm, distance to Puerto Princessa on Palawan but it would have been extremely difficult against the prevailing NE monsoon winds which had started to blow consistently and strongly. Not to mention a daunting SW trending current. And remembering that sailing to windward is not Speedwell’s strongest point.

All went according to plan and I spent an interesting week in Manila after a short flight from Kota Kinabalu. I stayed at the Malate Pensionne which is a very reasonably priced, old-style hotel in a convenient district. The interior was cool and fairly dark with solid wood panelling and floors. A security guard posted at the entrance kept undesirables at bay. The pleasant staff made for a very happy stay there.

Each day I walked through the crazily busy streets to visit the recommended tourist attractions. The impressive old Fort Santiago in Intramuros, the old walled part of the city, conjured up visions of a Spanish colonial past. Rizal Park is a big open area in the city and a nice place to get some street food and find a bench at lunch time. If I was lucky I could finish before the afternoon rain started. I also visited three magnificent museums clustered around the park.

The Museums of Fine Arts, Anthropology and Natural History are all in massive five-storey buildings which were destroyed during the Battle of Manila when American forces bombed them to defeat the Japanese occupying forces at the end of WWII. Photos show how they were totally ruined. Now they have been rebuilt and boast acres of gleaming marble, exquisite parquet floors and an awe-inspiring atrium in the Natural History Museum. Entrance is free but strictly controlled and I had to show ID and proof of full Covid vaccination. No food or even bottled water allowed inside.

A short walk in the opposite direction from the hotel took me through Manila’s Korea Town and down to the shore. An attractive ‘Bay Walk’ is still in the process of construction but I was able to walk along to get a look at the Manila Marina. Then back to a section where all plastic and other garbage has been cleared away and an artificial Dolomite beach has been created to provide a pleasant place to sit and watch the sunset. Access to the beach is as strictly controlled as at the museums. No food, no swimming…just sit and look at the sea, imported sand and the sunset when it comes. For all that, it is rather beautiful.

The traffic in the city is amazingly chaotic with a jumbled mass of cars, trucks, jeepneys, motorcycle- and bicycle rickshaws, tuk-tuks and of course jay-walking pedestrians. I am a self-confessed caffeine junky and I needed something stronger than the hotel provided. Disappointingly all the local coffee places only seemed to open at about 10 so I frequented a handy MacDonalds situated on a busy street corner where I could usually find a seat at the window to watch the passing parade as I re-caffeinated. Just opposite was ‘Robinsons Mall’ which is probably the biggest that I have ever experienced. The very well stocked supermarket had me considering doing some serious grocery shopping and paying for extra luggage in the hold on my return flight. Common-sense prevailed.

The return trip went without a hitch and I am now happily back on Speedwell with another 90 days in Malaysia.

Tags: Kudat, Manila
Posted in Borneo, Cruising, Malaysia, Philippines | 2 Comments »