Nevis
Author: Shirlz
24th March 2014
It was a fast (for me) two-day sail to Nevis from Fort de France. At last the tradewinds performed a bit more reliably, although I was still forced to motor for a while in the lee of Dominica and again Guadaloupe. But a thrilling final night-sail under a full moon for the last 50nm. I passed close enough to Montserrat to smell the ashy sulphurous air from the still grumbling volcano.
Sparky passed the time exploring possible hiding places on the boat.
I anchored off Pinney’s Beach, a little surprised to notice that all the other boats seemed to be attached to big white mooring buoys. I needed to sleep and decided to sort things out later.
When I eventually got to the Customs, Immigration and Port Authorities in Charlestown – conveniently stationed in three adjoining offices – I was not happy to be told that anchoring was not allowed and I would have to use a mooring which, of course, had to be paid for. All in the name of preserving the environment. Luckily there was a cash machine nearby and I fumbled about and found a credit card that was still willing to deliver.
Back on Speedwell, now firmly attached to a big white buoy, I relaxed and looked around me. How could I complain? What a beautiful place. An easy row ashore and a long sandy beach for landing the dinghy. A steady breeze to keep things cool and bug-free, a breathtakingly beautiful, green, cloud-topped mountain, brown pelicans, frigate birds, terns and three different kinds of herons. On my first walk into town a big monkey ran across the field in front of me. I was enchanted.
One day I took a walk along the Heritage Trail to the ruins of Fort Charles. Back in the 17th century it helped to make Nevis one of the best defended islands in the Caribbean. Known in those days as the Queen of the Caribees, the island was a very profitable sugar producer and made many British land and slave owners incredibly rich. Including John Pinney, of Pinney’s Beach fame, who owned the now ruined Montravers Plantation.
It was a hot and dusty road back to town and I detoured to have a relaxing dip in the hot springs a little way off the road. It had been a fashionable spa in the old days but now the bath house is abandoned after hurricane and flood damage made restoration impractical.
A few pools have been made in the stream as well as a small roofed and tiled pool on one side. I stripped down to my bikini and luxuriated in the hot water for a while. A sign promised a cure for aching bones and joints, relief from the blisters of the Manchineel tree and general re-invigoration. Some goats looked on from a polite distance. I had forgotten to bring a towel so had to do my shopping on the way back in a soaking wet dress.
Apart from the rude intrusion of cars, taxis and ATM’s, walking around Charlestown feels like a journey back in time. Many of the old buildings have survived hurricanes with solid stonework for the first level and the upper levels and balconies of wood with gingerbread trim.
Goats wandered through the grounds of the heritage centre sampling the lawn. It’s the dry season and pickings seemed rather meagre.
People stopped to chat and all seemed proud to be Nevisian.
March 29th, 2014 at 18:29
I sent your photo of Sparky in the net to Katie. He looks well named!
A lovely account of Nevis. I’ve never visited, always wanted to and now regret it more than ever. What did the moorings cost per night? (Not so as I can rant, just interested, as ever, in cruising costs.)
I also enjoyed your account of trying to get to St Anne. It happens even in NZ: I kept trying to get to a destination a mere 60 miles away a month or so ago. Every time I was turned back by SE F6. Too much with an onshore swell.
I am so impressed that you are heading for Nova Scotia. I’m sure you’ll love it and they will love you, too. You’ll be pleased to have that new jacket!!