Back in Paranaguá
Author: Shirlz
Tuesday, 23 November 2010
The anchorage off the yacht club ‘sub-sede’ at Ilha da Cotinga was not very pleasant. I had a vicious cold, the big and small biting flies were feasting on my blood and the heat and humidity were oppressive with a thunder storm threatening. I retreated below with all mosquito nets active. Spent the day sweating and reading Jonathan Franzen’s ‘Freedom’ on my iPod.
The storm eventually broke and cleared the air. I took the first opportunity between rain showers on Monday morning to negotiate the channel back to town. Anchored opposite the Danubio Azul again to take advantage of their good wifi signal. After the short break the rain set in again solidly for the rest of the day. At about 10:30 pm it was low water springs and the depth was down to 1.3m. After bouncing around a little the keel settled firmly in the mud. Thank goodness it’s tidal and not subject to the direction of the wind as in the Rio de la Plata where I could be stranded high and dry for days. By midnight we were floating comfortably again.
Thursday, 25 November 2010
Had a look at the Archeological Museum. It is housed in an old Jesuit monastery which has been expertly restored. Massively thick stone walls, cool arched walkways surrounding a big central courtyard. Stone window seats set into the thick walls provide a perfect place for sitting and observing. The actual exhibits were a little thin on the ground. The building itself is the main attraction.
Three rather superior-looking cats eyed me suspiciously as I wandered about a small enclosed garden area. Shades of past Jesuits lurking.
On the way back to the boat I stopped at the Mercado da Café for lunch. Another old building but this one in a more normal state of comfortable, lived-in disrepair. Busy with the almorço crowd. Had a sinful crispy fried ‘pastel do camarão’ and a small ice-cold beer. Lots of crumbs which were enthusiastically taken care of by two little sparrows. The old man at the next table tried to coax them to eat from his hand. People always want to know where I have come from. When I told him of my travels he proudly showed me his T-shirt emblazoned with a print of the Arc d’Triomphe that his daughter had brought back from Paris. Gentle chat about family, etc. I nod and smile, able to assimilate about half of it. I find that in South America family smalltalk takes precedence over the weather as a way of filling the conversational gap.
Another dramatic thunderstorm in the afternoon.
Saturday, 27 November 2010
Eventually discovered a good supermarket that stocks real wine. Bought a few bottles for when I need a treat.
After 12 on Saturday the town shuts down and the waterfront becomes marvellously peaceful. I had thought of moving to Ilha do Mel this weekend but decided to rather wait till Monday when the weekenders will have gone back to work. The long range forecast for my next 200nm leg up the coast is not too promising. Occasional light and variable winds or days and days of NE. I’m not really in a hurry and where I am at the moment has many advantages: perfectly protected waters, good shops nearby, good wifi on board, no biting flies, friendly and supportive locals. I may as well enjoy it and wait for a good forecast.
November 28th, 2010 at 22:21
Lovely stuff, Shirley. What a great approach you have to cruising. Keep on writing and taking these beautiful photos.