Day of the Iguanas
Author: Shirlz
Isla Mujeres, Wednesday, 11 February 2015
Another ‘norther’ blasted the anchorage a few days ago, once again causing multiple draggings. But at last the wind dropped and I decided to take a look at the southern end of the island. I started strolling along thinking that if I saw a bus I might take it, but nada. So I branched off to walk along the eastern shore which has magnificent views of the sea, and just kept walking. First through a built up section crowded with small restaurants, bars and mini supermarkets.
Lined with very colourful houses, it was much more interesting than the tourist ghetto at the north end of the island. I soon found myself on a wonderful cliff top pavement set with occasional benches. It was practically deserted as the rest of the island-visitors trundled past in overburdened golf carts.
Every time I stopped to admire the view, I noticed one or two iguanas peering cautiously at me. They were interesting to watch and I almost envied their lifestyle: sunning themselves on the rocks with such a breath-taking view and foraging for greenery to nibble alongside the path. They look fearsome, but seem to be quite docile.
Later in the day, I watched with amusement as a well shod Japanese tourist inadvertently stepped on the tail of a large specimen. He (the tourist) was absorbed with his camera and wasn’t aware of what he had done. The iguana waited patiently to be released. When I pointed him out the tourist leapt back in shock and the iguana casually pottered off.
Too soon the beautifully maintained pavement suddenly stopped and I had to resort to the ordinary road again. Some hopeful stalls were set up selling a selection of shell souvenirs. I’m always tempted by these pretty things but experience has shown that there simply is nowhere to put them on board. So I bravely resisted and tramped ever onward. The cliff side path resumed but now just as a rough track. Still, it was better than walking along the road and I was able to admire some of the houses built overlooking the sea.
Eventually I reached the southern end of the island which has been turned into a park. This is where all the golf cart riders had been heading and were now cruising the souvenir stalls on foot before settling down to a sustaining lunch. I had to pay 30 pesos to enter the sculpture garden and the path that goes down to the sea.
Right at the tip of the island there is a small pile of rocks which is all that remains of one of the Maya temples that originally existed here, apparently dedicated to the Old Jaguar Goddess, Ixchel, patron of the moon and fertility. The many female statues that were found on the island when it was first discovered by the Spanish in 1517, are what gave the island its name. I pondered the ruins for a short while and turned to gaze at the startlingly clear water. There is a very noticeable tide rip with short standing waves at the point. An area definitely to be avoided when sailing by.
The path follows the coastline very close to the water and it’s possible to see the coral and fish quite easily. An enormous parrot fish swam right up to the edge of the path and I was amazed at his bright green scales. The whole area is a nature reserve and snorkelling is confined to a cordoned off area. I had hoped to get in the water myself and had come prepared with mask and fins but it was not to be. A life vest was mandatory and a crowd of potential snorkelers was queuing up to be issued with the gear before being herded into the water. I decided I preferred the slightly less exciting reef close to where Speedwell is anchored and opted instead to take a rest in the shade and watch the constant stream of intrepid zip-liners as they whizzed overhead above the fish and snorkelers.
An icy beer back at the anchorage rounded off an interesting day.
February 18th, 2015 at 17:52
I am enjoying reading your postings. Speedwell is a very famous little boat as you know. I am a big fan of Vertues and would love to purchase one to replace my current 30 footer. How is the fiber glassing of the hull holding up?
Where are you headed to after Belize?
Kind Regards – Alden Smith Whangarei New Zealand
February 20th, 2015 at 14:12
I did the fiberglass job in 2004 and am happy to report that it is still in perfect condition. I very much doubt if Speedwell would still be sailing if I had left things as they were. I think the fact that I used epoxy rather than polyester resin to do the job was a big advantage.
February 21st, 2015 at 00:07
Yes, 2004 – so that’s 11 years. The hull is doing well then. You are correct I think about using epoxy. I built my own yacht is 2 skins kauri timber with a 6oz cloth covering. Since launching in 1979 I have made holes in the hull for a few skin fittings and every time, the wood has always been bone dry.
I guess you raked out the caulking and splined the carvel planks?
I am sure you are aware of the history of your little yacht. One thing that intrigues me about A G Hamilton who was the original owner is that in his book “The Restless Wind” the story of sailing the Vertue “Salmo” from the UK to Hawaii he never mentions Speedwell or that voyage at all! His book is a really nice chatty read, and for me leaves the feeling that it is a shame he never wrote a book about Speedwell original voyage.
It would be interesting to know what other unknown voyages this adventurous character went on after Speedwell and Salmo and whether they were taken in a Vertue.
Anyway great to read your Blog and hear about Your adventures.