Puerto Ribeira
Author: Shirlz
Puerto Ribeira
Monday, 13 December 2010
Left Ilhabela Sunday morning early as it was obviously going to be a busy day there with a monster cruise ship and many big powerboats. It had been a safe place to stop and get a good nights sleep but some bad weather was coming and I preferred to be stuck in Ribeira. Had to motor sail to get in before dark. Cut it a bit fine coming round the rocky point of Ilha do Mar Virado. The fish finder was dying again and I hoped that it would perk up before I reached the shallow water of the bay. Quite a lot of traffic returning after Sunday sailing and schooners bringing trippers back from the nature reserve on Anchieta. According to the chart I should be in 10m now but the fishfinder is obstinately blank.
When the anchorage came into view I was amazed at how many boats were moored there. I would have to anchor quite far out. Not really a problem as the bay is so well protected. Found what I thought was a good spot a reasonable distance from a pretty little beach and well sheltered from the south which is where the strong wind that had been predicted would arrive from. There were about 30 other boats on moorings between me and the shore. I’d just finished securing the anchor when the taxi boat arrived with Paulo, who has a boat closer in, to offer me the use of a mooring. I wasn’t all that keen really but accepted the offer and moved over. Just as well that I did, as when I raised the anchor I found that the chain had got caught around the anchor and there was no way it would have held in a strong wind. Before picking up the mooring I had stopped at Paulo’s boat so that he could direct me to the right buoy. I was worried about the depth as the fishfinder was definitely non-functional. While I was hanging off his stern Sinbad took the chance to hop across onto his infinitely smarter boat. He timed it just as I was drifting away. I promised to come back with the dinghy to fetch him. Paulo looked a little worried but agreed. As soon as I had made things secure I put the dinghy in the water, wiped some of the sweat off my brow and armpits and rowed across to retrieve the cat armed with two beers. Paulo is planning to go cruising with his family in a few years time. We chatted for a while then I gathered up Sinbad and headed back to Speedwell for a much-needed cool swim.
Tuesday, 14 December 2010
Yesterday I took the cat for a walk on the pretty little beach. Well-heeled holiday houses all along the waterfront but set back behind lush well-tended gardens. Luxuriant tropical trees and flowering shrubs.
Pineapples growing near the sand. Little streams running down to the sea. I let Sinbad enjoy it for a while then took him back to the boat as I wanted to walk to the village to get some fresh fruit and bread. There is a track that runs behind the houses and it was a pleasant shady walk through the trees. The supermarket is a short stroll from the harbour. I remembered it from my previous visit. On the way I noticed a shop selling boat stuff and went in to see if I could find something to replace my defunct fishfinder. They had an entry-level Garmin with a transducer that can be attached to the stern. I decided to buy it as I had felt so anxious not knowing the depth of the water when coming in to the bay.
Coming back, I stopped at a lanchonette for a wonderful freshly squeezed orange juice. The man behind the counter wanted to know if I was the lady sailing ‘sozinha’. Word gets around in a place like this.
There are some swanky yacht clubs catering for the monster powerboats clustered at the head of the bay. I picked up a good wifi signal and the security guard at the entrance let me have the password. Great. I could get my email and check the weather forecast.
Wednesday, 15 December 2010
Very windy yesterday. The taxi boat went around checking that the moored boats were safe. Some needed help. The dinghy had nearly filled with rainwater so I did some washing and then tackled the job of servicing the winches. They were in a disgraceful state and it took most of the day to take them apart and get them properly cleaned up. The halyard winch had been squeaking and squealing alarmingly when I was re-raising the reefed panels on the way here. The sheet winch had been slipping occasionally. With the old flat sail it had hardly been necessary to use it but now that I have a sail that actually pulls to windward it has become essential. This is probably the most quantifiable evidence of our improved performance. I hope it’s not simply that I’m getting old and weak.
Thursday, 16 December 2010
It rained on and off all of yesterday. All the water tanks are full and the boat is loaded with wet washing. I wanted to wash my hair but didn’t feel like spending the foreseeable future with a wet head.
Managed to service the anchor windlass which was also badly in need of it. While I was on deck re-installing it some rain got into my left ear and killed that hearing aid. So now I’ll be back to not understanding what’s being said. Maybe I can get it fixed or replaced in Ubatuba. Just when this happened (I was also rather preoccupied with trying to re-insert the pawls with their little springs into the windlass without anything springing into the water) someone in a kayak approached for a chat. It was not the most auspicious moment and I’m afraid I was less than gracious.
I rowed over to the fuel barge this morning to fill my jerry cans. It seems that I’m going to have to use the engine more than I would like to as the wind is very erratic. Very light and from all directions or so fierce that I don’t want to venture out. I also end-to-ended the yard hauling parrel as it had nearly chafed through.
All ready to leave tomorrow.
December 29th, 2010 at 02:03
Dear Shirley “not so Sozinha” and Sinbad,
Glad to know you enjoyed your 2nd stay at Ubatuba and liked the mooring as well. Also that you could solve your depth measurement dilemma faster than I expected…
I wish you all the best in 2011 and in the next years to come!:-)
Abraços and fair winds to all of us!!!
Paulo (ANAUE)