Santo André to Ilhéus
Author: Shirlz
Tuesday, 19th April 2011
A massive high pressure system spread along the entire east coast of Brazil seemed to promise settled weather. I decided to leave just after slack water when the water level would be rising again. While I was waiting I was able to raise the sail and tweak it a bit as the wind had dropped for a while. It seemed alright and the 100 nm trip to Ilhéus would be a good test run.
I had walked along the beach at extreme low water yesterday and had a vivid impression of the narrowness of the navigable channel. When we turned with the tide I got the anchor up and set off cautiously, keeping a wary eye on the echo sounder. It was scary but we made it. Once in open water I hauled up the sail but there wasn’t enough wind to overcome the swell, so carried on motoring for a while. At last the wind picked up and soon we were rushing along at 5 – 6 knots. The sail seemed to be setting better but has a tendency to creep up the mast. I need to tighten the string holding down the boom at the mast.
Also noticed that I had completely forgotten about the lowest luff parrel between the first and second battens. Maybe that’s the problem. Will fix it when we stop.
There was a nearly full moon but the night was not quite perfect as I was constantly having to adjust the sail for short sharp rainy squalls with the wind coming from all directions. Not very relaxing.
I was pleased when the sun reappeared and made it easier to see the rain squalls approaching.
It was fairly pleasant sailing but with the variable conditions I didn’t have much chance to relax and the lack of sleep was beginning to tell. I worked out that I needed to maintain an average speed of 4 knots to reach Ilhéus before dark the next day and against all purist principles, fired up the engine when needed, to make it happen. These medium-length coastal hops are the most trying for me. Thanks to the diesel we arrived at the entrance to Ilhéus just as the sun was setting. Dark comes suddenly in these latitudes and I barely managed to get settled in before it was pitch black. One other unoccupied yacht in the anchorage and a scattering of small powerboats.
I tidied things up on deck then cleared a space on my bunk and put my head down for a moment. Next thing I knew, 2 hours had passed. 36 hours without sleep seems to be my limit, even with an occasional hefty caffeine shot.
Thursday, 21 April 2011
A heavy rainshower first thing this morning has obligingly filled all my available water containers. After breakfast I was about to put the dinghy in the water to row ashore when the club launch came by and offered me a lift. Why not? Sinbad was happy as his favourite place on deck is sheltering under the dinghy when it’s there.
As luck would have it, today was a public holiday with the whole town closed down. And as it was a Thursday (Quintafeira), it had been generally agreed that Friday should be taken as a holiday as well to make it a meaningful long weekend. So not much happening till Monday. I pottered on regardless and was captivated by the old part of town.
Colourfully restored buildings and interesting
narrow lanes going up the surrounding hills.
Shady praças with inviting tables and chairs set under the trees.
Imposing blue-domed cathedral. A few inquiries eventually led me to an operational supermarket and I was able to get some more provisions for my planned stay in Camamu.
Ilhéus is completely open to the north and not a comfortable place for an extended stay. The yacht club’s fee for anchoring and using their showers is R$50 per day for the first three days and escalating thereafter which wasn’t encouraging either. So tomorrow it’s off to Camamu.
Tags: cruising