St Martin
Author: Shirlz
Wednesday, 2 April 2014
I left Ballast Bay early on Monday morning hoping to reach St Barts before dark. The wind was a gentle SE and we drifted pleasantly down the coast to the narrows. We were moving slowly so I used the engine to get through this tricky part rather han spend the best part of the day clawing my way through. The luxury Christophe Harbour resort buildings gazed down at us as we passed through their panoramic view.
Soon we were able to sail again. What a treat to have a force 4 southerly wind and a calm sea. I sat back and enjoyed it with a coffee hoping that Sparky wouldn`t get too excited and fall off. He seemed happy under the dinghy on deck but every now and then he would jump up on top of it and could easily get swept off if the sail came across. He still has so much to learn.
The lovely day stretched ahead. It didn`t look as though we would get to St Barts before dark so I decided to head straight for St Martin and stand off there till morning. When we were about 8 miles away it was 9pm and a very dark moonless night. I thought I may as well heave to and get some sleep. After about an hour I checked our track on the Android and although we were only moving at about half a knot that half was taking us inexorably, determinedly, directly towards some sneaky little rocky bits in the middle of the channel. Damn! I would have to move further along. A big cruise ship lit up like a small city was also holding its position a few miles off the island. I didn’t want to get too close to that either. So we crept along under a reefed sail following the coast about 5 miles off. No sleeping now. At about 3am we turned in towards Simpsons Bay going in the right direction now but very slowly so as to arrive with the dawn. As it started to lighten, the cruise ship also moved in, heading for the dock at Groot Baai. It was going to be a close encounter so I altered course and waited patiently for it to pass.
The anchorage at Simpson Bay near the entrance to the lagoon was crowded and surrounded by high rise hotel buildings. At about 9am the swing bridge opened and a procession of megayachts emerged. Mini cruise liners all shiny and bright with uniformed crew doing things on deck.
I had a quick nap then got the dinghy in the water and rowed under the bridge to clear in with Immigration. Only to be told that as a South African passport holder I would need a visa. Oh dear. On the way back to the boat I made a quick detour to Budget Marine and was able to buy a wonderful new VHF radio to replace the old one that had died a few months ago. It has a built in GPS which will mean much less complicated wiring to get the AIS working again. I also found a really super new head torch to replace my old one which had been swept off my head during an unplanned gybe. Passing a computer shop I popped in and got a cheap printer which I needed to print out Nova Scotia sketch charts. The day wasn’t wasted. These were the main reasons I`d stopped in Sint Maarten as its a duty free port and shopper`s heaven. I was tempted to pick up some groceries but was already loaded down with bulky parcels so I headed straight back.
Rain clouds were looming overhead and I just made it back and unloaded the dinghy before the start of a torrential downpour that lasted a few hours. The dinghy filled with wonderful clean rainwater to do my washing in and all the water tanks and my motley collection of bottles and jugs filled to overflowing. If only diesel could be so effortlessly delivered.
Thursday, 3 April 2014
I had a pleasant little sail round to the French side of the island and anchored in Marigot Bay. It looked like a long row ashore so I stayed on board as it was already getting late and put it off till tomorrow.
Friday, 4 April 2014
A windy, squally day. I installed the new radio and after a bit of confusion got it to send a GPS signal to the AIS. Marvellous. I was able to tidy up the chaotic mess of wires behind the chart table and found that the light connection was corroded which was why it wasn`t working. Ditto for the fish finder. Replaced both connections and everything is working again and looking really neat. I gazed admiringly at my handiwork and resolved to look for an extension speaker for the cockpit so that I can use the radio out there.
In between doing all this amazing stuff we had had some more good rain and I filled the bucket and whatever empty containers I could find. Does it get any better?
Monday, 7 April 2014
I stayed on board all weekend while the wind howled and the sea bounced us around and high powered RIB’s roared past. No more fresh stuff to eat so I hope the wind drops soon. It`s an awfully long row to get ashore. Most of Sunday afternoon was spent replacing the stern light which had been smashed by the dinghy bouncing up underneath it. Given plenty of time to think about where to head next, I decided to sail directly from here to Bermuda en route to Nova Scotia and not make a detour to the Virgin Islands as originally planned. Late April will be a good time to leave.
After breakfast this morning the wind had calmed down enough to get ashore and I got myself cleared in at last. The centre of town caters for the tourist trade with lots of boutiques and jewellery shops. Supermarkets are further out but very good. I decided to stock up with a few happy-boxes of affordable wine and take a break from brewing my own.
There were hundreds of boats anchored and moored in the bay and still more in the two marinas. A preponderance of giant catamarans and comfy charter boats. I suspect that Speedwell might be the smallest there, certainly, I seemed to be the only person trying to get about in a small rowing dinghy.
Sunday, 13th April 2014
On Friday I re-anchored closer to the dinghy dock where a space had become available. A much easier row to get ashore. Previously I had been using the channel to get into the lagoon and it was a bit hair raising as powerboats and flotillas of hired RIB`s with people going for a fast fun ride use it all the time with very little understanding of the effect that their tremendous wake has on my light little dinghy.
I took a stroll up to Fort Louis above the town and had a magnificent view over the lagoon and the bay. Speedwell a tiny yellow dot amongst the big white boats.