Up and down the Amador Causeway
Author: Shirlz
It was nearly dark before I was able to leave the Balboa yacht club area where the advisor and line handlers were picked up. I wasted no time in motoring down to the anchorage at Playita.
My guidebook recommended it as the better anchorage during the dry season as it is protected from northerly winds. This is true. Unfortunately there is no protection from the frequent high speed ferry traffic which shuttles back and forth between Playita and the small island of Taboga about 5 miles away.
The Amador Causeway was created using rock from the canal excavations. It links 4 small islands on the Pacific side of the canal and provides a breakwater for the canal entrance. The Metrobus runs fairly frequently from Flamenco island at the far end to the big shopping mall and bus terminal at Albrook.
After suffering the ferry boat traffic for a few days I moved round to the other side of the causeway where there is another free anchorage. Here it was much more comfortable but the free dinghy dock was very crowded. There is a 5 meter tidal range which makes an easy floating dock quite a challenge. The dock belongs to the navy and there was always a strong contingent of camouflage-uniformed officials. Wearing a life jacket in the dinghy is obligatory and enforced. Luckily someone had given me one of these things some years ago so I could comply with the regulations. (Thank you Neal).
Now I had to do some serious shopping to reduce the risk of starvation on the long voyage to the Gambier Islands. I’m not planning to stop at the Galapagos and need to cater for up to 60 days at sea. Could be more of course.
Water is also quite important. I split the shopping into manageable loads for the dinghy as it was quite a long row to where I was anchored and there were fairly frequent rain squalls which made rowing quite exciting. On one particularly nasty occasion I had to resort to a tow.
My main water tanks hold about 100 liters and I have a vast collection of bottles ranging in size from 1.5 to 10 liters giving me all together a total of 200 liters. At 3 liters per day this should give me a bit more than 60 days.
My collection of 1.5 liter bottles was given to me by Hutch in Carriacou who keeps his empty Cranberry juice bottles, rinses and squashes them flat for easy storage. If you have strong lungs they can be reinflated and are great for water as they can be tucked in to any available small nooks and crannies.
I loaded up some cans of beer to take up the slack and felt I’d done my best. Just grateful that I was only catering for one.
It’s a pleasant walk along the causeway with wonderful views on either side. I loved watching the never-ending stream of massive container ships, either having just passed through the canal or about to start their transit. I wonder how those precipitously stacked containers would have fared had they been forced to go around Cape Horn.
On the opposite side was a panoramic view of the skyscrapers of Panama City and all the boats, Speedwell among them, anchored in the sheltered waters.
At last I had done all the provisioning that there was room for on board and the last of my ongoing property nightmares back in South Africa were almost resolved. I cleared out of Panama on Friday, 5th May and after a very last quick shopping spree on Saturday, set off early on Sunday morning heading for the Perlas Islands about 35nm away.
On the way out of the anchorage I passed the Sea Shepherd boat looking quite ferocious and wondered what current campaign it was fighting.
For most of the morning we enjoyed a light Northerly F3. Pretty much downwind and we were moving nicely. It was lovely to be sailing again. But then the wind slowly and irrevocably faded and soon we were down to a depressing 0.5 knots at best. No way of making it in before dark so as it was going to be a dark moonless night and I wasn’t sure if there would be lights at the island of Contadora where we were heading and I didn’t feel like making a no-sleep overnighter, (all these excuses) I fired up the engine and arrived at Contadora just before dark.
Also heading home to roost were many hundreds of seabirds. Mainly pelicans and cormorants with the occasional brown booby.
May 13th, 2018 at 12:55
Well, I expect this may be your last post before casting off for the crossing. Thanks again for keeping us updated on your adventures, and on the details of planning such a journey. Wishing you fair winds and gentle seas.
-bob
May 15th, 2018 at 07:07
I’m enjoying your journey. I transited the canal in early March. I’ve returned home but the boat has gone on to Nicaragua by now. I love the Sea Shepherd boat!
July 22nd, 2018 at 15:51
Hi , I lay down in bed this evening thinking something is missing , and realised it was my periodic checkin with your blog…
I sincerely hope this finds you well and still excited.
I do live vicariously thru you and hope I continue to enjoy your adventures…
just sent you a Whatsap update – smile time…
Looking forward to your next update – huge hugs ?
Kris n Bolt
.
Ps. Whatabout new crew to purr you to sleep… ?
July 22nd, 2018 at 15:51
Hi , I lay down in bed this evening thinking something is missing , and realised it was my periodic checkin with your blog…
I sincerely hope this finds you well and still excited.
I do live vicariously thru you and hope I continue to enjoy your adventures…
just sent you a Whatsap update – smile time…
Looking forward to your next update – huge hugs ?
Kris n Bolt
.
Ps. Whatabout new crew to purr you to sleep… ?
July 25th, 2018 at 14:51
Where are you Shirlz? Dying to hear all about the voyage and how about I send you a ticket to fly here for R&R or U could meet you on one of the Islands?