Back in the water
Author: Shirlz
Soon after the dinghy incident I had Speedwell hauled out at Panamarina, a very efficiently run small boatyard close to Puerto Lindo. The village of Cacique is a short walk away but doesn’t have much to offer apart from a small bodega and a tiny kiosk selling the barest of essentials. It does have a pleasant waterfront with a natural swimming pool protected by the reef and provides a nice break from dusty boatyard work.
With Speedwell safely up on the hard, December was spent re-connecting with my son and his family in England, being reminded of the strange luxuries that most people these days seem to consider the norm. I relaxed and let it happen, enjoying the novelty of big-screen TV, hot showers and automatic ice cubes in my drinks. I was enjoying myself, but too soon, had to fly down to Cape Town to sort out a mounting heap of crises relating to property and banks. Once again a drastic change of climate. It’s warm in Cape Town in January. And not too many showers due to the catastrophic water shortage. Problems were duly sorted out and then another week in England before making my way back to the boatyard and Speedwell.
My poor little ship was in a sorry state after nine weeks on the hard during a hot and steamy tropical rain-season. Fortunately my friend, Henry, had checked on her after the first month, when it had rained very heavily and he had bailed out the accumulated water from the bilge. Somehow it always seems to find a way in. The first few days back were spent cleaning the mildew from all surfaces and again bailing out. At last the boat was liveable again. The rest of the month of February was spent doing the many, many jobs which had to be done.
Panamarina is situated rather remotely on the unspoilt Costa Arriba, about 25km NE of Colon and the entrance to the Panama Canal. It is surrounded by the protected rain forest of a national park and only accessible by land via a winding unpaved road. So any necessary shopping trips are a major expedition entailing a 2 mile walk followed by a 2 hour bus ride. Each way. I have learnt to make a careful shopping list before heading out. In fact I rather enjoy the walk as it is an interesting road and there is usually something eye-catching to be seen.
Early in the morning the howler monkeys set up a tremendous roaring and occasionally I have been lucky enough to spot them, high in the branches of big trees. Colourful birds and butterflies. Once I saw a small boa constrictor which had unfortunately been killed, possibly by a car as it tried to cross the road. It still looked very beautiful. In the marina itself I have seen toucans from my land-locked cockpit and sloths, of the non-human variety, quite often make an appearance. One afternoon I watched as one made a slow and painstakingly purposeful crossing of the slipway. For once I had time to stroll back to the boat and fetch my camera and was able to get a shot of him climbing slowly into the mangroves. He seemed sublimely unperturbed by the growing crowd of onlookers and two interested dogs.
At last, on Wednesday this week, Speedwell was afloat again. I decided to pick up a mooring and relax for a few days before deciding on my next move. What a delight it is to be gently rocked to sleep at night with a cool breeze coming down the fore-hatch. Clean water to swim in whenever I fancy.
The plan now is to organize a transit of the canal and then explore the Pacific coast of Panama before setting off to French Polynesia and beyond.
March 17th, 2018 at 22:47
How absolutely fantastic that you have decided to come into the Pacific! I can’t wait to see you, although I’m sorry to say I’ll still be a long way from floating myself. I just hope that you will want to linger in this part of the world until we can go off sailing in company!
I hope the transit goes well and quite envy you the joy of sailing your own boat in French Polynesia. Looking forward to your next post!
March 24th, 2018 at 21:48
good to hear about your travels I was getting worried about the lack of news
April 4th, 2018 at 02:01
Hi Shirley,
First of all, what a great blog and website and inspirational story. I love it, but still have an albin vega to get ready before I can share such dreams. I noticed in the photos that you had an Albin vega on the boat. how did you find it? I have just fitted one but am confused as to how to set up the safety breakaway lever (and the spring underneath)…if you have any photos of your navik from underneath, please do feel free to share them as I am just playing a guessing game right now that doesnt seem to be going too well 🙂 .Thanks in advance if you can show me how yours is set up
Best wishes
Andrew!
April 13th, 2018 at 06:19
Hi Andrew, I’m planning a blog post with some pics of the Navik.