Speedwell of Hong Kong

All Stops to Puerto Princesa

Author: Shirlz

April, 2023

Once again my visa was running out and rather than another quick trip by air to Manila, I decided to take my chances with the weather and sail to Puerto Princesa, the nearest Philippines port of entry. It was still the transition period between the NE and SW monsoons with variable winds, although predominantly from the wrong direction to give me a comfortable sail from Kudat to Palawan. The distance was just a bit more than 200 nm to the NE. It was going to be a slow trip, but there are many places to anchor along the way with easy day-sailing distances between.

I waited in Kudat for a usable breeze to sail to my first stop at a well-protected inlet on the north coast of Sabah called (I think) Malubang. I was able to work my way quite far in, well past the small village and anchored in 4m on sand. The wind had picked up quite strongly from the NE and it was a good place to be. One or two small local boats passed and waved as they motored further up into the mangroves. Internet access was excellent and I was content to wait there as long as necessary.

To make good use of the time, I hauled out my sewing machine and put together a courtesy flag for the Philippines.

After a few days, the wind dropped sufficiently to make the next hop to Banggi. There was no need for the engine for the first half of the trip, but then I got caught up in some really scary current trying to use a shortcut through a reefy area. I had to back off and go the long way round the marker at the end of the reef. The afternoon wind picked up and it was a hard motor-sail for the rest of the way.

The anchorage at Karakit is not great and I was tempted to head straight on to Mitford Sound where there is good shelter, but it was getting late and I was getting tired. I anchored in 12m in a spot that I’d used before. Not very comfortable, but safe. I made an early start the next day and motored the 5nm to my anchorage at Mitford Harbour. The wind was still quite strong, but at least here the water was flat and it was a good place to be.

A few days later the wind had dropped again and I found out that it would be possible to buy some diesel at the dock ashore. It was a fairly long row to get there and while I was thinking about getting ready to go, and gazing out over the water, I spotted a rather big and lumpy log a little way off the boat. Got the binoculars out and to my horror realized it was an enormous crocodile. Just hanging there with one nasty, patient and speculative eye aimed at my floating home. It was definitely bigger and faster than my tiny dinghy. No long row ashore for me today!

After speaking to a local man the next day, I found out that the croc was a long-time resident in the area. Caution was advised. I really wanted that extra diesel, so I re-anchored as close to the mudbanks as I dared and rowed the short distance as fast as I was able. I soon found the diesel-man and had 20 litres siphoned into my jerry cans. The way the wind had been blowing it looked as though I was going to need it.

Gary had arrived from Kudat and I followed him through an alternative, interesting route through the mangroves to Karakit. The anchorage there was pretty rough and he gave me a lift ashore in his slightly bigger dinghy with outboard. We tied the dinghy to a rickety wooden ladder at the water village and walked along the wooden bridges between the houses to get to the main town. It was all quite amazing and rather wonderful. A low-budget Venice.

I bought some fresh stuff at the wooden ferry-dock market and the next day left early before the wind started. It was a pleasant little sail up the west coast of Banggi to a small bay which doesn’t seem to have a name, but was a great place to stop. Rather to my relief, a really heavy tropical downpour refilled my water tanks on day two.

After a few days there, Balambangan Island was just a short sail across and I met up with Gary again who was helping his friend repair a dinghy. I joined him for a last G&T that evening, the weather was looking good for my attempt at crossing the Balabac Strait. A distance of about 35nm to the next anchorage at Clarendon Bay on the southern tip of Balabac Island.

The trip was uneventful but I was forced to motor-sail in order to get in before dark. When I arrived at the entrance to the bay I had to pick my way carefully through hundreds (thousands?) of plastic bottle floats marking the lines of seaweed farms. I eased my way in as slowly as I could, hoping that one of the men tending the weed might come over to guide me through. No one did and I miraculously managed to make my way to a clear patch at the far end of the bay where one of them gave me the thumbs-up to anchor. I later discovered that seaweed farming is an important source of income for the local people.

I spent the next day relaxing and watching the workers tending the seaweed. They would harvest enormous bales of the stuff and load it onto their tiny canoes to be paddled to the drying racks at their houses. Their small boats barely afloat under the heavy load. I kept a sharp eye out for crocodiles as Balabac is notorious for them. Hot as it was, I had no inclination to go for a swim.

Early next morning I retraced my route through the seaweed maze, grateful for the track that had been recorded on the Garmin GPS. Once out of the bay I was able to sail for a few hours but again had to resort to the engine to get in to the anchorage at Balabac Town before dark. This is the real problem with the day-sailing plan. Sailing close to the coast at night is a bad idea with many unlit fish traps and small boats and many of the anchorages need good light to be able to spot the hazards on the way in. Charts are unreliable, so it’s best to get in before dark. The little old engine is earning it’s keep.

Balabac Town was a delight. An interesting wooden jetty to tie the dinghy to and clamber up a dodgy ladder, then a narrow passage through the stilt houses to the shore. Lots of small shops selling all the essentials and a fair selection of fresh fruit and vegetables. I was able to buy a new prepaid ‘plan’ for the sim card I had bought while in Manila and it was comforting to have internet access and be able to get a weather report again.

A good road winds its way along the coast between the stilt houses and the jungle and I went for a long walk to get some much needed exercise. There were a lot of weird-looking motor tricycles which reminded me of fast-moving extraterrestrial giant insects. I was fascinated by them and soon found out that they are a very convenient and cheap form of public transport.

Unfortunately the weather forecast was not encouraging. Virtually flat calm for the next four days. I draw the line at wantonly pressing on without any hope of sailing, not to mention the fact that I don’t carry enough diesel to even think about it, so it looked as though we would be staying put for a few days.

One morning a smart Coast Guard boat came alongside and wanted to check my papers. I showed them my passport and exit papers from Kudat and they were happy. All very friendly and assured me it was no problem to wait for better weather.

When a gentle breeze at last arrived from a generally SW direction, I set sail at dawn hoping to reach the next anchorage at Iglesias Pt about 35nm away. We were moving quite nicely until the unfortunate moment when the tide turned and we stopped making any forward progress at all. Even with the engine, Iglesias was no longer going to be possible. I had been rather intrigued by the name of the nearest big island along the track: ‘Bugsuk’ did not have a welcoming ring to it. But it was only about 15 miles away and might be an option. I checked my charts and realized that it would be better to try anchoring between Canabungan and Mantangule Islands which were a little closer and offered fair protection. So we turned in there, and with the help of the satellite images that I had downloaded and the wonderfully clear water found our way in to a reasonable anchorage for the night.

Another really early start just before sunrise and we were on our way to Iglesias Pt. At about 1100 the wind filled in from the west and we were able to sail the rest of the day. How wonderful to turn off the noisy engine and enjoy my amazing yellow sail. A big flock of white terns were busily diving on a shoal of small sparkling fish. We arrived at the anchorage at 1600 and had to pass two enormous barges also anchored in the bay. A third one arrived soon after we settled in at a respectful distance from another area of seaweed farms.

A day of rest and then on again. The wind followed the usual pattern which was flat calm in the morning then a light sea breeze in the afternoon. I was able to sail some of the way to Brookes Pt and anchored in 4m within easy rowing distance of the beach. The harbour was fairly busy with big ships coming in alongside the concrete dock and fishing boats scattered about.

It was quite a long walk to the shops and market and we were having some very hot and windless days. I always carry a small folding umbrella in case of tropical showers, now it came in handy as a very effective sunshade. I explored the town and took a stroll down to the lighthouse. This side of the concrete jetty was filled with small outrigger boats as the water is very shallow and they draw virtually nothing. People were friendly and wanted to know where I was from. I was invited to sit and rest for a while under the shade of a stilt house, they were grilling some small fish on a grid over a pit of coals. I left them to enjoy their lunch and wandered on. Near my turn-off to the beach I found a small shop where I could pick up an icy cold ‘San Mig’ to take back to the boat.

I badly needed more diesel and one morning, took my two 10 litre jerry cans ashore and got a ride on a tricycle to a big filling station in town. The driver helped with the cans and waited while they were filled, then took me back to the beach – practically right to the dingy! Wonderfully helpful.

After 5 days of no wind the forecast showed a promising easterly breeze and I set off at dawn heading for the anchorage at Crawford Cove about 30nm further up the coast. A few hours of nice sailing, but as usual the engine had to be resorted to so that we could maintain the necessary 3knot average and get in before dark.

There were quite a lot of fish trap stakes along the sides of the cove and what looked like a small settlement of sea gypsies on the shore. I anchored in the middle of the bay in 4.5 m. Next morning when I left a boatload of friendly waving people passed me, also heading out.

It was less than 20nm to the next anchorage at Rasa Island and we arrived before 3pm, again motoring to start in the early morning calm and then some pleasant sailing later. There was a forest of bamboo posts marking fishing nets along the sand-spit that extends from the mainland towards Rasa Island. Also some unmarked sandbanks in the bay. I carefully found a place to anchor off the beach. I’m starting to get used to being the only cruising boat in any of the anchorages where I’ve stopped. What a change from the Caribbean. Where are the mooring fields and big white charter cats?

Next day Max and Glen, friends of Gary, came to pick me up at the beach and took me shopping in Narra where they are living. There was a very good fresh market and I was able to stock up again. Then lunch at their house and another diesel top up. Wonderfully helpful – Thank you!

The wind was threatening to turn northerly again, so I set off once more at dawn and sailed the next 15nm to anchor in the shelter of Malanao Island. Another peaceful spot surrounded by mangroves with only occasional small-boat passing traffic. This will be my last stop before Puerto Princesa which is now less than 20nm away.

April 28th, 2023  |  Posted in Cruising, Palawan, Philippines  |  3 Comments »

Back to Kudat

Author: Shirlz

March 2023

After spending a few days at Karakit on Banggi, the wind looked reasonable for a sail across to the neighbouring island of Balambangan.

At the north eastern end there is a big bay and it is possible to anchor on one side or the other depending on how the wind is blowing. On the SW side of the bay there are some barely discernable ruins of what was once an East India Company base. I was able to anchor fairly close in and the water was crystal clear. An easy row ashore and a magnificent beach of fine white sand. I enjoyed a long walk to the outermost point of the bay at low tide.

Then it was back to Banggi, where I got caught up in more bad weather. After a day of bouncing around at the end of my anchor chain in very strong winds, with more forecast,  I decided to move about 5 miles further up the coast into a more protected spot at Mitford Harbour. It was directly to windward, of course, so I left Karakit at first light  prepared to motor all the way while the wind was still manageable.  I had to rely heavily on the satellite images that I had downloaded as, according to the rather sketchy  Navionics charts, we were sailing overland for a large part of the way. Most of the route was fairly protected between the outlying islands and we had no problems negotiating the reefy patches. I found a good spot to anchor behind Pulau Laksiang and let out plenty of chain in anticipation of the fierce winds that were expected.

For the next two days the NE wind did not let up. With no wind instruments I can only judge it’s strength by the appearance of the water and surroundings. It must have been blowing a pretty steady 30 knots most of the time. I made use of the enforced stop by having another attempt at fixing the leaky oil sump on my engine. I had bought a good supply of steel epoxy while in Kudat, and after cleaning things up as best I could, I put another big patch over the problem area. I’m pleased to say, it looks as though I’ve fixed it at last.

I had stupidly left my sun awning up in the vain hope of catching some rainwater. The wind ripped some of the seams apart, which gave me another job to fill the time.

But at last, after two days, it calmed down and I was able to row ashore to the small settlement of Mitford Harbour. Just a few houses on stilts over the water and a concrete jetty under construction. 

It was low water and I had to drag the dinghy ashore through the mud, which thankfully only reached to my ankles. But there was nowhere to rinse my feet and I had to carry on strolling up the road in my rather bedraggled state. Some boys watched me with interest and friendly smiles. A road followed the coast through the jungle and I walked, squelching along, hoping to find a shop to replenish my dwindling supplies. To my delight there actually was one. It had a few wooden steps up to the entrance, and as per the usual custom, the people inside had removed their shoes and left them on the verandah. I did the same, but my feet were so  muddy, it might have been better to leave them on. Nothing was said, but I noticed some amused glances. I was very glad to find some fresh eggs and chose a good selection of junk food. Unfortunately no fresh fruit and veg. There was the usual discussion of where I had come from, how old I was, and was I really all alone? Of course, being such a small place, everyone had noticed the small yellow boat anchored nearby. Happy with my purchases I made my way back to Speedwell before the wind made it difficult again.

The next day I sailed back to Kudat and anchored off the Esplanade which proved to be very convenient and well protected. Gary had recommended it and was also anchored nearby. I was treated to a G&T on his boat at sundown.

It was a pleasure to wander around the market and shops in Kudat again and visit my favourite coffee shop and restaurant. I filled my diesel tanks and the small Chinese seafood restaurant where I could leave my dinghy allowed me to fill some jerry cans with water. This was a big help as there hasn’t been much rain lately.

Fully refuelled and restocked I set off again a few days later to explore an interesting-looking anchorage at the NE end of Sabah. A deep inlet which looked as though it should give protection from all winds. It was wonderfully peaceful and I was the only boat there. There were a few houses ashore and what looked as if it might be a small dive resort. I anchored over sand in 4m in blissful solitude.   

Tags: Balambangan, Banggi, MItford Harbour
March 19th, 2023  |  Posted in Borneo, Cruising  |  2 Comments »

On to Banggi

Author: Shirlz

February, 2023

The Duck Pond was becoming rather crowded with an influx of yachts arriving from the Philippines, many of them French. An interesting collection of boats; at one point there were three other bright yellow ones in the harbour. We were surrounded by a cat’s cradle of lines holding the boats stern-to the wall and anchors crossing over each other ahead, I had started to feel rather trapped. It was time to move on.

Tuesday, 7 Feb
I waited for a calm day and Tony on a neighbouring boat helped me untie my shore lines. I hauled on the Fortress anchor which had been set well ahead and Speedwell’s long keel slid easily over the other boats’ crossing bow lines with the engine in neutral. The Fortress had been set out one stormy day when the Delta had dragged, again with invaluable help from Tony.  Now, it came up without any problem apart from lots of mud. We had definitely  been in one place for too long, the stern lines were encrusted with growth and green slime and I left them piled up in the cockpit while I motored the short distance around to Kudat harbour. We moved smoothly through the calm water – the bottom and the prop had been very well cleaned by Craig – and we were soon anchored a reasonable distance from the fishing fleet and within rowing distance of the Police Dock where I was hoping to be able to get ashore.

Thursday, 9 Feb
I spent two days cleaning the shells and green slime off the lines. Not an easy job, which left the surroundings on deck in a real mess. At last all was shipshape again and I thought about getting ashore. But then the wind came up. Unless I’m really desperate I don’t choose to row my bouncy little dinghy in a busy harbour when the wind is strong and the water choppy. I decided to explore further up the bay and closer to the mangroves where there is a water-village on stilts.

Friday, 10 Feb
Further in, the water was calmer and I anchored in 5m in beautiful surroundings. Very happy to be in more open water again. I decided to just stay where I was for a few days. There are always enough little jobs to be done on the boat to keep me occupied and internet reception was good. I was anchored roughly opposite the stilt village but quite a way off so I was fairly suprised to hear a knock on the hull and someone shouting ‘hullo!’ It was a local guy who had swum out (about half a mile) with the aid of a blown up plastic sack for buoyancy and a pair of homemade flippers. He was very interested in my rig and didn’t seem worried about the possibility of crocodiles. Is this something they just tell the tourists?

I was planning to sail across to Pulau Banggi, an island about 23 nm away to the NE, but the wind was blowing steadily F4 to 5 from precisely that direction and there was some adverse current. I was hoping for a slight improvement as I did not want to arrive in the dark. I also needed to get ashore for supplies before setting off.

Monday 13 Feb
I moved back closer to the dock and found a good place to leave the dinghy while I went shopping. It was good to walk around the town with it’s lively market again and I stopped for a Kopi-0 at my favourite coffee shop. Everyone so friendly.

Back on board, I got the dinghy back on deck ready to leave early the next morning.

Tuesday 14 Feb
The wind had dropped a little and backed more towards the NW and it seemed about the best we could hope for at this time of the year.  I set off quite early in the morning and was able to sail out of the harbour with the full sail up. Just wonderful to be moving again. We were able to maintain about 3 knots until nearly 2pm when the wind started to strengthen and veer more northerly. If I was going to get in before dark we needed help from the engine. So, reluctantly, we motor-sailed the rest of the way. As we approached Banggi I had to slow down a bit to allow a big ship to cross our path. The Navionics charts of the island are a bit vague and the satellite images that I had were also very indistinct but it seemed that it would be fine to enter through the channel NE of Pulau Patanunam. The sun was still high enough to see where the reef extended and the water was very clear. Plenty of room and no problems.  I found a good place to anchor in about 12m in front of the water village and easy rowing distance to the ferry dock.

Wednesday, 15 Feb
A beautiful, calm day so I launched the dinghy and found a place to leave her on the shore next to the fish market.  rubble-strewn, but safe. The main attraction in the little town of Karakit is the big ferry dock that extends over the water with an interesting market and some restaurants. A ferry had just arrived and the place was busy with people arriving from Kudat carrying lots of baggage. Some of the planks are a bit rickety and it’s a good idea to watch where you put your feet. Closer to the fish market there are also a few small general stores and I was able to find an edible-looking block of cheddar cheese.

Thursday, 16 Feb
I was busy making some toast for breakfast when a small open boat with a woman and four children came alongside to sell me a big polished conch shell for whatever I had to offer. I had been told about the sea gypsies who live on their boats in this area. The woman was very friendly and the kids were all smiling. What can one do? I bought the shell and gave them some biscuits, soap and shampoo which they seemed happy with.

They had not been gone long, when the wind started to pick up and within about half an hour a very intense squall blasted the bay. I don’t have an anemometer but it must have been at least F10. Fortunately it lasted less than an hour and much to my relief the anchor held. I had 50m of chain out in 12m of water and would have liked to let out more but it was too strong for me to do anything during the blow. As soon as the wind dropped a bit I put out more chain in case there was more to come. That old ‘stable door’…

I was quite happy that the squall also brought plenty of rain which helped to top up my water tanks.

Tags: Banggi, Kudat
February 17th, 2023  |  Posted in Cruising  |  3 Comments »

Kudat and a Visa Run

Author: Shirlz

December 2022

The ‘Duck Pond’ in Kudat is a very sheltered little harbour with a small marina mainly for power boats. It is possible to anchor outside of the marina and take stern lines ashore to the protecting wall that surrounds the ‘pond’. Not terribly exciting but it is a welcome opportunity to just stop for a while and take care of the mounting list of niggling boat jobs.

The harbour is surrounded by an enormous golf course and from my cockpit I can watch the more affluent citizens buzzing past in their golf carts as they proceed to the next hole. All quite civilized and all rather different from my optimistic expectations of Borneo as a land of jungle and longhouses.

The water around the boat comes alive at night with shoals of fish leaping out of the water to escape some bigger predator beneath. From my cockpit during the day I’ve watched two enormous water monitor lizards stealthily looking for prey. One nearly caught a heron that was taking a break perched on a floating bamboo near to Speedwell. The bird just managed to lift off out of danger as the monitor made a treacherous lunge at him.

The small town of Kudat is a 20 minute walk away and has a very good fresh food market. The old part of town has some jam-packed traditional Chinese-style shops selling an amazing variety of stuff. The other end of town is more modern and has pleasant pedestrian areas with places to sit and relax.

Lots of small restaurants and coffee shops. Although, it took me a little while to understand the local coffee scene. In most parts of the world these days there is a bewildering choice of coffees and all I ever want is a simple black. Maybe a little sugar. I have found that the magic word is ‘Americano’. That usually gets me what I’m after. Not so in Malaysia. But at last I have learnt that here the thing to ask for is Kopi-0. The 0 presumably indicating no extras. Although a little sugar is part of the deal anyway.

The fishing harbour is always busy and crowded with boats supplying the big fish-market with an amazing variety of seafood. Small fish are quite artistically displayed in shining arrangements. Shrimp, squid, shark, rays, parrot fish, eels, tuna and so much more. All rather horrifying to a committed vegetarian (who does also occasionally eat fish).

My 90 day visa for Malaysia was due to expire in mid-December and as extensions are not easily given I decided to take a quick trip to Manila in the Philippines and hope for another 90 days on my return. Speedwell was safe and secure in the Duck Pond and friends on neighbouring boats would keep an eye on things. To add to my peace of mind I had also been able to seal some annoying deck leaks which had started to become a problem in the frequent torrential rain. I would have preferred to sail the fairly short, roughly 200 nm, distance to Puerto Princessa on Palawan but it would have been extremely difficult against the prevailing NE monsoon winds which had started to blow consistently and strongly. Not to mention a daunting SW trending current. And remembering that sailing to windward is not Speedwell’s strongest point.

All went according to plan and I spent an interesting week in Manila after a short flight from Kota Kinabalu. I stayed at the Malate Pensionne which is a very reasonably priced, old-style hotel in a convenient district. The interior was cool and fairly dark with solid wood panelling and floors. A security guard posted at the entrance kept undesirables at bay. The pleasant staff made for a very happy stay there.

Each day I walked through the crazily busy streets to visit the recommended tourist attractions. The impressive old Fort Santiago in Intramuros, the old walled part of the city, conjured up visions of a Spanish colonial past. Rizal Park is a big open area in the city and a nice place to get some street food and find a bench at lunch time. If I was lucky I could finish before the afternoon rain started. I also visited three magnificent museums clustered around the park.

The Museums of Fine Arts, Anthropology and Natural History are all in massive five-storey buildings which were destroyed during the Battle of Manila when American forces bombed them to defeat the Japanese occupying forces at the end of WWII. Photos show how they were totally ruined. Now they have been rebuilt and boast acres of gleaming marble, exquisite parquet floors and an awe-inspiring atrium in the Natural History Museum. Entrance is free but strictly controlled and I had to show ID and proof of full Covid vaccination. No food or even bottled water allowed inside.

A short walk in the opposite direction from the hotel took me through Manila’s Korea Town and down to the shore. An attractive ‘Bay Walk’ is still in the process of construction but I was able to walk along to get a look at the Manila Marina. Then back to a section where all plastic and other garbage has been cleared away and an artificial Dolomite beach has been created to provide a pleasant place to sit and watch the sunset. Access to the beach is as strictly controlled as at the museums. No food, no swimming…just sit and look at the sea, imported sand and the sunset when it comes. For all that, it is rather beautiful.

The traffic in the city is amazingly chaotic with a jumbled mass of cars, trucks, jeepneys, motorcycle- and bicycle rickshaws, tuk-tuks and of course jay-walking pedestrians. I am a self-confessed caffeine junky and I needed something stronger than the hotel provided. Disappointingly all the local coffee places only seemed to open at about 10 so I frequented a handy MacDonalds situated on a busy street corner where I could usually find a seat at the window to watch the passing parade as I re-caffeinated. Just opposite was ‘Robinsons Mall’ which is probably the biggest that I have ever experienced. The very well stocked supermarket had me considering doing some serious grocery shopping and paying for extra luggage in the hold on my return flight. Common-sense prevailed.

The return trip went without a hitch and I am now happily back on Speedwell with another 90 days in Malaysia.

Tags: Kudat, Manila
December 18th, 2022  |  Posted in Borneo, Cruising, Malaysia, Philippines  |  2 Comments »

Leaving Sarawak

Author: Shirlz

November 2022

I was back in my old spot in the Santubong River, wondering whether to have another try at sailing to the Rajang Delta or to move further north to Labuan and beyond.

On Saturday morning I looked out and was surprised to see another cruising yacht anchored nearby. The first I had seen since arriving. A bit later, Gary, the skipper, came over and gave me a lift ashore – the current was running very strongly and I had hauled my dinghy back on deck. Later, over a G&T in his cockpit he recommended heading directly to Labuan and on to Kota Kinabalu and Kudat. It seemed like a good idea, especially as the SW monsoon is almost over and this might be my last opportunity for an easy sail up the west coast of Borneo.

He set off to Labuan a few days later, but I decided to wait for the strong winds that had been blowing for a while to calm down a bit before heading out.

On Friday the 14th October (not the 13th) I raised the anchor and set off, heading NE. There was a very big swell almost breaking across the bar which made for an exciting exit. It was almost 400 nm to the harbour at Labuan and the weather was very changeable – sudden rain squalls followed by flat calm conditions and thankfully a fair bit of very pleasant sailing. I was able to keep moving most of the time, even if we were often not doing more than 2 knots. I had been able to refill my diesel tanks before leaving Santubong but only carry a total of 80 litres so I had to try to do as little motoring as possible

There are many oil rigs along the coast and a careful watch had to be maintained. I chose to stay far enough offshore to be outside of the most rig-infested areas and didn’t really have a problem. They are quite accurately shown on the Navionics charts and very well lit. Of course there is also a lot of shipping traffic, but I didn’t encounter too many fishing boats.

Labuan is a duty free island a little way offshore of Brunei. I had originally hoped to make a stop in Brunei but my South African passport made it necessary for a complicated visa application so I gave it a miss.

The recommended anchorage in Labuan harbour is opposite the ferry dock and the harbour master’s office, locally called the Jabatan Laut.  It is also close to a big village on stilts over the water and the Coastguard dock. It’s fairly busy with boats of all types and sizes, including barges, passing by and it was sometimes quite interesting rowing across to the other side of the harbour where I was able to tie my dinghy to a big tuna boat and scramble ashore.  The tuna boat belongs to John and Amy, friends of Gary, and they were magnificently helpful, giving me a tour of the island and always welcoming me aboard after my brave dinghy crossing of the harbour.

The island is not very big and we drove all the way around in half a day, stopping at various places of interest. A walk along a beautiful white sand beach then a quick snack of fresh green coconut and chicken sate.

Another stop at the  Peace Park and Surrender Point where Japan surrendered to the Australians after WWII. Then a sobering stop at the war cemetery with thousands of headstones marking the graves of those who died during the Japanese invasion of Borneo, on the Sandakan death march and as prisoners of war.

At another stop, on a lighter note, I gazed in wonder at ‘The Chimney’, a tall structure built over a no longer active coal mine which is now a small museum. No one is sure if it was actually a chimney or what it really might have once been used for. Interesting. We had a last stop at a big modern building housing an ambitious aquarium. Unfortunately they have not had much success at keeping the sea-life alive. Artists were working at an outdoor studio making lifelike models of fish in lieu of real ones.

There are many good hardware stores and small shops selling almost anything you can think of within easy walking distance of the harbour. There is also a very good fresh market. When I left about a week later Speedwell was fully stocked again and the diesel tank was full. I also gave myself a little treat and indulged in a bluetooth keyboard that works with my phone, tablet and laptop. The normal 90% humidity here means damp, sweaty fingers and makes using a touch screen to type more than the shortest of messages, a real test of my patience.

Next stop was Kota Kinabalu or KK for short, about 80 nm further up the coast of Sabah. There is a dredged and well-marked channel through the reefs leading to the protected harbour.  I was lucky to make it in just ahead of a threatening black rain squall and found a place to anchor among the fishing boats.

Gary had arrived some days earlier and showed me around the town. Another really good place to buy most things. Grant and Sufi with their 3-year old son Alco drove me out to the industrial area where I was able to buy some replacement fuel and oil filters for my engine. Then we went on for a wonderful drive through the jungle and high into the hills for coffee and later a noodle lunch in a small restaurant with a magnificent view over the bay.

It was tempting to stay longer but the seasons were changing and soon the winds would be against me for the next leg up the coast and around the northernmost tip of Borneo to Kudat. 

I left KK on 1st November and had a really good downwind sail all the way with a favourable current making for a really fast passage. As I rounded the northern point the current died, but the wind was still good and we raced along. I looked behind me and a really black and looming cloud was chasing us. No escape from this one. I hastily dropped half the sail (thank-you junk rig) and we carried on in the sudden strong wind. But then torrential rain caused zero vizability and I was getting soaked. Not fun. I turned up into the wind and hove-to to let it pass. 45 minutes later we were on our way again and with the help of the GPS and the Navionics chart managed to locate the entrance to the ‘Duck Pond’ where there is a small boatyard and marina and a free place to anchor. 

Tags: Kota Kinabalul, Kudat, Labuan
November 5th, 2022  |  Posted in Borneo, Cruising, Malaysia  |  3 Comments »

Trying for the Rajang Delta

Author: Shirlz

October, 2022

If I have been anchored in one spot for more than a week or two I normally get in the water to check that the prop is clean and not a useless lump of barnacles before moving on, but due to all the croc warnings it seemed sensible to rather make a stop at Satang Besar, a small island only 10nm away, where it was supposed to be safe to swim. There was no wind and I would have to use the engine to leave. Over the past few months it had intermittently been making a strange growling noise when I tried to put it in gear. I dreaded the demise of my gearbox but it always seemed to sort itself out after a few careful tries. Now I started the engine, leaving it in neutral while I went forward to raise the anchor. Back in the cockpit I carefully engaged the gear lever and we started to move. All fine. But NO! Suddenly the growling noise erupted with a vengeance. I tried disengaging the gears and going into reverse, neutral, forward, tactics which had worked before. Suddenly the gear lever lost all connection with the transmission and flopped lifelessly from side to side. I hastily killed the engine and re-anchored. It looked as if we would be staying a bit longer.

No resident mechanics here. I would have to have a shot at sorting it out myself. I checked the control cables and all seemed fine. As in any small boat, connections to the engine are difficult to reach and 34° heat with 90% humidity was not making it any easier. It was cooler in the cockpit and I decided to take off the gear lever and start from that end. It came away quite easily with the removal of a central screw and the problem was immediately apparent. The lever connects to the controls via friction to a cone. Over the 20 years since the engine was installed I have never once attempted to clean this arrangement, having no idea that it was necessary. Now the entire cavity behind the lever and around the cone was filled with grit and dusty gunge. This was obviously interfering with the action. I cleaned it out carefully with a wire-brush and an old toothbrush and screwed it back together. Problem solved! No more growly grumbling.

We still had time to get to Satang Besar before dark so we set off once again. This time I would be anchoring on the opposite side of the island to when I had used it as a night stop on my way in. It is the more recommended spot and is opposite a lovely sand spit and beach where the turtles come to lay their eggs. The Nature Conservation people have a house there and take care of the eggs. I anchored in 8m in mud, an easy row to the beach.

Next morning I rowed ashore, interested in finding out more about the turtles. The conservation houses were shut and there seemed to be no one around. I walked along the beach and met up with a group of men under the shade of a big tree. It seemed there was nothing happening turtle-wise. Oh well. It would have been fun to see the baby turtles making their way to the sea. I was lucky to have watched the egg-laying process and later baby turtles scrambling sea-wards when I was at Ascension Island in the Atlantic all those years ago.

I carried on walking along the beach and sand spit. There were some alarmingly big (monitor?) lizard tracks in the sand. Back on Speedwell I had a refreshing swim and took the opportunity of checking the prop. It was still clean except for some easily removed slime.

I stayed another night and left early the next morning to head for the next anchorage at Pulau Lakei about 20 nautical miles further on. It turned out to be quite a spectacular spot with rugged cliffs along the coast. I dropped anchor on the southern side of the island in about 5 meters on a muddy bottom. I was able to row around to a small beach where there is a nature conservation building. All closed up.

Well-maintained wooden steps led to a burial site near the top and another interesting path through the jungle. I spotted a beautiful butterfly and a very unusual flower. The path ended at a lookout with a view over the South China Sea.

The next day I carefully negotiated the narrow rock-strewn channel between the island and the mainland to try out the other anchorage on the Eastern side. This had to be done at low tide so that the rocks were visible. It turned out to be rather an uncomfortable spot as the tidal currents seem to swirl around the small island and meet up in this area creating a roiling cauldron of confused water. I didn’t fancy launching my light little dinghy in that lot.

I was quite relieved to get away the next morning and start the trip across to the entrance to the Rajang River. All went well for a few hours until the tide turned. Soon the boat speed dropped to about 1.5 knots and the best angle we could manage was perpendicular to our course. I battled on for 2 days struggling against the varying strong tidal currents and an unrelenting headwind. I considered anchoring in the shallow water and waiting out the adverse tides but then the wind really picked up and the seas were getting on the rough side. The sleep deficit was starting to wear me down as well. Much against my normal principles, I decided to turn around and head back to the shelter of Santubong. After 48 hours I had only made 25 miles progress towards my destination.

With the wind behind us we were soon approaching the entrance to Santubong. But now it was nearly nightfall and it had started to pour with rain. I hove-to for the night about 10 miles off. In the morning we set off again, still in very heavy rain with limited visibility. Suddenly out of the gloom I saw a tug approaching from Santubong, towing an enormous barge. It passed fairly close by to starboard. No relaxing here!

What a relief to be safely back at the familiar anchorage. A chance to regroup and possibly re-plan the next move.

Tags: Pulau Lakei, Santubong, Satang Besar
October 10th, 2022  |  Posted in Borneo, Cruising, Malaysia  |  1 Comment »

Serasan to Santubong and Kuching

Author: Shirlz

September, 2022

After leaving the channel through the reef at Serasan I turned East, sailing along the coast, to clear Pulau Perhantuan, a small outlying island nearby. There was a small fleet of local fishing boats working the area. These were the last boats that I was to see for the rest of the voyage to Santubong. An amazing contrast to the crowded seas that I had experienced on the way here. I had a lovely, relaxing sail. The moon was full, the winds gentle and the sea calm. It had been my plan to make a stop at the Tanjung Datu anchorage but a sudden on-shore squall changed my mind. It was another 35 miles to a better anchorage at Pulau Satang Besar, a small turtle reserve, close to the entrance to the Santubong river and I decided to head there instead.

Despite motoring for the last 5 miles it was dark when we got there. The Navionics chart of the area is pretty accurate and I was also checking the satellite picture on Offline Maps. As I got closer I could see a red and white strobe light flashing to mark the anchorage which was a big help. I dropped the anchor in a sheltered spot in 8m. A little roly, but safe.

The next morning I could see that it would have been better to have moved closer in. I’ll do that next time.

I waited for a favourable rising tide and then sailed the last leg of my passage to Sungai Santubong. The entrance to the river was comfortably deep, never less than 4m and the shallow mudbanks each side were easy to avoid. The tidal stream carried us rapidly along. The river water is muddy and it’s impossible to see the bottom. After a 90° turn to port I was soon able to spot the big concrete Marine Department Dock and a smaller floating dinghy dock nearby. I anchored within convenient rowing distance in 10m. We were the only cruising boat there. I was in Malaysia.

The anchorage is overlooked by the impressive peak of Mount Santubong. Believed to be the legendary remains of a warrior princess. It is surrounded by a nature reserve and there are some interesting hiking trails and waterfalls.

I took Sunday off and early Monday morning I braved the fierce tidal current and rowed ashore to see how I could get into Kuching, about 35km by road. The dinghy dock belongs to a sort of ‘marina’ with beautiful, well-tended gardens and a couple of interesting wooden chalets on stilts over the water. Even a fenced swimming pool surrounded by mosquito netting and locked. Pity. There was no one around, just a friendly pack of small dogs who came to investigate the intruder.

I walked through the grounds up to the road that runs to Kuching. A covered bus stop looked promising, but there was no information about when the next bus might be expected. I still had to get a new sim card for my phone, so no way of getting info. I tried sticking my thumb out and a Grab bike stopped for me and asked if I needed help. He offered to give me a ride to the nearest shopping centre where I could get cash from an ATM and a sim card. It was about half an hour away and I hung on bravely. The driver was worried as he didn’t have a helmet for me. Who says ocean sailing is dangerous?

Once I’d organised some cash and dealt with the phone the bike driver arranged for a MyCar taxi (similar to Uber) to take me the rest of the way to Kuching and the Port Authorities at the town marina. The officials were all very friendly and efficient and special thanks goes to Bohari who personally drove me around to the harder to reach Customs office and also sorted out a problem with the sim card purchase before driving me to the touristy part of town. Many thanks!

Clearing in to Malaysia was very straightforward and I have been given a 90-day visa with no charges and the boat is allowed to stay indefinitely. Very much simpler than Indonesia.

Once I had the precious documents and a stamp in my passport I wandered along the waterfront just enjoying the unusual surroundings. A very colourful market street with lots of small shops and some well-preserved historical buildings. I was really more interested in doing some re-provisioning before getting back to Speedwell, so decided to return another time for the sight-seeing and set off to find a supermarket. The afternoon thunderstorm was threatening and I had no umbrella. I managed to do my shopping during the cloudburst and a helpful shopkeeper called for a taxi to get me back to the anchorage. Why is everyone so friendly and kind? When I got back to the dinghy dock the wind had picked up and the tide was against me. It would have been a real struggle to row out to Speedwell, and it was starting to get dark. A local fisherman with a motor-boat gave me a ride and towed Bokkom. What can I say?

The river has been flowing rapidly with the tides as the moon has just passed full. The tidal range is about 3 meters and at low water extensive mudflats are exposed. Timing is critical when rowing ashore to avoid getting stuck in the mud. The water has zero visibility and there are warnings everywhere about man-eating crocodiles. Swimming is not an option. There is no shortage of rain water so I can keep my pressurized garden sprayer filled and have a luxurious cooling spritz whenever needed.

There is a small village a short walk away with a reasonably well stocked mini-market. A little further along, Google Maps shows the ‘Alfred Russell Wallace Centre’. Of course, I had to investigate as he is one of my long-time heroes. The building is brand new and well maintained but empty and locked up. Maybe it’s planned as a future museum.

I was feeling the need for some exercise and on Saturday I walked to the ‘Sarawak Traditional Village’ about 6kms down the road. Friday the 16^th September was a holiday celebrating Malaysia’s Independence Day and there were a lot of people with the same idea as me, although I was the only walker. The whole peninsula is a nature conservation area and I saw some monkeys crossing the road as I walked along. The ‘village’ itself was quite interesting with different styles of houses: a traditional long house, a tall house, a Malay house, a Chinese farm house, etc. All set in beautiful surroundings around a lotus lake. The highlight of the day was a surprisingly good show of traditional dancing. I felt it was a day well spent and after marching the 6kms back and achieving a grand total of 23,000 steps on my step-counter I got the required workout!

My plan is to spend some time exploring the Rajang River Delta. It’s possible to sail a long way inland and there are some interesting places to visit. Before leaving Santubong I needed to clear out with the Port Authorities in Kuching so I decided to combine this with some sight-seeing in the city.

These days there are no buses that go from Santubong to the city. I tried hitch-hiking but after nearly an hour in the brutal heat, admitted defeat and called for a Grab taxi. It’s a 45 minute drive and I wasn’t keen to cling to the back of a bike all that way. An air-conditioned car it would have to be. The driver was very helpful and got me to all the necessary bureaucratic places before dropping me off at the touristy waterfront.

I spent the rest of the day enjoying the city. Kuching means cat and there are cat statues all over. It seems the name is due to some early European pointing towards the town and asking what it was called and the person who answered thought he was pointing at a nearby cat.

There is a lovely pedestrian walk along the Sarawak River which runs through the city. Sampans constantly cross the river, ferrying people to the opposite side. The more energetic have the option of using a very futuristic footbridge. Naturally I had to try the bridge and it gave some magnificent views. There is an interesting mixture of traditional old shops and well preserved colonial buildings.

As I wandered further from the riverfront I was soon surrounded by the usual modern city shopping malls and traffic. I returned to the tree-shaded waterfront and treated myself to a nice lunch at the James Brooke Restaurant, named after the man who was granted governorship of the territory in 1842 by the Sultan of Brunei. The Brooke family became known as the White Rajahs and ruled Sarawak until 1946.

It’s rather a pity that the anchorage at Santubong is so far from the city with no cheap transport. The Kuching Marina is also not very conveniently placed and is in a state of partial ruin after flooding, not to mention a resident crocodile.

I made my way back to Santubong, did a bit more provisioning at the local mini-market and got things ready to leave for the Rajang Delta.

October 2nd, 2022  |  Posted in Cruising, Indonesia, Malaysia  |  2 Comments »

Pulau Serasan, Last Stop in Indonesia

Author: Shirlz

September 2022

It was very pleasant hanging out at Belitung. The water was crystal clear, the fine white sand beach, colourful boats and imposing granite rocks, all made it a very beautiful place to be. The only problem for me, on a small monohull, was the fact that every afternoon or sometimes mornings too, a relentless, lazy swell rolled in to the bay. At low tide the reef close to where I was anchored kept my patch of sea flat, but when the water rose the swell was unstoppable. Getting ashore was sometimes a problem in my little dinghy but Rob and Muzzi were wonderfully helpful and were always there when really needed with their powerful inflatable.

After a bit of dithering I decided to use Joni Oan as an agent to help me with the clearing out process. He took care of all the details and there were only a few trivial hitches, but it would have been quite tricky for me to negotiate it on my own. Both Immigration and Customs had to come out to the boat to take pictures and the Quarantine people had to inspect my first aid kit. It was deemed deficient and I was given a list of essential medicines that I had to acquire before leaving. Joni picked everything up for me in town and handed me a bagful of pills and potions. I was interested to see what was there – Antibiotics? Morphine? Inflatable Splints? No such luck, but a hodge-podge of flu remedies, antacids, headache tablets, etc. Not even any sea sick remedy. A little disappointing. Oh well, I won’t have a problem if I get indigestion or a headache.

Armed with some impressive-looking official documents and a precious stamp in my passport I was ready to go. There had been some very heavy rain showers and the water tanks were full so after breakfast on Tuesday morning we set off heading towards Kuching, Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo, a distance of about 400 nm, hoping to be able to make one or two short stops along the way.

My first idea had been to anchor for a few days at a small uninhabited island called Serutu which was only about 80 nm away to the NE and would have been a good place to stop for a full night’s sleep. Unfortunately the wind was more East than South East and I found myself battling to make progress hard on the wind. It was slow and uncomfortable and then it started to pour with rain. I held out for nearly a day but was still less than half way there. I decided to alter course for an easier sail further north and forget about that full night’s sleep.

Now it became a different thing altogether. Speedwell goes wonderfully well with the wind astern, and the sea was beautifully calm. The breeze had dropped considerably and we spent two days and nights just gliding along over the South China Sea doing 1.5 to 2 knots. It was much more comfortable than being anchored in roly Belitung. We were out of the main shipping lane to Singapore and there was much less big ship traffic, although at one point two enormous container ships were approaching from opposite directions. The AIS showed that they would pass either side of me, each less than a mile away. I held a steady course and there were no problems. It made me think of two elephants trying to avoid a mouse in their path.

At 02:00 on Friday we crossed the Equator.

The Navik wind vane has been coping magnificently lately and really comes into its own in strong winds and rough seas, however, it is getting a little old and arthritic and doesn’t manage too well when boat-speed through the water is under 2.5 knots. But then the wonderful electric Simrad autopilot takes over (thanks again Annie) and due to the fact that we now have excess battery power (thanks to the new solar panels) we can carry on steering a course almost until all motion ceases, at which point it really hardly matters which way you are pointing. It was a wonderfully gentle couple of days and best of all, we made nearly 50 nm miles progress each day with no need to start the engine.

Midnight on Saturday/Sunday after 5 days at sea, we only had about 30 nm to go. I had been taking a nap when something woke me and I went out to have a look around. The wind had changed and we were sailing too fast and in the wrong direction. No moon. Very dark. I had the full sail up after all the light winds we had been having. It took a few moments to wake up properly and after reefing right down to just 2 panels I decided to turn up into wind to prevent the now torrential rain from coming straight down the companionway and hove-to to let it pass. I blessed the wonderful junk rig which makes a manoeuvre like this so easy, even in the pitch dark, even for an ancient crone. Then I went below to make a mug of coffee and wait for things to calm down.

An hour later we were on our way again and soon there was enough light to see our surroundings. A nasty little unlit islet had to be avoided and I was glad to be able to have it in sight.

The entrance through the reef to Serasan Harbour is open to the south and reef patches have to be carefully negotiated. I was planning to use the OfflineMaps app to help. As I started to change course to approach the entrance a very strong rain squall hit with 20 to 30 knot southerly winds whipping up a nasty sea. I made a quick decision to rather sail around to the leeward side of the island where there are two possible, easily approached, places to anchor.

It was a downwind run keeping a safe distance away from the surrounding reefs and small islands. Once in the lee of the archipelago I was able to find a reasonably comfortable place to anchor in 8m. There was a bit of a swell but I had become used to that after my time at Belitung. I enjoyed a peaceful night’s sleep and early next morning set off to try the harbour entrance again, now that the weather had calmed. There was enough wind to keep us moving at 2-3 knots, but of course now I had to make a few tacks to get safely past the extensive reefs.

The entrance channel to the anchorage had some markers showing the gap in the reef and it was easy going although I would not have enjoyed doing it with 20-30 knots of wind behind me. I found a good spot to drop the anchor near to the stilt-village that lines the coast. There were a few fishing boats about and each time one approached they would make a bit of a detour to get a good look at this strange little craft that had entered.

By now it was nearly lunch-time and I went below to make something to eat. Just then I heard some loud whistling and went up to investigate. Two small canoes made from blue plastic barrels, each with two boys trying to attract my attention. Big smiles and ‘hellos’, waving a good-sized squid to give me. All the usual questions – where was I from? Was I alone? How old was I?! My very few words of Bahasa Indonesia helped. After they had left I made a gruesome mess of cleaning and slicing the inky fish into strips. I couldn’t manage restaurant-style rings. It was delicious sautéed with garlic and lime on a bed of basmati rice. What a treat! Lunch problem solved.

After that it was time for a short nap. But it was not to be. More whistling and this time a big, solid wooden fishing boat was edging up to Speedwell and wanted to come alongside. There were about 10 mostly uniformed men on board all peering down at us. I took their line and they settled fairly calmly against some tyre fenders, towering over my little ship. When I objected to the entire contingent boarding Speedwell, they agreed to let me rather clamber across to their boat, bringing my papers with me. I had been told that this would not be necessary, but each island seems to have its own rules. A barrage of questions again, all trying to talk at once, much laughter and good spirits. This was obviously an unusual event. Google translate worked hard at helping us understand one another. I explained that I was just stopping for a short rest and hoped to be able to get some diesel and fresh fruit and vegetables. Eventually it was agreed by all that this would be fine and I could wait until I was happy that the weather was right for the next leg of my passage to Santubong still about 90 nm away. Diesel was a bit of a problem as there was nothing easily available on the island, but the skipper of the fishing boat agreed to sell me 20 litres and came aboard with a big jerry can to siphon it into Speedwell’s tank. Wonderful!

I was able to get a reasonable internet signal for my phone and the weather forecast showed a good west wind on Thursday – 2 days away. Getting ashore to go shopping was my next objective. The newly rebuilt harbour is not designed with small dinghies in mind and it was quite a scramble to get ashore after being helpfully shown the only possible spot in a rocky corner. Helping hands secured us safely and promised to keep an eye on things. Really friendly, helpful people.

It was about 2km to the village where there is a small market and I was looking forward to the walk and getting some exercise. Of course, walking here is not the normal thing. Almost as unheard of as walking in a place like Los Angeles. Only difference is here everyone goes by moped rather than car. All along the way passing bikes stopped to offer me a ride, but I explained that I wanted to walk jalan jalan kaki and after the obligatory chat they let me go my lunatic way. The surroundings were lushly tropical with small, often wooden houses along the way. Each small village has a mosque. I was the only traveller on foot.

I took a side turn and found myself walking along a concrete causeway heading out over the lagoon. Stilt houses all along both sides. Many small shops and restaurants. Friendly comments all the way. Before heading back I was able to buy a big bag of fresh stuff at a very good little market. I took a side road to get back to the harbour and there was less bike traffic and ride offers. When I reached the harbour entrance I was given two freshly picked green drinking coconuts to take back to the boat. Bokkom the dinghy was still safe and again helping hands were there when needed to see us safely away. What a wonderful place.

Early on Thursday I set off on the way to Santubong, wishing that I could have stayed longer at Serasan, but I had already cleared out of Indonesia and needed to be on my way before the change of season.

Tags: Belitung, Serasan
September 14th, 2022  |  Posted in Cruising, Indonesia  |  4 Comments »

On to Belitung

Author: Shirlz

August 2022

The passage from Bawean to Belitung was rather a mixed bag. We had to cover a distance of 380 nautical miles with no possible places to stop en route which, at best, would take about 4 days (and nights, of course).

Getting some sleep was going to be a problem for me as a single-hander. The Karimata Strait between Borneo and Java is a very busy shipping lane with a lethal mixture of massive, fast-moving tankers and container ships, slow-moving barges, confused fleets of fishing boats and anything else that floats. I hadn’t been able to stock up with Red Bull or even Coke and would have to rely on strong espresso to keep me awake.

Four days would be pushing it. But, of course, it’s always possible to get the odd forty winks and I have become accustomed to sleeping in 20 minute snatches when necessary. So I set off optimistically.

The first two days went well with an easy following wind and we covered nearly 100 nautical miles each day which is brilliant for Speedwell. There was plenty of traffic, as expected, but it was avoided easily enough, although the constant, irritating alarm from the AIS was annoying. I had set it to go off if anything was expected to pass closer than 10nm. This was obviously ridiculous and I changed the settings so that it would only shriek at me for anything that might pass closer than 2 nm. A definite improvement.

After two perfect days the wind decided to get playful and for the rest of the passage we had a contrary light NE wind. The sea was still relatively smooth and we kept moving along at a fairly steady 1.5 to 2 knots with the occasional couple of hours motoring when all progress stalled. On one slow occasion I had a companionable visit from three friendly dolphins. Now and then a big bright fishing boat would come up close to get a look at us.

At last, after 6 days and nights we were sailing slowly along the North coast of Belitung Island having rounded the large area to the east, which was scattered with small rocky islands and shallows, at a safe distance. A large fleet of fishing boats was working near the anchorage and I held my position until the sun was up so that I could enter the bay in good light.

The anchorage off Tanjung Kelayang is famous for it’s magnificent granite rock outcrops which are surrounded by coral patches and there are many coral heads in the bay, so caution was required. I had planned my approach and anchoring spot using the Offline Maps app and motored carefully in. Just as I was about to drop the anchor in about 5 meters on a sandy bottom in the easiest recommended place, a local boat approached and signalled for me to follow him. I wasn’t all that keen, but followed obediently for a while, anxiously looking over the side at the bommie-scattered bottom. I realized that he was showing me to another of the recommended anchoring sites, closer inshore. It is snugly situated between two big reefs with smaller patches of coral at either end. I decided that in my almost hallucinatory state after so little sleep for so many days, the complexity of the situation was beyond my current capabilities and I gave him a wave and did an about turn to retrace my track back to where I had first planned to stop. I hope that the man understood my position.

Muzzi and Rob on Lalamanzi were anchored in a different area between some boulder islands and sent me a welcoming WhatsApp message. I grabbed a blissful two solid hours of sleep and then joined them for lunch ashore. As the day progressed I realized that the place I had chosen was exposed to the swell that seems to roll in every afternoon. Lalamanzi’s anchorage was better sheltered, but just too far away from the beach for me to be able to row myself ashore.

The next day I raised the anchor and carefully manoeuvred Speedwell into the gap in the reefs that I had previously chickened out of. It is still a bit rolly in the afternoons, but at low tide the sheltering reefs make it perfectly comfortable and it is within easy rowing distance of the beach.

The fine white sand stretches the length of the bay and there are big outdoor restaurant areas dotted all the way along. Popular with visitors from Jakarta, I was told. Many colourful boats are moored in the shallow water close to the beach and in the evenings the fishing fleet goes out at sunset for a long hard working night.

The main ‘tourist attraction’ is the fantastic collection of rocky outcrops. I have been able to paddle my kayak in and around them in the early mornings before the wind picks up and they are quite stupendous. The surrounding water is crystal clear and I float either over beautiful coral patches or snow white sand overlooked by the towering rocks. A very big turtle almost always makes an appearance as he patrols his territory. I would love to just float around in this area on my kayak all day, but it’s quite a long way downwind of Speedwell and I have to keep an eye on the conditions before it becomes just too much of a battle to get back.

My plan is to clear out of Indonesia from Tanjung Pandan, which is the main town on the island and an official Port of Entry. A few days ago I went in to town to have a look at the harbour and do some shopping. There is a very good fresh market and an excellent supermarket and I found the crowded harbour totally fascinating. The tide was very low as it was full moon and the hundreds of brightly coloured fishing boats tied to the docks were mainly sitting in the mud. I was thinking of anchoring in the harbour to be closer to the Immigration and Customs offices. It looked as though it would be possible but I wasn’t sure where I would be able to get ashore in my little dinghy. Something to think about.

Wednesday, 17^th August was a public holiday – a celebration of Indonesia’s independence from the Dutch who dominated trade in the area from the 17^th century onwards and occupation by the Japanese at the end of World War II. The red and white of the national flag was in evidence all along the beach and my friends Muzzi and Rob joined me for lunch on Speedwell.

August 19th, 2022  |  Posted in Cruising, Indonesia  |  4 Comments »