Sailing Down to Kudat
Author: Shirlz
March 2024
While I was anchored in the shelter of Maraoit Island close to Araceli, on the NW corner of Dumaran Island, a very strong NE wind arrived, as forecast by Windy. Sustained windspeed of about 25 knots with gusts well in excess of 35. These are possibly low estimates as I don’t have wind instruments to measure the actual strength. The normally empty bay was filled with 17 big commercial fishing vessels, also sheltering from the blow. It lasted for 4 long days and nights, often strengthening after dark.
I had 70m of chain out, anchored in 4m on sand. It was quite reassuring to see the big boats lined up astern of me in deeper water. I felt that if I were to drag, there might be someone there able to lend a hand. This was especially true at night, when their bright lights were a real comfort.
At last, the wind eased off. I waited another day for the seas outside to calm down and then set off to sail directly to Puerto Princesa, a distance of just over 100nm. It would have been good to make overnight stops at Roxas and the Verdes Islands, but in both cases, I found myself approaching the anchorages only after dark. The distances apart being just a bit too much for Speedwell to manage in daylight hours. I was enjoying the gentle sailing conditions and was quite happy to just keep on going. There was very little other traffic, and I had the AIS turned on just in case there might be some big ships about.
I was sailing 3 miles off shore, and as I made the turn towards the entrance to Puerto Princesa, the wind died completely. OK. Engine on. After about 20 minutes of motoring, we had wind again, but now it was just a bit too strong and meant a dead downwind, flying entry into the bay. Surfing down some big waves. All quite exciting. I found a safe spot to anchor at the Fishport and felt like I had just come home.
It was good to get ashore and stroll along the Bay Walk and pick up some fresh mangoes and bananas at the old market.
Now the plan was to sail back down to Borneo, where I hoped to leave Speedwell safely for a couple of months at the Duck Pond in Kudat while I flew to the UK to visit friends and relations and then on to South Arica to get my passport renewed.
I moved further up the bay and anchored within easy rowing distance of the Abanico Yacht Club. It would be a more convenient place to clear out from as they were happy to provide dinghy transport out to Speedwell for the Customs official. All went smoothly, and after doing some shopping for provisions, I set off on the 200 nautical mile trip back to Kudat.
March is when the monsoon winds start to change from NE to SW so there was no time to waste. As soon as all the official clearing out procedures were done, I started out early next morning and almost immediately came to an embarrassing stop on a coral head close to where I had been anchored. Luckily I was able to reverse off and vowed to be more careful in future. Speedwell was slipping smoothly through the water as I had had the hull properly cleaned while I was at the Yacht Club. What a difference! There was a big swell running and I had to motor sail, dead to windward, to get out of the bay at Puerto Princesa, but once I could turn to the SW we had a really lovely sail to a comfortable overnight anchorage behind Malanao Island. I had spent a few days here nearly a year ago, while I waited for a good wind on my way north.
I had thought of simply making a non-stop passage direct to Kudat. The moon was nearly full, and it would have been cooler sailing at night. But, this might be my last chance to do some sailing for quite a few months, so I chose to take it slowly, enjoying overnight stops along the way.
It was a short sail to the next anchorage behind Rasa Island with its sand banks and bamboo fish traps. Another very comfortable spot.
I had a good night’s sleep and was on the way again at first light. My next stop was in Crawford Cove. Another anchorage that I had used on the passage north. The only thing was that now the wind was blowing a bit more strongly from the NE, and the little bay was not protected from the swell that rolled in. I was glad to get away again in the morning and had a magnificent, fast sail on to Moore’s Point. Here, I found a much more comfortable spot, in 3.5m over sand, protected by the long commercial wharf. There was some swell, but it was much easier than at Crawford Cove.
I decided to spend a day there going ashore the next morning. There is a good beach for landing the dinghy and it was not a long walk to town. I headed directly for the open market as I was running out of bananas.
The market at Moore’s Point is situated close to the water on the windswept coastline. It was quite a spectacular scene, with awnings flapping in the strong breeze and brilliant sunshine. I wandered about enjoying the friendly activity and the displays of vegetables, fruit, dried fish, meat, chickens, handmade machetes, and so much more. I ended up buying more than just bananas. Heavily laden with fresh supplies, I made a quick stop at a big supermarket on the way back and invested in a bottle of the very drinkable Ginebra S.Miguel, so much cheaper than in Kudat.
And so, on to Iglesias Point, which should provide fair shelter from the NE. We had another wonderful sail, with the wind on the aft quarter and my old junk sail, and even older Navik windvane, both proving that they are still totally capable of handling these conditions. When I had stopped here on the way up, there had been 3 big sand barges anchored just where I had hoped to stop, but now there was only one, leaving plenty of room for me, close in to a sheltered corner. The wind was quite strong, but there was no swell, and it was a very good place to be. This would be my last anchorage on the big island of Palawan.
I set off as soon as the sun was up next morning, heading for an anchorage near the northern end of Balabac Island. I did not want to try to find shelter in Calandorang Bay where the main town is, as the wind and swell would be going straight in. A better anchorage had been recommended behind Candaraman Island just a short way north, and this was what I was aiming for. Unfortunately, the wind had eased off quite a bit, and as the day progressed, I realized that we were not going to make it before dark, even with help from the engine, which I was very reluctant to use. I searched the chart for something within reach and found what looked like a great spot behind a small island called Byan. It was 10nm closer, and we would easily get there before sundown. There was a clear channel through some reef, which showed up clearly on the satellite image. I lowered two panels and gybed to turn in. The anchorage was absolutely beautiful and I was really glad that we had been forced to stop there.
As the tide went down, a sandbar was revealed to starboard. It was still a safe distance away, and I watched as some local boats arrived to fish and forage in the shallows while I enjoyed my sundowner. No complaints!
Next day, an early start as usual, heading for Clarendon Bay in the Southern corner of Balabac. It was another great day for a sail, and we raced along, dead downwind. I had to gybe to turn in to the bay and reefed right down as we needed to be careful to avoid the dense fields of seaweed farms. Fortunately, I had saved the track I made when coming in here last year and had no problem finding the same place to anchor that I had used then. Two other boats that I recognised from Abanico Yacht Club came in soon after. There was plenty of room for all. It had been a hot day, with my rather inadequate awning in the cockpit not providing much shade, but I had to be content with a shower from the garden sprayer to cool off as there are dire warnings about crocodiles in this bay.
We were off again in the morning heading for Balambangan Island, where I planned to spend the weekend before heading to Kudat to clear in. The day started out gently, but the breeze freshened in the afternoon and the last few miles had us racing along under just the top three panels. At one point, I was absolutely thrilled when a school of about 10 dolphins decided to come and say hello. They leapt and circled around us for quite a while before speeding off ahead. They were the first I had seen for months.
I found a good anchorage quite far inside the bay, sheltered from the NE and close to a lovely beach.
Saturday was spent tidying up the boat and replacing the burner on my Primus stove. The old one had lasted more than 2 years, but had started burning with a very sooty flame which no amount of ‘pricking’ could cure. I dug out a replacement from my bag of ancient spares, and all was well again. I rustled up a batch of banana muffins for afternoon tea.
On Sunday morning I was busy down below, when I heard the sound of heavy raindrops on deck. I dashed outside to set up my rain-catching gear as we hadn’t had any rain for months. As I picked up one of the buckets, I saw to my horror that there was a striped sea krait curled up inside. I had the presence of mind to quickly tip it back into the sea. It must have managed to climb up the rudder somehow. It was only a small one, but still unwelcome aboard. It rained for a short while, and I actually managed to get enough water to do the washing up. Much nicer than using salty seawater, which I had been reduced to doing lately. Just as I finished packing everything away, I noticed that determined snake again, now boldly attempting to slide right into the cockpit. It was actually a bit bigger than I had thought, a very pretty creature, but no! Fortunately, my trusty umbrella was furled up and within easy reach. I was able to lift the snake on the ferrule and toss it back overboard. I watched as it swam swiftly away. I hope it got the message this time. Kraits have a reputation for not giving up easily.
Too soon, it was time for the last leg of my trip down to Kudat. Balambangan is a beautiful place to anchor and I was reluctant to leave. But on we go! There was very little wind to start with and we motored until clear of the reefs and the wind started to fill in, then it was a really wonderful sail all the way to an anchorage deep in the Kudat bay opposite a stilted water village. As we made our approach a beautiful snowy egret landed gracefully on the pushpit. What a welcome! The wind was a breezy NE and the anchorage was nicely protected.
Getting ashore the next morning, to clear in involved a fairly tricky ladder up to a new wooden dock which is still under construction. But all went well and I am now officially in Malaysia.
April 3rd, 2024 at 13:48
I will miss reading your posts while you are on land. Enjoy visiting friends and family in the UK and South Africa.
April 12th, 2024 at 21:56
I look forward to your writing and photographs every month thanks so much I hope you have a great trip back to the UK to see your friends and family.