Back to Gili Gede
Author: Shirlz
October 2021
As soon as all the paperwork was done I had to leave Benoa to make room for a big ship that was expected to arrive that evening. I moved a few miles north to Serangan which is a better anchorage for yachts. It was another narrow entrance through the reef, but pretty straightforward and well marked. I found a comfortable place to anchor for the night. I was anxious to leave the next day as it would be neap tides and I hoped the vicious current would be more manageable. Another ‘final’ document was kindly delivered to the boat by Adi who had given me such good advice for crossing the Badung Strait.
I started out at 0600 with just enough light to see my way safely out of the crowded bay. I had been able to get some extra diesel before leaving Benoa and I expected to have to do some motoring. I had been advised to stay close-in until I reached the big landmark hotel at Sanur. The current which had helped us south on the way to Benoa was now slowing us down to just over 2 knots. Over 50 miles to go, but at least we weren’t going backwards.
When we got abeam of the hotel I edged further out and soon realized that I’d have to carry on in the shallower water for as long as possible to maximise our chances of getting across the strait. I had the full sail up but, as usual in the early morning, there was no wind to help my hard-working 13HP diesel engine. On we chugged. Waves crashing against the reefs to port and choppy, disturbed water and whirling eddies showing the current in the deeper water to starboard. Hand-steering was the only way to proceed. For a short while we actually enjoyed a counter-current which gave us a little push northward. I really fancied a caffeine fix but couldn’t leave the tiller. In desperation, I dashed below and brought my emergency camping stove into the cockpit and managed to brew up a much needed espresso.
When we reached Padang Bai, the port that the ferry to Lembar leaves from, I started to move out and head across the strait. Just about then, the wind came up quite strongly from the east. Dead on the nose. Great. I fell off a little to fill the sail which meant we were now about 30° off course. But motoring dead to windward in a choppy sea was not an option. The day wore on. It was becoming obvious that there was no way that we would get to Gili Gede before dark. The Lembar ferry shuttled back and forth on a nearly parallel track. It was becoming a familiar sight.
When we eventually reached the traffic separation scheme it was pitch dark and the moon had not yet come up. We were plugging along at 1.5 knots, but at least the wind had dropped and it was a bit more comfortable. The ferry passed again and this time gave me a quick salute by flashing all its cabin lights! At least with a fairly steady wind, the Navik is able to hold the course quite well when motor-sailing. At about 0200 we at last reached shallower water and the current was much easier. I had no intention of negotiating the approach to Marina del Ray in the dark. A number of unlit small islands and pearl farms cluttering the channels. Normally I would have been able to heave-to and snatch a bit of sleep, but the current was still strong enough to make that impossible. Instead I was able to balance our forward progress against the current and almost stay in one place, at least we no longer needed the noisy engine. Back to hand-steering.
At last at about 0500 I reckoned it was time to start the final approach. Still dark, but if the sun came up as scheduled it would be light by the time we reached the tricky bits. But the fun wasn’t quite over yet. As we were sailing along a very bright light suddenly flashed close by. What was that?! There’s another one! As I peered carefully into the blackness I could make out quite a lot of what looked like sticks all around. When the next light flashed, I realised it was the fleet of outrigger boats fishing in the bay. Well, at least they kept me awake. No way to avoid them, but Speedwell was well lit and I added another bright light in the cockpit, held my course, and trusted them to miss me.
By the time Marina del Ray came in sight the sun was well up and I thankfully anchored in the same spot as before at 0900. No sleep for 27 hours. I went below and started making up the deficit.
By lunchtime I had recovered enough to row ashore and enjoy a much-needed shower followed by a short stroll along a coastal path and a sinful G&T at the marina bar. Brilliant!
October 17th, 2021 at 21:59
Boy! It all sounds rather traumatic. Time to relax and go for a steady habit of G&T at sundown!