Back to the Bay of Islands
Author: Shirlz
January/February, 2021
I was reluctant to leave Great Barrier Island as I had really enjoyed being there. The magnificent scenery and unspoilt countryside. The remoteness. One of the few places I could imagine living out my dotage.
But time was passing and I had to be on my way. No news yet re the extension of my visa, so uncertainty reigns.
My reason for leaving Great Barrier was really to be in Whangarei for the launch of Annie Hill’s new boat FanShi. She has spent 5 years building it and it is a stunning achievement. Junk-rigged of course, so there would be a faithful contingent of ‘junkies’ there to watch the splash. The weather was kind, the boat floated on her waterlines and Annie popped the required bottle of fizz to consecrate the vessel, in great style.
Later there was a celebratory gathering on Le Canard Bleu, Paul Thompson’s more spacious boat. Next day 5 junks took off down-river in slow formation, the wind being extremely light. I followed later after fixing a problem with Speedwell’s engine, and joined them in Parua Bay for a few days, before starting up the coast to the Bay of Islands.
I made a short stop at Tutukaka and this time went ashore to do the walk to the lighthouse, which was quite spectacular and busy with weekend hikers. I was able to get some pictures of the entrance which can be quite thrilling to negotiate under sail. Now the water was calm and it was hard to imagine the crashing waves on either side that I’d experienced on my first visit.
The next day I sailed further up the coast to the wonderfully sheltered Whangaruru Harbour where Annie had holed up so that she could make some necessary adjustments to the set of FanShi’s sail in the calm water to be found there. It was my first visit and it was a chance to get the kayak inflated and to a bit of exploring. The water was on the murky side, but I paddled happily around the mangroves. A flock of fairy terns were making spectacular dives on their unfortunate prey despite the less than clear water. Three days later I was ready to leave and a convenient southerly wind gave me a speedy ride as far as Cape Brett at which point I had to turn into the wind to approach the Bay of Islands and struggled for 5 hours to beat in for the last 10 miles. I made it to the nearest convenient sheltered anchorage just before sunset, thanks to an hour of motor sailing. Hard on the wind in a rough sea is not Speedwell’s best point of sail. It was still blowing strongly, but tucked snugly into the passage between Moturua and Motukiekie islands it was reasonably sheltered for the night. Next morning it poured with rain and I was quite happy to stay exactly where I was and watched as more hardy souls ventured out into the nasty, blustery weather.
Soon enough the sun came out again and the next day I had a delightful sail across the bay to the Te Puna inlet. It was a Sunday and a swarm of Moths were racing around the buoys at breathtaking speeds, virtually airborne on their ‘stilts’. I plodded stolidly on, trusting that they were capable of avoiding me. It reminded me very vividly of the International Moth Regatta I’d attended with Dale in Bermuda a few years ago.
There was an ideal place to anchor near a small beach in a spot called Patunui Bay. The water was invitingly clear and I had a quick swim to freshen up. Now I had a chance to contact Karin and Richard who I had met in 2009 when we were moored at San Isidro, near Buenos Aires. They had sailed from New Zealand on their gaff-rigged boat Isis, taking the southerly route and through the Beagle Channel. Now, after many adventures, they are land-based and settled near to the Kerikeri Basin.
I waited for a rising tide and picked my way carefully up the winding channel to Kerikeri. As I neared the basin, I spotted Richard and Karin rowing towards where their current boat, Escapology, is moored, tucked in to a bend in the river. They helped me tie up Speedwell alongside their boat and whisked me away for a quick tour of their very wonderful riverside property. The next day Richard helped me move across the river and tie up between two posts. An absolutely perfect spot with a great view of the historic Stone Store and easy access ashore via a floating dinghy dock complete with fresh water tap. It doesn’t get much better.
