Maragojipe
Author: Shirlz
Friday, 10 February 2012
I picked up the new hearing aids last Friday and they are wonderful. It’s very much easier now to understand what people are saying and I was surprised to realise how much Sinbad has to say for himself. I can listen to music again. Very happy.
Tuesday, 14 February 2012
Yesterday Ron came with me to Bom Despache. I did a major shop and paid for a taxi back. Just waiting for the right weather to leave now. A few boats will be heading up to Maragojipe for carnival. I might go along. Still feeling a bit washed out from my cold.
Friday, 17 February 2012
I sailed up to Maragojipe yesterday. So lovely coming up the river again. Only two other boats here when I arrived. My cold is lingering frustratingly on. I spend a few hours each day refurbishing my wooden oars. Much prefer them to the aluminium ones especially in a fresh breeze.
Tuesday, 21 February 2012
Carnival has been happening noisily on shore and I have stayed aboard. With my new hearing aids I can hear the music quite well and my cold refuses to admit defeat.
On Saturday I went shopping for kerosene and after much wandering about the crowded winding streets and asking in every likely looking shop, someone at last gave me decent directions and wrote down the name of the place to find. When I eventually found it I wasn’t surprised that it had been so difficult. No name or sign displayed outside and a run down sort of warehouse near the red bridge. It didn’t look very promising but they had kero. And only R$6 per litre. I bought 5l. While I was waiting for them to fill a jerry can for me I watched the donkeys outside tethered to a post on the corner. Basket panniers. Quietly standing waiting. Crowds of people. Not many cars. Once I had my precious kero safely stowed in my backpack I crossed the road to the fishmarket and bought a nice looking plump red fish to share with Sinbad for dinner. I waited while it was cleaned and trimmed of head, tail and fins.
I rambled slowly back to the dock. The town colourfully decorated for the carnival. Massive trio electrico trucks in strategic places. I wasn’t sure when the action was due to start.
Back at the boat the rain that had been threatening started rattling down. That night, despite the deluge the party began. A bright searchlight raking the sky. Thumping drums. I was tempted to go ashore, but the long row in wind and rain put me off.
About 10 I was in bed. Later I was woken by a powerful thud on the boat. Went out to investigate and the massive French catamaran that had anchored too close had swung over with the tide and was right on top of me. I had to fend it off as it slowly moved right around me to the other side, wrapped around my chain. Miraculously not damaging the Navik or solar panel. I shouted to try to wake up the owners who were still fast asleep. Eventually he appeared on deck. I couldn’t hear anything without my ears but, in any case, he only spoke confused French. I suggested that he get some fenders out as I could no longer hold the boats apart. Soon Madame also emerged and got busy with the fenders. Sinbad jumped across to explore the interesting big boat. Monsieur started the engine and managed to reverse off, unwinding from Speedwell. They moved well clear and put out a stern anchor to prevent it from happening again. A cup of coffee and back to sleep.
The Spanish boat with Juan and Jane had arrived and next morning I went over to have coffee with them. Jane has put her back out and can’t walk. So no carnival for them. They went back to Itaparica early on Monday morning.
Wednesday, 22 February 2012
Well the carnival seems to be over. I ventured ashore today to dump my garbage and stretch my legs. The place was making an effort to pull itself together after 5 days and nights of wild revelry. Only grocery stores and banks were open so no Internet opportunity. The place is growing on me. It takes a bit of getting used to with it’s rather rough attitude. But there is friendliness and gentle consideration under all the bluster.
The ferryboat captain takes care of my dinghy when I leave it tied to the dock to go into town, moving it and re-tying it as necessary when the local boats come crowding in. I took an empty jerry can with me to take further advantage of the kerosene supply that I had discovered. When I arrived at the ramshackle shop they remembered me and were happy to oblige. While I waited I enjoyed watching a donkey standing in the sun and rubbing its jaw for a good scratch against the post that it was tethered to on the pavement outside. An old blind man wearing dark glasses, leaned contentedly against the counter being looked after by a skinny dreadlocked friend who made sure that his beer glass was kept full. Some dogs scratched and yawned. A scraggly old woman tried to strike up a conversation but I struggled to understand. I felt strangely at ease with this motley crew.
Back outside, the street teemed with a crazily varied mixture of humanity. A carefree carnival spirit still seemed to linger in the aftermath. Many donkeys heavily loaded with stuff. Some, beautifully cared for with fancy decorated bridles. Pedestrians stroll in the middle of the narrow cobbled streets casually moving aside for the odd car or motorcycle.
Monday, 27 February 2012
Still no useful southerly wind in the forecast.
I returned to Itaparica to take advantage of the easier Internet access and fill up with water again. All the usual boats were still there.
On the way back there, sailing very slowly down the river I had noticed some enormous jelly fish cruising about. Mmmm.. Not so sure about swimming now.
Tags: Bahia, cruising, Todos os Santos
May 16th, 2012 at 23:45
hi shirley,
been thinking about you and so checked you wonderful log. love pictures especially of sinbad with his paw hanging over the hatchway; and “restless” of course. thank you for those as i had no good photos of me sailing my boat till you sent me those. and the blue jelly fish is brilliant. things going well in suriname. nice and quiet. cheers ron.