Maraú
Author: Shirlz
Wednesday, 25 May 2011
I left Barcelos early yesterday morning heading upriver to Maraú. Only 6 nm and I had the tide to help me until 9 am so I made an early start. It looked as though the rain might hold off long enough for us to get there. I was able to sail for a short while until a bend in the river took us directly to windward. Well the battery needed charging after all those cloudy, rainy days. Being out on the river in the early morning was wonderful. A few canoas were about, fishing or being paddled along. Their day starts early.
Soon we were in uncharted waters which made me feel quite adventurous but keeping to the middle of the river ensured plenty of water. Landmarks described in the helpful guidebook written by Hélio Magalhães were easily recognisable and the given waypoints were accurate. Coming round the final bend, the view opened up to show mountains in the distance and a small town on the hillside next to the river with a bright red church perched at the top. Two local boats anchored close to a jetty with a floating dock. The water was quite deep and I settled into a spot within easy rowing distance of the wharf.
I rowed ashore later and explored the town. It took a long time to find the fresh water spring which was well concealed down some back streets. The promised showers looked abandoned with missing taps and shower-heads and a floor inches deep in leaves and debris. I crossed that one off my list. Had more luck finding Internet access. A good free wifi zone outside the big red church and an efficient cyber café nearby. Also found an ATM that accepted international credit cards.
Sunday, 29 May 2011
Big excitement in the town on Saturday for the weekly fresh produce market. Preparations started on Friday evening with people setting up stalls and boats arriving with sacks of fruit and vegetables. By 6 am on Saturday morning the market place was bustling. I was anchored close enough to be able to watch the proceedings and had been tipped off that I needed to do my shopping early to get the best choice.
At about 6:30 I rowed ashore and found a place to tie the dinghy at the crowded dock. I had hoped to buy some Pitú for dinner but there didn’t seem to be any on offer so settled for some nice looking small fish to share with Sinbad. The vegetables looked fresh and locally grown – which meant that the selection was a bit limited. Plantains, sweet potatoes, onions, cabbage, okra, tomatoes. I haven’t seen broccoli since I was in Rio. Filled up my shopping bag with as much healthy looking stuff as I could manage. It seemed to be very cheap. Back to the boat for breakfast.
Tuesday, 31 May 2011
Motored over to the other side of the river where a red ketch belonging to Jentz and Blanca is moored. I had been invited to have a look at their place and have tea with them. They have been there for some time after many years of cruising and have carved out a little paradise from the surrounding jungle. The dwelling place is roofed – half clay tiles, half palm frond thatch on thick wooden posts – but the walls only reach to about waist height so the cooling breeze can waft through. All the wood came from trees that they cut down when clearing the site. They showed me the pretty stream which supplies their water. Beautifully arranged with stepping stones and a plunge pool in the cool shade. Beyond the clearing, wildlife is abundant and I was thrilled by their description of a giant boa constrictor which had paid them a visit in the early days of their occupation. Silky smooth to the touch, it had sadly been killed by their workers.
Sunday, 5 June 2011
I took a bundle of dirty clothes and a bucket ashore and used the spring that I’d found a few days ago to do my laundry. Standing in the stream with my skirt tucked up, a shady tree spreading overhead. Much nicer than a noisy coin-operated laundrette. Some workmen arrived with measuring tape and notebook. It looks as though they are planning to fix up the showers. The water carries quite a lot of sand down with it and later when the washing was dry it had to be shaken out. Towels especially.
Spent the rest of the day repairing my old clock. The battery had leaked all over and corroded the contacts. Cleaned it up and wedged in a new battery with a bit of metal and duct tape. The clock started ticking again so I went all the way and polished it up on the outside as well. It looks rather good now.
Yesterday I hauled the dinghy up on deck as I need to put a patch on the bottom. All the dragging about ashore has ripped a hole in the fibreglass and the raw plywood has been exposed. I need to fix it before it gets worse. So no getting ashore until it’s finished.