Jacaré
Thursday, April 5th, 2012
Monday, 2 April 2012
Sinbad keeping watch on the foredeck
Being tied to a marina dock is very different to my usual situation anchored a fair distance away from everyone. Sinbad totally approves and I have to admit that it does have certain advantages. Having a proper shower every day is definitely one of them. No luxuries here..there is only cold water, but after a typical hot and sweaty day, cold is what I want. Four small frogs also appreciate the cool, wet environment of the shower cubicle and gave me a bit of a start the first time they started hopping about when I turned the spray on. Now we have learnt to amicably share the showery delights.
Wildlife next to the road to Intermares
The boat next to me belongs to a retired couple who only come down at weekends, usually bringing friends and family for a Sunday sail. A Portuguese and a Scottish boat across the way are the only other foreign boats in this marina which seems more designed for local motor boats than cruising yachts. A short walk away, Phillipe’s marina attracts most of the French boats that arrive here plus a few Swiss and Germans. It’s a place to get a cold beer in the evening and meet other boat people.
A scattering of boats on the river
For most it is their first time in Brazil, having either arrived from Cape Town via St Helena as part of a circumnavigation, or from Cape Verde after starting out from Europe. Most plan to head north from here to visit the Caribbean and this will be their only experience of Brazil.
A bit further up the river Brian Stevens is still building boats and helping to solve any number of problems for cruisers, but no longer provides showers, moorings, etc.
Like new again
I spent a few days last week refurbishing the dinghy. I found a can of red paint in the bilge which needed to be used before it rusted through, so now Bokkom has a new colour scheme and looks rather smart.
Every afternoon from about 4 till sunset crowds of people arrive from the nearby city of João Pessoa for a happy hour at one or other of the riverside bars.
Arriving for the sunset show
Big double-decker house-boats with room for dancing also make their way to Jacaré loaded with fun-seekers to watch the sunset and listen to ‘Jurandy do Sax’ play Ravel’s Bolero, dressed in flowing white robes, standing in a canoa being paddled slowly up and down the river, saxophone glinting in the low sun. The climax of the music perfectly timed to coincide with the last rays of the sunset. Have a look at http://jurandydosax.com.br
After sunset the music really picks up and at weekends Jacaré comes reverberatingly alive with competing dance bands raving on till sunrise. Those with more sensitive hearing have been known to move downriver and take refuge in quieter anchorages behind Ilha Restinga till Monday morning. Which is a quiet time of gentle recovery after the rigours of the weekend.
