Trying for the Rajang Delta
Author: Shirlz
October, 2022
If I have been anchored in one spot for more than a week or two I normally get in the water to check that the prop is clean and not a useless lump of barnacles before moving on, but due to all the croc warnings it seemed sensible to rather make a stop at Satang Besar, a small island only 10nm away, where it was supposed to be safe to swim. There was no wind and I would have to use the engine to leave. Over the past few months it had intermittently been making a strange growling noise when I tried to put it in gear. I dreaded the demise of my gearbox but it always seemed to sort itself out after a few careful tries. Now I started the engine, leaving it in neutral while I went forward to raise the anchor. Back in the cockpit I carefully engaged the gear lever and we started to move. All fine. But NO! Suddenly the growling noise erupted with a vengeance. I tried disengaging the gears and going into reverse, neutral, forward, tactics which had worked before. Suddenly the gear lever lost all connection with the transmission and flopped lifelessly from side to side. I hastily killed the engine and re-anchored. It looked as if we would be staying a bit longer.
No resident mechanics here. I would have to have a shot at sorting it out myself. I checked the control cables and all seemed fine. As in any small boat, connections to the engine are difficult to reach and 34° heat with 90% humidity was not making it any easier. It was cooler in the cockpit and I decided to take off the gear lever and start from that end. It came away quite easily with the removal of a central screw and the problem was immediately apparent. The lever connects to the controls via friction to a cone. Over the 20 years since the engine was installed I have never once attempted to clean this arrangement, having no idea that it was necessary. Now the entire cavity behind the lever and around the cone was filled with grit and dusty gunge. This was obviously interfering with the action. I cleaned it out carefully with a wire-brush and an old toothbrush and screwed it back together. Problem solved! No more growly grumbling.

We still had time to get to Satang Besar before dark so we set off once again. This time I would be anchoring on the opposite side of the island to when I had used it as a night stop on my way in. It is the more recommended spot and is opposite a lovely sand spit and beach where the turtles come to lay their eggs. The Nature Conservation people have a house there and take care of the eggs. I anchored in 8m in mud, an easy row to the beach.

Next morning I rowed ashore, interested in finding out more about the turtles. The conservation houses were shut and there seemed to be no one around. I walked along the beach and met up with a group of men under the shade of a big tree. It seemed there was nothing happening turtle-wise. Oh well. It would have been fun to see the baby turtles making their way to the sea. I was lucky to have watched the egg-laying process and later baby turtles scrambling sea-wards when I was at Ascension Island in the Atlantic all those years ago.

I carried on walking along the beach and sand spit. There were some alarmingly big (monitor?) lizard tracks in the sand. Back on Speedwell I had a refreshing swim and took the opportunity of checking the prop. It was still clean except for some easily removed slime.

I stayed another night and left early the next morning to head for the next anchorage at Pulau Lakei about 20 nautical miles further on. It turned out to be quite a spectacular spot with rugged cliffs along the coast. I dropped anchor on the southern side of the island in about 5 meters on a muddy bottom. I was able to row around to a small beach where there is a nature conservation building. All closed up.

Well-maintained wooden steps led to a burial site near the top and another interesting path through the jungle. I spotted a beautiful butterfly and a very unusual flower. The path ended at a lookout with a view over the South China Sea.


The next day I carefully negotiated the narrow rock-strewn channel between the island and the mainland to try out the other anchorage on the Eastern side. This had to be done at low tide so that the rocks were visible. It turned out to be rather an uncomfortable spot as the tidal currents seem to swirl around the small island and meet up in this area creating a roiling cauldron of confused water. I didn’t fancy launching my light little dinghy in that lot.
I was quite relieved to get away the next morning and start the trip across to the entrance to the Rajang River. All went well for a few hours until the tide turned. Soon the boat speed dropped to about 1.5 knots and the best angle we could manage was perpendicular to our course. I battled on for 2 days struggling against the varying strong tidal currents and an unrelenting headwind. I considered anchoring in the shallow water and waiting out the adverse tides but then the wind really picked up and the seas were getting on the rough side. The sleep deficit was starting to wear me down as well. Much against my normal principles, I decided to turn around and head back to the shelter of Santubong. After 48 hours I had only made 25 miles progress towards my destination.
With the wind behind us we were soon approaching the entrance to Santubong. But now it was nearly nightfall and it had started to pour with rain. I hove-to for the night about 10 miles off. In the morning we set off again, still in very heavy rain with limited visibility. Suddenly out of the gloom I saw a tug approaching from Santubong, towing an enormous barge. It passed fairly close by to starboard. No relaxing here!

What a relief to be safely back at the familiar anchorage. A chance to regroup and possibly re-plan the next move.