Speedwell of Hong Kong

A Bad Day for Bokkom

Author: Shirlz

At the weekend the normally peaceful bay of Puerto Lindo gets ripped apart by a busy stream of ‘lanchas’ taking day-trippers out to a small island at the entrance to the bay where there are some beach bars and a strip of white sand. The boats take about 20 passengers at a time and seem to only know one speed: flat out. They are very solidly built fiberglass boats and their powerful outboards send them crashing over the chop creating a fearsome wake. It seems to be a point of honour to pass as close as they dare to the anchored yachts. Some actually going out of their way to do this at speed, to give the passengers a thrill, I suppose. It creates havoc in the anchorage but one learns to put up with it as the weekend is over soon enough.

A typical lancha (Not the one that did the damage)

However, Panama recently celebrated a spate of public holidays and there was a 4-day long weekend. Unprecedented hordes descended on the bay and the stream of lanchas, racing fully laden to the island, was continuous. Speed was now of the utmost in order to accommodate and profit by as many day-trippers as possible.

On Friday, the first day of the holiday weekend, I was sitting in the cockpit as the sun sank lower in the sky, grateful that the busy day was nearly over, when two lanchas on the return trip from the island, approached from astern.  Obviously a race was in progress.  As they approached one tried to overtake the other and at the last moment realized that Speedwell was in the way. When going fast the bows of these boats lift up so high that it’s impossible for the person steering the boat to see what lies directly ahead. Not a good thing in a busy anchorage when you are moving at something like 20 knots.   For a horrible moment I thought he was going to crash into Speedwell. At the last split-second he swerved sufficiently to avoid us but smashed into my beautiful plywood dinghy, Bokkom, which was hanging off the stern. The dinghy was nearly wrecked.

Look what happened

I shouted at them and the driver slowed down and looked back, aware of what had just happened, then sped off without stopping. I had no time to get the name of the boat or take a photo.

I struggled to haul the remains of my dinghy aboard before it could sink entirely. It was too heavy for me as what was left of it was filled with water. Erwin, from a neighbouring boat cane over in his kayak and helped me get it up on board.

Fortunately the thin fiberglass outer skin had held the broken pieces together and no bits were actually missing. For the next two days the rain held off sufficiently for me to fit the pieces together again like a jigsaw puzzle. I used Gorilla tape to hold things in place while I glued it up with a West system epoxy and microfiber mixture. I smoothed off the surface and put a complete layer of glass over the stern and along the seams where they had been cracked. I had to hang on carefully to everything each time a boat roared past threatening to tip the lot overboard. Two of the more responsible lancha drivers came over to speak to me and I think something must have been said to the others as I have noticed that they seem to have slowed down a little until they are past the anchored boats.

Patching things up

Heavy rain showers slowed things down over the next few days, but at last I’ve been able to cover the scars with a coat of paint and it’s usable again.  I was very grateful to have the inflatable kayak which had been given to me by a generous Australian while I was in Chaguaramas back in 2014. Getting ashore was still possible.

Awful scars

I always carry a supply of epoxy and some fiberglass so was able to get the job done quickly. I just hope that I haven’t added too much extra weight to the dinghy as up to now I have always been able to haul it up on board by hand over the lifelines.

November 12th, 2017  |  Posted in Cruising, Panama, Western Caribbean  |  4 Comments »

Shopping and waiting

Author: Shirlz

I spent a few more weeks in San Blas, reluctant to leave the lovely, thinly populated cruising grounds.

Kuna sailors

During my stay in the Naguargandap Cays I met Joyce and Lorenzo on their big blue shrimp boat, the ‘Eileen Farrell’. They were planning one of their regular shopping trips to Panama City and agreed to let me join them. I had read about the possibility of taking a jeep trip from Cartí through the jungle and was keen to experience it.

Speedwell was safely anchored in a sheltered spot near the small island of Saludupored and as we had weathered two strong (35-40 knot) blows, I felt that the anchor must be well and truly dug in. Joyce had arranged for a water taxi to pick us up at 6:30 am for the roughly 20 mile trip to Carti on the mainland. The weather was  good and we got there in 2 hours making one or two stops along the way to pick up more passengers from the scattering of tiny islands.

Carti

The jetty at Carti was quite busy with backpacker tourists arriving by road to be taken out by taxi boat to spend a few days in paradise. This is the only road connecting Guna Yala to Panama City and ‘civilization’. Cartí is not really a village, just a drop-off and pick-uo point for tourists and traders. There is a good place to have a bite to eat and I sampled my first ‘patecone’ which is a delicious fried plantain snack.

Lorenzo supervising the loading

Soon our ‘jeep’ arrived and I was a little disappointed to find that it was not the rattly,  open sort of vehicle that I had expected, but a luxurious, air-conditioned SUV. Well, it made for a comfortable ride for the long trip through the truly magnificent jungle along a roller-coaster winding road. Again, slight disappointment that it was not the rutted, muddy track described in my obviously out-of-date guide book, but a newly tarred road in good condition. We shared the vehicle with two well-travelled Canadian girls. The jeep drivers offer a great service and we were dropped off right at the entrance to our hotel in the city.

Four days of shopping and sightseeing ensued. I took a day off from the malls and supermarkets to walk around Casco Viejo which is the old part of the city that had been ruined by pirate raids hundreds of years ago. It was a rainy day so the photo-opportunities were limited but the Panama Canal museum provided an interesting place to shelter for a few hours.

Rainy day in Casco Viejo

Back on Speedwell it was a good feeling to be properly stocked up again with all my food lockers filled to the brim. The fairly regular visits from the ‘veggie boat’ would keep me supplied with fresh stuff. I felt I could stay indefinitely. But back to reality…

I planned to visit my son, Pete, and his family during December and for this I, as a lowly South African passport holder, needed a visa. So back we sailed to Puerto Lindo on a moonlit night, narrowly missing the spooky black conical silhouette of the enormous Open Blue fish farm along the way. I needed to get to a place with more reliable internet access to complete the online visa application form. Once this had been painstakingly achieved,  a quick bus trip to the city to have my fingerprints taken and the whole lot, including my precious passport,  sent off to Bogotá where the there is an embassy that actually processes visa applications. Now I resignedly await the outcome and hopeful return of my documents.

Puerto Lindo anchorage

Puerto Lindo is a relaxed little place to be waiting. Just a very small village (actually called Garrote) with one or two tiny ‘tiendas’ selling the barest basics. A happy pig keeps cool by wallowing in one of the small streams that run down from the hillside. Blissfully unaware of his ultimate destiny. Chickens range freely. A veggie truck comes by most days and announces it’s arrival over a megaphone which I, of course, never actually hear. So if I need stuff I row ashore to Casa X, a popular yottie hangout, and nurse a fruit juice until it appears. If I have already missed it it can usually be found further along the way.

It’s Saturday today and usually a good day for the truck but Puerto Lindo, 25km down the only access road, is celebrating the annual ‘Black Christ‘ pilgrimage. Folk walk or sometimes crawl on all fours from Sabanitas,  a distance of 22 miles, hoping for whatever miracle their particular circumstances require. Criminals traditionally take part hoping to atone for their misbehaviour. The town assumes a festive air with many food stalls springing up to feed the masses. It all seems suggestive of the sort of thing that might happen on Discworld.

Well, anyway the upshot was that Puerto Lindo was totally cut off for two days. So no veggie truck or buses and a peaceful day-tripper-free weekend.

October 25th, 2017  |  Posted in Cruising, Panama  |  No Comments »

From Island to Island

Author: Shirlz

After a few days anchored off the bustling little village of Nargana I decided to have a look at Green Island, about 5 miles away. It had been recommended to me as a good place to stop, the only reservation being that a few months ago a woman had been attacked by a crocodile while swimming there. I had passed nearby when I sailed from the Holandes Cays to Rio Diablo and noticed two or three boats anchored.

I set off from Nargana in a gentle SW breeze and was just able to lay the course ambling along at 1 to 2 knots. I didn’t have far to go and it was a pleasant sunny day. Some big dolphins came over to inspect us but soon got bored and sped off again. As I got nearer to Green Island I saw that there were no other boats there. I was to have the beautiful anchorage all to myself (and possibly a crocodile). The light was good and it was an easy sail through the gap in the reef. I dropped the anchor in 8m fairly close to the island still thrilled by the fact that I could arrive in a wonderful anchorage like this and not find it crowded with moorings and other boats. Absolute bliss. I determinedly turned a blind eye to the intrusive, ever-present plastic garbage that collects on the shores of these tiny islands and focussed instead on the constellation of bright orange and red starfish that decorated the white sandy bottom.

Green Island

I inflated the kayak and made a circumnavigation of the island. The water along the NW shore was only just deep enough to keep us afloat. Large areas are covered with turtle grass gently waving with the movement of the water but I have yet to spot any turtles. Of course, I was also keeping a sharp lookout for that resident croc, not sure if I wanted to see it or not. How did a croc feel about an inflatable kayak in 6 inches of water?

My water maker in action

The next few days were rainy with frequent strong thunderstorms and I was able to fill all the water-tanks and extra bottles. I was joined by Joana , a beautiful 72ft gaff rigged yawl taking some time off between charters.

Joana

Soon it was time to get moving again and I headed off to anchor in the lee of Saludupored at the Eastern end of the Naguargandup Cays, all of 3 miles away. This time I chose to use the engine as all the cloudy days had left the battery in a rather depressed state and there was virtually no wind. It was a slightly winding passage through the surrounding reefs but the waypoints supplied by Eric Bauhaus in his Panama Cruising Guide helped us safely in.

Another perfect little island

I found myself in the most picturesque setting yet. Clear water, comfortable swinging room for anchoring between the reefs and shoals, and a string of picture-postcard islets. Palm trees and small white beaches. Today the sky was blue, things were getting better and better. I kayaked over to the nearest island, exploring the reefs along the way, and was entranced to see a big spotted ray flapping gently along close by. I found a perfect place to tether the kayak to an overhanging small coconut tree and lay down, floating comfortably in the shade while I gazed at a few bees buzzing about the small flowers of the coconut palm. Vague memories passed through my mind of another life when my natural habitat had been behind a computer screen in a grey office.

Looking back towards Green Island

Back on Speedwell for afternoon tea I realized that I was down to my last can of beer. Definitely time to restock. I had to wait out a few rainy, stormy days and used up some overripe bananas making cake and a rather good chutney. While the weather was still sunny I had also experimented with finely slicing and drying some bananas in the sun. This worked surprisingly well producing a sweet, chewy snack after two or three days.

A fisherman in his ulu

As soon as the weather settled again I moved back to Nargana and was pleased to find a tienda with a good supply of fresh fruit and vegetables and eggs. Unfortunately no beer. There was a crowd of schoolkids near the jetty as a big sports gathering was in progress. My arrival in a rowing dinghy was an interesting event for them. Not too many rowing boats around here. I politely declined their offers to help me when I reached the dock and they all clapped when I got myself ashore unassisted! So much for my preference of keeping a low profile.

Rio Azucar waterfront

Next day was flat calm again and I motored over to nearby Rio Azucar where there is another small Kuna village which might have a beer shop. It turned out to be a very pleasant place with helpful people. They had cold beers and I also bought some freshly baked rolls. Still no butter. In the afternoon I paddled the kayak a short way up the Rio Azucar past magnificent mangrove trees, but turned back fairly soon as the wind started to pick up and it was a hard bouncy paddle back against the breeze. I decided to stay another day and as there was fairly good internet access, a chance to update the blog.

Poling through shallow water

There is a fairly steady stream of small boats and ulus coming in to the island and using the convenient dock where there is water on tap. I watched as a launch carefully poled itself over the shallow reef, were they taking a well-known shortcut or had they misjudged things? As the sun was setting an ulu came in with a rather raggedy sail. Paddle power was also being used. This morning there was a big old tug boat that steamed in and parked close up against the shore. I was glad that I had decided to stay another day as the weather was squally with darkly threatening clouds.

Raggedy sail – Rio Azucar

August 25th, 2017  |  Posted in Cruising, Panama, San Blas  |  2 Comments »

Off to the San Blas Archipelago

Author: Shirlz

I moved back to Puerto Lindo to fill up with diesel before starting my cruise in San Blas. After an abortive attempt at anchoring close to the marina I returned to my spot at the head of the bay near the tiny village of Garrote. It was an easy row to the good dinghy dock at Casa X and much less crowded. Unfortunately, also open to the swell rolling in from the NE.  Apart from the diesel, I realized I also needed to stock up with more essential provisions and made two bus trips through to the big supermarket in Sabanitas. An hour each way on the colourful,  jam-packed bus, severely limited by how much I can carry in my backpack and two big shopping bags. Not just by the weight, but also the difficulty of handling the bulky bags in the bus with standing room only. I still enjoyed the bus rides,  especially when I was able to get a seat. The people were warm and caring and the countryside is so beautifully lush and green and uncontrolled.

Once I’d stocked up all I had to do was wait for a day with a possibility of some westerly wind. At last there was a favourable forecast before my provisions ran out again and I headed hopefully out of the bay under power until I was clear of other boats,  rocks and reefy bits. Then I was able to sail almost all the way. I left in the afternoon planning to sail through the night and arrive in the morning with good light to approach my first anchorage. As luck would have it the current hustled us along and we were at the entrance to the San Blas channel at about 3 am in the pitch dark. I hove-to, waiting for sunrise, and was able to have a short nap.

The beach at Chichime

I decided to make Chichime my first stop as the entry was straightforward and close by. I had been warned that it could get crowded as it is popular with the backpacker charter boats. But it seemed that I had arrived at an off-peak time and there were only three or four other boats and plenty of room in the exquisite bay.

Looking out over the reef

What a pleasure to anchor in crystal clear water, well protected from the swell by surrounding reefs which didn’t block the cooling breeze. No mosquitoes or no-seeums. Things were looking good.

My mola

After a few hours sleep I was woken by someone calling and I met my first ‘Master Mola Maker’ who had paddled quietly up in his dugout canoe or ulu.  He displayed a magnificent collection of his work. All extremely finely hand stitched in intricate designs. My rather strict budget put most of it way out of my league but he had some more modest samples and I eventually settled for a cushion – sized piece that I am delighted with.

Starfish on my doorstep

My ‘overnight’ stop expanded to 3 idyllic days, reveling in the great snorkeling and beautiful surroundings. Of course, this is the rainy season and thunderstorms were plentiful so no shortage of water and I caught up with the laundry. More and more boats were arriving and I felt it was time to be moving on.

My next stop was just 3 miles further on at Banedup. Boats were clustered around the main island where there were some beach bars. It looked a bit crowded but there was another really good place to anchor where I could have more swinging room. This time I left the dinghy on deck as I was happy just to swim ashore. From the cockpit I could see colourful starfish on the sandy bottom.

On day two a fierce squall blasted the anchorage causing mayhem with the boats crowded near the island. Some re-anchored and a few left after things had calmed down again. Thankfully these squalls don’t last too long.

Palm Island seen from Banedup

As soon as the wind turned west again a day or two later, I headed off to the Holandes Cays about 11 miles away. Again I was lucky with the weather and had a lovely sail, the junk rig doing what it does best on a downwind run, sometimes cheating a bit and seeing how much I could get away with sailing by the lee. The Navik doesn’t approve of this tactic and it needs hand-steering.

I had carefully entered some waypoints in my Garmin Etrex which would get me safely into the Swimming Pool anchorage.  The light was good and it was easy to see the reefs and shallows.

BBQ Island seen from my anchorage

I found myself in the sort of place that epitomizes everyone’s dream of tropical cruising. There were very few other boats and not a mooring ball in sight. I got the awning rigged over the cockpit for some shade and settled in. The next two weeks were spent just enjoying it all. There was no need for the dinghy and I used my inflatable kayak to paddle out to the reefs for hours of snorkeling or just exploring.

There were regular visits by the Kuna Indians in their ulus,  sometimes selling lobster or fish, Other times just to chat and show their astonishment at the fact that I was sailing single-handed. A woman! One morning a group of lady Kunas came over and insisted on giving me a gift of limes and plantains.

But soon enough my meager supplies started to get low and I decided to make a shopping trip to Nargana at Rio Diablo where I should be able to do some basic shopping. I was all ready to leave early one morning and it was time to start the engine to see me safely out of the anchorage. Oh dear, instead of the normal noisy startup,  just a click. OK, I’d had this before and it was just a loose connection,  so I switched off and checked things out. Everything seemed fine. Try again. Nothing. The starter motor had been replaced not too long ago when I was in North Carolina,  surely it couldn’t already have problems. Before doing anything drastic I went over to one of the other boats who were long – term residents, to seek advice.  After I’d described the problem it was suggested that it could just be the solenoid sticking and all it might need was a tap to free it. Jim came over and showed me what to do and problem solved. What a relief,  and a new skill acquired.

By now it was getting a bit late to leave so I put it off till the next day and then had a reasonably good sail to Rio Diablo,  only having to motor for the last few miles when the wind died completely. The anchorage is very well protected and I went ashore to find the shops. No big supermarkets here but a scattering of small ‘tiendas’ with just the most basic of wares. No chance of replenishing my supply of Earl Grey. I did manage to find some flour so I’ll be able to carry on making bread. No butter though.

Tech and tradition

The little village is made up of a fairly dense collection of small reed huts with thatched or corrugated iron roofs. Sandy paths between. A shady footbridge connects the two islands and is a pleasantly cool place to linger and watch the world go by. Although this is one of the more ‘advanced’ villages,  many of the women wear the traditional molas and their legs are decorated from knee to ankle with strings of fine beads wound round and round forming patterns.

Rio Diablo

On day two I went for a long row up the river. The entrance is very shallow and littered with big logs that have drifted down but once inside it was deeper and quite magical. I spotted a heron which was new to me and now and then a kingfisher flew purposefully by. I looked in vain for crocodiles.   An enormous blue morpho butterfly flapped by, contrasting brilliantly against the dark green foliage.  I passed two small graveyards tucked in behind the trees close to the river and a bit further up an ulu would be drawn up to the bank here and there where the coconut trees or bananas were being tended.

August 11th, 2017  |  Posted in Cruising, San Blas, Western Caribbean  |  2 Comments »

Portobelo

Author: Shirlz

Portobelo, the name conjures up romantic images of its historic past. Staggering amounts of gold and silver were carried here from what have now become Peru and Bolivia and shipped off to Spain. Slaves were traded, famous-name pirates like Francis Drake and Henry Morgan attacked the town and helped themselves to the treasure. In the customs house there was barely room to stack the tons of silver.

Inside the customs house

Small forts tried in vain to protect the bay and its treasure with their cannons. At one time a third of all the gold in the world passed through here.

The view from one of the forts

Now it is a rather shabbily run down little town, but the forts are still there, or what is left of them after being raided for stone to help build the Panama Canal, the customs house is partially restored and is splendid, the same jungle-clad hills look down on the bay. No pirate ships now, but it’s a popular anchorage for cruising boats. Rather a lot of which look as if this could be their final resting place. When a late hurricane passed nearby in November last year many of the boats dragged their anchors and some still remain stuck in the mud near the mangroves.

The entrance to the bay

I arrived after a short motor-sail from Puerto Lindo, the current against us all the way. There were only a handful of boats anchored and I easily found a convenient spot. Casa Vela is a small bar on the water’s edge which allows you to use their dinghy dock for $1 per day or a beer at the bar. There are a number of well-stocked small supermarkets which also sell hardware. For more serious shopping a bus leaves every 20 minutes for Colon, stopping in Sabanitas, about an hour along the road, where there is an ATM and a big ‘Rey’ supermarket. This is also the place to catch an express bus through to Panama City.

Panama City skyscrapers and the Pacific Ocean

I had to make use of this bus for a trip through to the city in connection with my banking problem which still drags on. The bus stops at at an enormous ‘Gran Terminal’ where long-distance buses run to hundreds of destinations. Very exciting to think that you can just get on a bus and tour the country. There are also metro-buses for getting about in the city. I had to get to the DHL office in the Bella Vista district and it turned out to be a beautiful part of the city with parks and luxury hotels right near the waterfront. I wandered about a bit and was thrilled to be able to gaze out over the Pacific Ocean.

Church of San Felipe which houses a famous ‘Black Christ’

I left it rather late to head back to Portobelo and got caught in the rush hour traffic. Standing-room only for most of the journey. The last leg of the trip on a chicken bus from Sabanitas to Portobelo took nearly two hours as there had been two bad accidents along the road which stopped the traffic dead. We were entertained en route with loud music videos on the bus’s flat screen display while strings of coloured LED lights flashed under a religious banner. I suppose the bus driver needs all the help he can get.

July 5th, 2017  |  Posted in Cruising, Panama  |  1 Comment »

Puerto Lindo

Author: Shirlz

I had been told that Puerto Lindo was a good place to clear in to Panama so I decided to head directly there and sort out the legalities before turning back and spending some time in the San Blas islands. I also needed to get connected to the internet again so that I could download the OPEN CPN app for my tablet which would make it possible for me to use the digitized Eric Bauhaus charts for navigating this otherwise poorly charted area.

The distance was about 180nm and would take me at least 2 days. Again I had the benefit of a nearly full moon so the night sailing was a pleasure. There was very little wind and with a 1-2 knot current running against us I was forced to do a lot of motoring. About midnight on the second night out, with only about 30 miles to go, I was woken from one of my brief catnaps by a change in the sound of the engine. Oh dear, it was running very irregularly and sounded about to expire. Which it duly did. Without its help it would take days to get in. It had sounded like fuel starvation. The day tank was still half full so I thought it might be a clogged filter. Luckily I had some spares and with the flat calm sea it didn’t take long to change to a new one. Great relief when I turned the key and the engine came back to life. On we chugged.

Lovely Puerto Lindo

We arrived at the entrance to Puerto Lindo at about 8 in the morning and carefully negotiated the entrance. The little bay lives up to its name and really is a lovely place, making it a popular anchorage with the cruising community. Many boats were clustered close behind Isla Linton and near to the new marina. I chose to anchor where it was less crowded near to the little village of Garrote at the head of the bay.

Clearing in involved a visit to the harbour master at Linton Bay Marina who issued the cruising permit which is valid for a year. Then I took the bus through to Portobelo to get my passport stamped by Immigration. Fortunately for me, the expensive visa fee has recently been dropped. The office is in a romantic, partially restored stone building and was quickly done. Now back to the marina to finalize the cruising permit and I was good for 6 months.

A narrow channel through the mangroves

I wanted to make some inquiries about hauling Speedwell out for a new coat of antifouling and some other routine maintenance. There is a small boatyard in a narrow creek near to Puerto Lindo which is accessible by dinghy via a shallow channel through the mangroves. I decided to row around and have a look. I was just setting out when Mick, who was anchored a short way away on his boat ‘Lady Elizabeth’, came over and offered to take me in his dinghy which has an outboard. Off we went. It turned out to be quite a spectacular route with a dense tangle of mangrove roots close on either side and it would have been a long row. I looked in vain for lurking crocodiles. The boatyard, ‘Panamarina’, looked very good and is reasonably priced. A definite possibility.

Apart from its natural beauty there is not much in Puerto Lindo besides a couple of small tiendas and a helpful ‘cruisers’ waterfront bar/restaurant where you can leave the dinghy. In the early mornings and at sunset the jungle-clad hills surrounding the bay reverberate with the roaring of monkeys. Thousands of egrets roost in the trees and there were many pelicans perching messily on nearby derelict, abandoned boats. There is a school with an open Wi-Fi network.

An amazing bus in Sabanitas

Colourful buses run fairly regularly to Colon, it’s an interesting trip, most of the way running very close to the coast along a narrow winding road. A short way before Portobelo a turn-off leads to Nombre de Dios which was the original port that the Spaniards used to load their haul of silver from Potosí in Bolivia, on to ships bound for Spain. To get to Nombre de Dios the silver had to be transported overland using first llamas then mule trains via Panama City. In 1572 Francis Drake destroyed the town and plundered the treasure. Further along the road, past Portobelo, there is a good supermarket and an ATM at Sabanitas, about an hour away on the bus.

Unfortunately while I was there two neighbouring boats were burgled and I was feeling a little vulnerable. On the next fine day I moved on to Portobelo only about 11nm along the coast.

June 26th, 2017  |  Posted in Cruising, Panama  |  No Comments »

Sapzurro

Author: Shirlz

The entrance to the bay of Sapzurro is well marked with lit buoys, nevertheless, I was glad to be arriving before sunset. Reefs extend a long way out from each side of the channel, but by keeping in the middle, I had more than 12m all the way to the anchorage. I was surprised to see 6 or 7 boats ranged along the shoreline, each with a line to a tree to hold their bows into the gentle swell that sometimes works its way in. Only two of the other boats were occupied and the rest looked as though they hadn’t been used for some time. There was hardly any swell when I arrived so I dropped the anchor in 7m and enjoyed a sundowner in the cockpit. Steep hills covered in brilliant green jungle surround the bay. Two big Ringed Kingfishers flew back and forth keeping an eye out for their next meal and making their distinctive chattering cry and a squadron of pelicans skimmed low over the water. I was captivated.

The anchorage

That night the wind picked up a little making the anchorage very rolly and uncomfortable, but my luck was in, one of the boats tied to the shore left early in the morning and I wasted no time in moving in to take their place. This made a wonderful difference and now I was happy to stay for a few days.

Tied to a tree

There was a beautiful little palm-fringed beach for landing the dinghy and it was a short walk to the village along an easy path. There is no overland access to the small village and it is centred around a concrete dock where frequent launches with fast outboards bring backpackers and provide a regular service to the neighbouring towns of Capurgana, Obaldia and the lovely beach at La Miel. A few small ‘tiendas’ for basic supplies and plenty of bars and casual restaurants. Some of the hostels provided hammocks to rent overnight. I had used up all my Colombian pesos, but they were happy to accept dollars in small denominations. A supply boat brings fresh fruit and vegetables on Saturday mornings.

The cruel reef

From the village a path leads around the bay and along the coast to Cabo Tiburon and the border with Panama. It was a lovely tree-lined walk along the water’s edge and I was pleased to discover a fuel dock where I would be able to get diesel. Outside the bay the waves were crashing against the shore. It was low tide and the cruel reality of the reef was partly exposed. Crabs scuttled for cover when they became aware of me. At the cape a steep cliff makes it impossible to go any further and there is a Colombian army post with armed guards in camouflage gear. They were friendly and, as usual, were interested to know where I was from.

End of the road at Cabo Tiburon

My next walk was through the village and over the hill to La Miel which is across the border in Panama. The path is paved most of the way and a long steep flight of concrete steps goes all the way up to a small, palm-thatched border post with two guards. I had to show my passport before being allowed to carry on. One of the guards generously gave me a delicious avocado. Now the steps dropped steeply down to the little village below. It was even smaller than Sapzurro with no sheltered anchorage for yachts. There is a lovely beach and a concrete dock for the supply boat and tourist launches and I had my first contact with Guna Yala officials who have a post there. I had a quick browse through the duty free store and was tempted to buy a bottle of rum as my supplies were running low, but resisted the temptation when I thought of having to carry the extra weight all the back up to the top. I had wrongly supposed that it would be possible to walk all the way to Obaldia, but I was assured that this was not the case.

Fishing boats at La Miel

Another day, another walk, this time to the nearby Colombian village of Capurgana. It is not accessible by road, but a narrow footpath leads through the jungle starting close to the anchorage. After an easy start it soon begins to climb quite steeply up the hill. The path is criss-crossed with exposed tree roots which form a natural staircase and make the rather slippery muddy clay path easy enough to negotiate. In places where the path levelled out, colourful butterflies fluttered ahead of me flying low through the dappled shade, their bright markings flickering like strobe lights. Lizards and iguanas fled panic-stricken out of my way.

A narrow path through the jungle

When I reached the top, the panoramic view over both sides was spectacular and well worth the climb. Workmen were busy constructing a covered pavilion where one will be able to relax and enjoy the view. They were in the process of laying a concrete floor and mixing cement to fill a foundation. I had a short rest and started the walk down the other side.

Looking down on Sapzurro

Soon the path turned into a muddy quagmire where I was forced to struggle, sometimes ankle-deep, through the mud. I was glad to have my bamboo walking stick to help to keep me from slipping right into it. After a short while of battling along, I had to step aside to allow a train of about 20 mules to pass. They were labouring up the hill, each carrying two heavy bags of sand for the building project. Their handlers urged them on with encouraging words. Now I understood how the path had got so churned up. As soon as they were unloaded at the top they began the trip down to fetch the next load. Later I was forced into the bush as a mule train on the way up met one on the way down. It was a jungle traffic jam.

Mule train in the mud

The village of Capurgana is quite a lot bigger than Sapzurro and seems to be more tourist conscious. There were many small hotels and hostels and most places advertised free wifi. I found a place to stop for a cold fruit juice, checked my emails and got a weather forecast. Again there were no cars and mules or donkeys were being used to pull carts. The waterfront was busy with launches coming and going from the public dock. After the gruelling mudslide down I made a snap decision to take a boat back to Sapzurro rather than reverse the trip to get back. When I went down to the dock I was told that there would soon be a boat for me and sure enough after a few minutes one arrived and I was the only passenger for the fast and exciting (and mud-free) ride back. It had been quite a day.

The boat that got me back

June 18th, 2017  |  Posted in Colombia, Cruising  |  1 Comment »

A funny thing happened on the way to Sapzurro

Author: Shirlz

We were motoring in an almost flat calm, doing a steady 4 knots and it looked as though we’d be able to get in before dark. In the hazy distance I thought I spotted an irregularity. Sure enough, through the binoculars, it looked like the superstructure of a big ship still hull down on the horizon. I had a feeling this might cause some delay. We were right on the border between Panama and Colombia and there was likely to be some Navy presence. I held my course and we slowly approached the ship, which was stationary. Just as we passed about a mile off its bow they called on the radio, which I had switched on hoping to get some AIS information about them. They were not transmitting an AIS signal which I found interesting. Of course I couldn’t make any sense of the radio call, but dutifully called back and about 10 minutes of confused, garbled and static-distorted radio talk in broken English/Spanish ensued. At last I was made to understand that they were a Colombian Navy vessel and wanted to board us for an inspection. I put the engine in neutral and six big, armed and uniformed men came alongside in a black inflatable. They were very polite and one spoke a little English. I handed over my papers and one of the men took photos of them with his phone. Another was on the radio relaying my particulars to headquarters.

Colombian Navy Ship

Now one of them must come aboard for the inspection. Big black boots clambered over the lifeline and clomped into the cockpit. Once below, he didn’t seem to know where to start. He unzipped a few of my cushions that are stuffed with winter clothes and just looked around before coming back to the crowded little cockpit. The English-speaker had also come aboard. I was intermittently using the engine to stop us from drifting too far from the mother ship and I noticed that the remaining four in the inflatable, who had not tied up to us, had floated some way off and had taken the cover off their big outboard engine while two of them were using paddles to try to get back to us. Attention was now diverted from the careful scrutiny of my passport and papers. The birth-date on my passport had caused some amazement and disbelief and they felt compelled to confirm it with me. Not only was I a female sailing alone, but an ancient crone to boot.

We motored over to the stricken inflatable and after more futile attempts to start the outboard, I agreed to give them a tow back to the ship as by now we had drifted about half a mile off. I was becoming a little concerned about the unnecessary delay which was putting my careful timing out. Speedwell gamely accepted the extra weight of the tow and we slowly progressed back to the ship. I released them fairly close to the intimidating side of the big ship, a little way short of the bow, and watched as they paddled safely back to the boarding ladder. We had parted on good terms with laughter and handshakes all round.

The boarding party after rescue

I didn’t hang about, but increased the revs and made it in to Sapzurro just before sunset, in the process proving that Speedwell is able to maintain 5 knots under power. Maybe the canal could still be a possibility.

June 16th, 2017  |  Posted in Colombia, Cruising  |  No Comments »

Islands along the way

Author: Shirlz

On 18^th May I left Cartagena heading for the archipelago of Islas del Rosario about 20 miles away. The wind was very light and we had to do some motoring to get in before dark. I anchored off the southern shore of Isla Grande which seemed the better choice as there was a lot of coral on the northern side. The water was cleaner than in Cartagena but nothing spectacular. What wind there was came stubbornly from the south west. It was very light and the anchor was well dug-in in sand. We were in 3m of water with 25m of chain out. It might seem excessive but we were on a lee shore after all. As usual, we were the only boat there. I rigged up the cockpit awning and had a cooling swim, deciding to wait until the next day before going ashore. I checked my tablet but there seemed to be no internet.

I came ashore up a narrow creek

Next day I rowed ashore early in the morning and beached the dinghy up a narrow mangrove creek. There was a shady path leading across to the other side of the island through a scattered collection of houses and ending at a big, almost empty, eco-resort. Very attractive with open thatched palapas and simple cabañas. I had a look at the anchorage but wasn’t tempted to move the boat around. It would have been difficult for me to land the dinghy there as the swell breaks along the shore, regardless of wind direction. About an hour after getting back on board, the wind started to pick up and a nasty swell was making things rather uncomfortable. Soon it was blowing over 30 knots with spindrift off the top of the waves and I let out another 20m of chain. The ‘squall’ lasted all day but thankfully moderated in the evening. It was fortunate that I came back to Speedwell when I did, as I couldn’t have rowed against that wind and without the extra chain it’s very possible that she would have dragged. Just letting out the extra chain was quite a battle as I had to first winch in a few metres to unhook the snubber. Without the snubber the winch alone was unable to hold the chain. It was quite an enlightening experience.

I left the next day heading for Tintinpán, the biggest island in the San Bernardo archipelago, about 25nm away. Now there was hardly any wind and what there was was against us. Add to that a sea that was still unsettled after the previous day’s blow and we were going nowhere. I didn’t want to go back to the uncomfortable Isla Grande anchorage so l motored doggedly on. Thankfully the anchorage at Tintinpán gave much better protection and I spent a relaxing couple of days there enjoying the crystal clear water. I got my snorkel out and was able to do a bit of hull scrubbing. I was pleased to see that it was still looking quite respectable.

There were local fishermen in their dugout canoes casting throw nets as well as faster lanchas travelling between the islands. The main island has luxury holiday homes along the shore and there is a very small islet, absolutely cram-packed with small houses a short way off, where the permanent residents stay. It is reputed to be one of the most densely populated areas in the world. I didn’t go ashore. The Navionics charts show very little detail and all the islands are surrounded by shallow coral reefs.

The chain in 4m of water

Now it was on to Isla San Bernardo, another day-sail away. When I raised the anchor the chain caught around a small coral head. It was easy to see the problem as the water was absolutely clear and I was able to motor slowly around and dislodge it, hopefully without damaging the coral. We passed another small island along the way, Isla Perla, where I had hoped to make a lunch stop, but there was a bit of a breeze which would have made the only possible anchorage on a lee shore once again, so I came up close to have a look but decided to keep going.

Anchored off San Bernardo

A sand spit extends a long way to the south west off the tip of Isla San Bernardo and we rounded it about half a mile off in 4m. The sand spit does a wonderful job of protecting the big bay and we found a very peaceful anchorage in 5m on mud, hooked in behind the island. I could relax for a few days and not worry about sudden wind changes. It goes without saying that we were the only boat there. They say you should be careful what you wish for. This island also has a sprinkling of privately owned palm-thatched holiday houses along the waterfront, which are very well cared for by the local residents who live in more modest establishments among the mangroves. Tourist boats race across from the mainland bringing sightseers and scuba divers to explore the outer reefs. No shops or bars ashore.

A gentle downwind sail

I made a day-trip over to the small town of Berrugas only about 5 miles away across the bay. We had a lovely slow and gentle sail across with the wind just abaft the beam in flat water. What a treat. The approach is shallow from a long way out and we anchored in 3m about a third of a mile off. No sooner had we stopped than a canoe came out to us with 2 men paddling. They were interested to know where I was from and offered to take me ashore in the canoe. I was tempted, as it would save getting the dinghy down, but decided to decline the offer. It looked a bit wobbly and I always have to be careful about keeping my hearing aids dry.

A short while later I rowed ashore and the two who had come out to welcome me helped drag the dinghy up the beach. It was safely tied to a post under a shady awning and I set off to explore the village. Two little boys decided to be my guides to the nearest grocery shop. We walked along a sandy tree-lined main road to the centre of town where there were 3 or 4 small ‘tiendas’. I decided on the biggest one and they were able to sell me two tomatoes, an avocado, 2 mangoes, a carrot, 6 eggs and a bottle of coke for my rum in the evening. The two kids went happily on their way with a bag of chips each. Back at the waterfront I headed for the most promising looking small restaurant where a number of locals were hanging out. It was lunchtime and I had a plate of perfectly cooked fried fish, rice, plantain fritter and salad for the equivalent of less than 3 dollars. I was joined by an old fisherman and a young woman in a uniform. They were interested in the boat and how I managed to sail on my own. We struggled along with my broken Spanish but it was nice to have company for a change.

The supermarket in Berrugas

I returned to the anchorage at San Bernardo and after a few days of its calm uneventfulness I began to think that it might be more exciting to be on the move again. Isla Fuerte, about 35nm away, was the next logical stop. I had managed to download the PassageWeather.com 7-day wind forecast and there were no sudden changes predicted, just more of the same light winds coming from random directions. I’d filled the diesel tanks in Cartagena but had no idea where it would be possible to fill up again, so I had to avoid doing too much motoring. I set off after lunch, prepared to have a slow overnight trip and arrive before sunset the next day.

Isla Fuerte sunrise

Despite my good intentions we ended up motoring most of the way. There was about 1 knot of current against us and almost no wind. We had some respite at night when there was a light warm wind off the land for a few hours. As we neared Isla Fuerte there was a big slow swell rolling in from the North East and I wondered how it would affect the anchorage. I almost decided to bypass the island and just carry on to Portobello where I would be able to clear in to Panama, but we were so close now that I had to go in and take a look. I had some waypoints to get through the reef and they worked very well. Once inside, the water was flat calm and we were in a very pretty little bay. Time for coffee and toast for breakfast.

The fisherman’s beach where I got diesel

Isla Fuerte turned out to be one of the best stops so far. Again we were the only cruising boat there and it was easy to get ashore. There are no cars or roads on the island and it is criss-crossed with cool, shady, tree-lined paths. The only traffic consisted of pedestrians and donkeys with one or two bicycles and the occasional pig. The prepaid data time that I still had on my tablet gave me internet access. It was a short walk to the main village, Puerto Limón and the first thing I did was try to find out if diesel was available. I hadn’t realized that it was Sunday. The locals were relaxing in a plaza near the waterfront. Loud music blaring. Church must be over. They were friendly and welcoming. News travels fast in places like this and the little yellow boat had been spotted. To my happy surprise they could, indeed, sell me some diesel. Back at the boat I emptied the jerry cans into the main tank and rowed around to the fisherman’s beach where the diesel was. No pump of course, but it was siphoned out of a barrel into a bucket and then poured via a funnel into my cans. It looked clean enough and I would filter it before putting it in the main tank.

I spent three days at Isla Fuerte. I had read that there were sloths to be seen in the trees but never managed to spot them. The only sloth I have ever seen was in Domberg, Surinam. It had made the fatal mistake of spreading itself out for a snooze across the live electrical wires above the main street.

Giant trees are a tourist attraction on the island. One, El Tun-tun is fenced off, but the other, El Bongo, is the centrepiece of a small park. It was mango season and they were freely available scattered under many mango trees along the paths. It was wonderful to be in a place which has evolved to accommodate pedestrians rather than motor vehicles. Sometimes the paths were like long green tunnels. The animals: donkeys, pigs, dogs and chickens, seemed healthy and happy just free-ranging and living their lives, as I also try to do. Of course, the animals had their duties – donkeys carried heavy loads, dogs protected their owners and we all know what happens to pigs and chickens. So I’m happy enough with my lot.

A typical Isla Fuerte ‘street’

As I now felt more confident about the diesel situation, I decided to deviate a little from the direct route to Portobello and make a stop in Sapzurro which is right on the border with Panama. I set off early in the morning threading my way carefully back through the reefs. The wind was light but it was possible to lay the course. As darkness approached distant lightning lit up the sky all round. As it came nearer I could see jagged streaks striking the water. Just carry on and hope for the best. It reached us eventually with strong wind and torrential rain. I blessed the junk rig as I quickly reduced sail and turned up into wind to let it pass. No point in allowing the rain to come straight down the companionway. Soon we were on our way again under an almost half-moon.

June 14th, 2017  |  Posted in Colombia, Cruising  |  1 Comment »